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Yup, another fuel gage question......

If you can set ur meter at Rx1 or Rx10, sounds like ur at ohms x 100.
 
Because other fellow says set it for 100?
 
If it’s like all the rest, the R100 means ur multiplying ur number reading by 100. Say the meter shows 0-50 from one side to the other; then if ur needle stops at say 40, then ur reading 40x100=4000ohms. Hope this helps.
 
If it’s like all the rest, the R100 means ur multiplying ur number reading by 100. Say the meter shows 0-50 from one side to the other; then if ur needle stops at say 40, then ur reading 40x100=4000ohms. Hope this helps.
Well....im totally confused by now.... i set meter at R1, tested, and now reads 17 ohms....
 
Well....im totally confused by now.... i set meter at R1, tested, and now reads 17 ohms....
That’s ur real reading. You probably still have a bad sender.
 
If your sender reads 17 ohms you should show between 3/4 and a full tank!

I told you to use a scale that the full sweep of the needle was 100 ohms (and so did Miller)... not a multiplier.
 
If your sender reads 17 ohms you should show between 3/4 and a full tank!

I told you to use a scale that the full sweep of the needle was 100 ohms... not a multiplier.
Sorry man, i have no clue what that means.....my gage barely gets up to empty when key is on
 
Sender,,, you already got full sweep on gauge, so it shud be OK.
 
Yah, but that's what doesn't make sense now that he says he has a 17 ohm reading on the sender. That connected to the sender wire to the gauge that he said grounded full swept the gauge should read about 7/8ths of a tank with 17 ohms.

That Harry Chapin song is in my head again...
 
Any suggestions where to get a good sender?
 
Ain’t possible? Mine reads 1/2 when full. I hate China & everybody else that makes them!
 
Ain’t possible? Mine reads 1/2 when full. I hate China & everybody else that makes them!
So order one from amazon and pray i guess.....seemns to me my first RR back in the stone age, never had this issue. I take it Mopar does not make them any more?
 
You might want to look around- Amazon doesn’t always have the best price going.
 
You might want to look around- Amazon doesn’t always have the best price going.
I suppose......most all parts cggain stores ha ve them, just wanted a good one
 
Is the sender in the tank the stock original unit? If so, unless it's rusted junk, could be fixable.
Sounds like your getting a reading...17 ohms.

Eliminate things! Try this first...test the gauge itself...by pulling the gauge wire off the sending unit. Hook a wire lead, from the end of the gauge wire, to a GOOD ground. Then, turn the key on. The gauge should 'slowly' go to full. Give it time, since it's designed to move slow. If it does not go to full, it's either the gauge itself, or the gauge wire. The wire, if tested from each end, should ohm out at 0, or pretty dang close.
 
Is the sender in the tank the stock original unit? If so, unless it's rusted junk, could be fixable.
Sounds like your getting a reading...17 ohms.

Eliminate things! Try this first...test the gauge itself...by pulling the gauge wire off the sending unit. Hook a wire lead, from the end of the gauge wire, to a GOOD ground. Then, turn the key on. The gauge should 'slowly' go to full. Give it time, since it's designed to move slow. If it does not go to full, it's either the gauge itself, or the gauge wire. The wire, if tested from each end, should ohm out at 0, or pretty dang close.
Yes, that test was completed, gage went to full.
I have no clue if sender is original....
 
Okay.
Next two tests...real simple. Ground check...using your ohm meter 0-100 range...from a good body/frame ground, test to the fuel line itself. Then test the same way, from ground to the sender body itself. Both should read 0, or pretty dang close.

If both check good...yes, it's the sender itself. If so, me?, I'd pull it, and have a look see.
Could be something simple, like a sunk float!
 
Okay.
Next two tests...real simple. Ground check...using your ohm meter 0-100 range...from a good body/frame ground, test to the fuel line itself. Then test the same way, from ground to the sender body itself. Both should read 0, or pretty dang close.

If both check good...yes, it's the sender itself. If so, me?, I'd pull it, and have a look see.
Could be something simple, like a sunk float!
See post #30......looks like i need to search for a sender...
 
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