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Winter Storage?

skyman51

Well-Known Member
Local time
2:58 AM
Joined
Apr 8, 2011
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Location
Conshohocken, PA
I am fortunate to have a heated garage for my car. I keep the temp at 45 degrees and I try and start the car once a week and let it run up to operating temperature. How many of you have to park their ride outside or in a cold damp garage for the winter?
What level do you maintain the anti freeze?
 
I've left my Road Runner in a cold garage every year since.....well, a very long time. The only things I do are:
1. keep a battery tender (trickle charger) on the battery
2. Make sure my antifreeze is at 50/50
3. Change the fuel in my tank in the Spring (I've had bad luck with Stabil)

Here's a link to ethylene glycol freeze protection. 40% antifreeze + 60% water goes down to -10F. 50%/50% goes down to -34F
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethylene-glycol-d_146.html
 
I am fortunate to have a heated garage for my car. I keep the temp at 45 degrees and I try and start the car once a week and let it run up to operating temperature. How many of you have to park their ride outside or in a cold damp garage for the winter?
What level do you maintain the anti freeze?

I keep my cars at around the same temperature. I've read and heard that occasionally starting the engine during storage is NOT good since you are creating water vapor and it doesn't have a chance to evaporate. Any thoughts on this?
 
Water vapor is a product of combustion, no doubt, so if you do not idle long enough to heat the exhaust system above 212F then the water will condense and potentially lead to rust etc. To a lesser extent there is potentially some moisture in the crankcase. But of course you also want to have good ventilation during this period because of the carbon dioxide and nitrous oxides.
 
I keep my cars at around the same temperature. I've read and heard that occasionally starting the engine during storage is NOT good since you are creating water vapor and it doesn't have a chance to evaporate. Any thoughts on this?

I would like to hear more on this. I always thought that by starting it frequently you would get all the moisture out by warming it up to operating temp.
 
It is best not to start it unless you can drive it and warm it all up
If you must fog the motor and replace plug after start up
 
I was told by a engine builder (machinist) to start he car and get it up to operating temperature (20 minutes or so) and then shut it off. The engine temperature will evaporate the moisture to some extent and will allow for the valves to open or close on different cylinders from last start up. The change in temperature outside plays a role on moisture if in an unheated garage and the fluctuations from opening the garage door. I fill my cars up completely and add Stabil 360 to the gas. Put Dry Packs in the engine bay, interior and trunk. I plug the exhaust with steel wool, pull the sun visors down and roll up all the windows. Put my inside car cover on and top that with a water proof outside car cover (my cars are kept in my warehouse and not outside) from California Car Cover in case of a garage roof leak. I try to start them up once a month, but being in a snow belt makes that hard to do.
 
I keep my cars at around the same temperature. I've read and heard that occasionally starting the engine during storage is NOT good since you are creating water vapor and it doesn't have a chance to evaporate. Any thoughts on this?

I've heard the same thing about water. I wait to a day when it is dry and no salt on the road. After warm-up I run car on the freeway for a couple of intersections top up the gas tank and return home.
 
Mine is stored inside , no heat, oil changed and tank topped off. anti freeze & water is 50/50 , Battery is pulled and in my heated shop. I had it running 1st week of Dec. It will be running again in march. So its only down aprox 90 to 100 days.
 
Well it seems that opinions are equally divided. I did get an opinion though that I have not heard before. An engine builder told me to start the motor every couple of months, and to lube the carb. I said what do you mean by lube the carb. He said shoot some oil on the blades so they don't stick from sitting so long. Never heard that one before.
 
He probably meant fogging the motor. Spray some oil or atf into the intake while running then shut off. So the cylinders don't rust. I just put stabil in the tank and wait for a rainstorm to clean the salt off the roads, then go for a short ride. Rest of the time I'm worried about critters building nests in the car.
 
I got tired of that $hit years ago. The older I get, the colder I get.... in more ways than one.
I keep the thermostats set at a nice 60 degrees.


RR_1.jpgDS_1.jpg

RR_1.jpg DS_1.jpg
 
Anyone that needs to "store" their car for the winter is welcomed to drop it off at my house. I will make sure the tires are rotated, oil/filter watched/changed regularly, also check to make the sure grip is working properly. I will do this for no charge!
 
Anyone that needs to "store" their car for the winter is welcomed to drop it off at my house. I will make sure the tires are rotated, oil/filter watched/changed regularly, also check to make the sure grip is working properly. I will do this for no charge!

Spoken like a true Californian.
I love where I live but I hate you guys for several reasons.
:icon_fU::icon_fU::icon_fU::icon_fU:
 
I don't put my car away with long storage in mind, any opportunities to get it out on dry salt free roads are fully taken advantage of!
 
Mine spends the winter in an unheated, but dry building. I top off the tank and add Stabil (I put Stabil in with every fill up anyway), make sure the tires are aired up, and I fog it by pouring some ATF down the carb before I shut it down. I remove the battery and store it in a heated area. It always fires right up in the spring like it was just shut off 5 minutes ago. It smokes a bit for awhile from the fogging, but then clears up and is fine. I've never had a problem in all the years I've been doing this.
 
I don't put my car away with long storage in mind, any opportunities to get it out on dry salt free roads are fully taken advantage of!

This is what I have always done, nothing like cruising in January when it freezing out

I do have a heated and humidity controlled garage and use stability 360 also
 
Mine spends the winter in an unheated, but dry building. I top off the tank and add Stabil (I put Stabil in with every fill up anyway), make sure the tires are aired up, and I fog it by pouring some ATF down the carb before I shut it down. I remove the battery and store it in a heated area. It always fires right up in the spring like it was just shut off 5 minutes ago. It smokes a bit for awhile from the fogging, but then clears up and is fine. I've never had a problem in all the years I've been doing this.

I think that's a great idea for long storage, even your boat manuals say the same about dumping oil in the carb just as your shutting them off.
 
This is what I have always done, nothing like cruising in January when it freezing out

I do have a heated and humidity controlled garage and use stability 360 also

I think the older I get the more **** I get. I never did any of this stuff before. I am just going to drive it when I can and start it every couple of weeks. I have been doing this for years with no problems. I have a heated garage too.
 
The following has been working well for me the past 35 years; I have had my 73 Charger since 1980, My garage is not heated but in the Northeast I keep it on a battery tender, oil is changed every October regardless of miles. I will start the engine every two weeks and let it run in gear. I have the rear end raised off the floor with stands under the axel so the tires will spin, I run it about 35 mph for 20 min. This will keep the seals well worked and tranny working, better than just an idle. I wont start the car if it is been below 30deg. sometimes it sets for 3 weeks during extreme cold. I will jack the front up to rotate the tires. I do all this until about April, then will pull it out of the garage until I drive it more in late April or early May, Massachusetts has winters that last and roads are not clear of pot holes or sand until early May. To get the engine hotter I will cover the front grill radiator with a heavy towel, it cant over heat the air is too cold but it helps with a warm up. I never put anything in the gas tank, and have used Marvel oil for 35 years in the oil changes, all this has worked for me and the car always starts easy very very little oil smoke until the valve seals warm up too. Antifreeze is changed every 7-10 years with the red 7 year type, Original radiator never rust or sediment has been seen in this system. of course over the years all hoses have been changed, water pump, so that is why the antifreeze is always like new. I think it wears out with use, not just age. since I only drive the car 1200 miles a year on average it really never would need changing. Mine is always at -34 deg. when tested every fall.
 
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