No. What you need to do is sand the blasted metal with a red Scotchbrite or 80 grit paper. Normally for epoxy you'd like to scuff the metal with 80 grit to give it some tooth, but the blasting will give it all the tooth you need. The problem with blasted metal is it can trap a lot of dust, silica, glass bead etc. whatever it was blasted with. That's why you can get away with just a Scotchbrite pad.
After it's sanded/scuffed, you'll need to hit it with a wax and grease remover. Don't be cheap, don't skimp on the W&G and
don't use lacquer thinner. Use a spray bottle, wet a section down and wipe it clean with an inexpensive, non print paper towel. Repeat this process until the towel comes up clean. You will use many, many, many towels.
Wear latex gloves and do not touch the metal with your bare hands.
Apply two good coats of epoxy and you you're ready to roll. Do you body filler
over the epoxy, prime with 2K as needed and top with a sealer coat of reduced epoxy and then your topcoat. Of course, I've left out many details, but this is the general drift.
I don't know if you've settled on a brand, but I use SPI epoxy and it's among the best out there. They have a users forum as well where the people there are very helpful.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/
Here's a link to the steps to a perfect paint job.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect paint.htm