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Wing(Vent) window glass bottom track sealant? Hardtop

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bigmanjbmopar

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Any one know what the material to use for the bottom track of the wing window? I have some butyl but seems messy and not right. Couple of pics, one of them from the charger site shows he was able to get the whole piece out and it seems molded. I can see a bit of an edge on the top of it in my broken pieces. Anyone know what this gasket is and can it be found or what do restorers use that works and looks right?

4FzfMyb.jpg


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Go to any glass shop,the material comes in a roll,cut it to length,press the frame on to the glass and trim excess,easy job.
 
Glass setting channel.
 
What Restoration Specialties has may work depending on you channel width,you would still be better off going to a glass shop,they know and have what is correct.What you need is on a roll,actually looks like rubberized flexible tape and you don't have to guess on size.
 
62MAX is on it. There are different thickness tape, or setting. You'll need to go to an 'old school' glass shop. The Safelite down the street is probably not going to have it. I did a Dart years ago and found some locally, kept some extra for later.

Find a thickness that is snug and gently tap the channel on with a mallet and trim with a razor.

Urethane will make a mess and there's no way to center the glass.
 
You need the 1/16" thick glass setting tape. There was another thread on here dealing with this same issue.
 
I'll get the stuff next weekend, the channel stuff that is shaped looks like it will be close and I got 2 ft of it just in case, I tried the 1/4" thick butyl stuff I got from my neighbor and it was a huge mess, tried to stretch it out so it would form and seat just right but what a mess it made definitely not the right stuff to use on this. the old gasket looked fitted the more I look at it which surprises me there are none being repopped. as a last resort I thought about using the caulking stuff I bought with the idea it could be formed after the glass is set in and excess cleaned off thinking it would look stock if the thickness was right when applying it.

I'll let everyone know how it goes when the stuff shows up, I definitely prefer the fitted stuff and think I got the right size but will know more when it gets here.

Now to decide on the scratches on marks on the chrome..... replace? leave? its not pitted and the only scratches they have are not down to metal. overall not bad for driver quality but after a brand new paint job do you just replace all the trim or???
 
bigmanjbmopar said:
I'll get the stuff next weekend, the channel stuff that is shaped looks like it will be close and I got 2 ft of it just in case, I tried the 1/4" thick butyl stuff I got from my neighbor and it was a huge mess, tried to stretch it out so it would form and seat just right but what a mess it made definitely not the right stuff to use on this. the old gasket looked fitted the more I look at it which surprises me there are none being repopped. as a last resort I thought about using the caulking stuff I bought with the idea it could be formed after the glass is set in and excess cleaned off thinking it would look stock if the thickness was right when applying it.

I'll let everyone know how it goes when the stuff shows up, I definitely prefer the fitted stuff and think I got the right size but will know more when it gets here.

Now to decide on the scratches on marks on the chrome..... replace? leave? its not pitted and the only scratches they have are not down to metal. overall not bad for driver quality but after a brand new paint job do you just replace all the trim or???
Click to expand...


Not actually necessary to re pop something that can be bought locally at most glass suppliers.
 
Steele Rubber Products - Search Results

Here is the one you want. PN: 70-2170-57. There are other sources. I got mine from a local auto glass shop. I have been told that not all glass shops have it but any that work with our old cars should have it. Get the right stuff. You will be happy you did.
 
bigmanjbmopar said:
Now to decide on the scratches on marks on the chrome..... replace? leave? its not pitted and the only scratches they have are not down to metal. overall not bad for driver quality but after a brand new paint job do you just replace all the trim or???
Click to expand...

if you're talking about the stainless trim, you can {almost} not kill it. just gotta buff it out sucka!! lol

put up some pics and let's see how bad it is. I just did the stainless on my Newport-and it wasn't great lemme tell ya-but with patience and time, it shined up like a diamond in a goats' ***.

from this...

DSC06977.JPG


to this...

DSC07063.JPG


When I can see the camera in the shine when I take a picture, I figure it's good enough for who it's for. :rolleyes:
 
What he has is chrome plated pot metal,not going to buff out.
 
I think you will find he is referring to the vent window frame !



/ quote. Now to decide on the scratches on marks on the chrome..... replace? leave? its not pitted and the only scratches they have are not down to metal. overall not bad for driver quality but after a brand new paint job do you just replace all the trim or??? /quote
 
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