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ZINC Oil Chart Configurations

62maxx

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Greetings,

here is a helpful chart to consider zinc flat tappet oil (ppm's) for your engine.


Break in oil.jpg
 
VR1 used to have 1300-1400ppm of Zinc, but apparently is now 1100ppm.

In Australia most of the classic car crowd seem to use Penrite HPR-30 which has Zinc at 1600ppm.

From what I've read too much zinc (over 1000ppm) damages catalytic converters, but is there an upper limit for non-cat engines?

Some light reading for those interested https://penriteoil.com.au/assets/tech_pdfs/1Zinc Myths & Legends Nov 2014.pdf
 
I get the zinc properties are important but for me as little as I drive my classic VR1 suits my needs
 
"Too high"? Based on what?

Surely the oil manufacturer/supplier knows more than us?


Based on some reading that 2000ppm is actually detrimental and corrosive to the engine causing pitting.
There are so many differing opinions on this topic its crazy. I really dont think anyone knows truly what is actually best including the manufacturers.
 
From what I gather from oil info overload on the internet is: don't use API SN oil (2010-2020) on flat tappet engines and direct injection engines. API SP (2020-now) was reformulated with different levels of detergents and works better with flat tappet cams.
 
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Here's an interesting video, the cam used in the testing was made by Comp cams to wear faster than normal. Go to minute mark 16:30, they show the cam after testing, Most oils were API SP.
 
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With my older hotrods I just add a pint of Lucas Oil zink additive at each oil change no matter what oil brand I use and no problems no worries, keep it simple guys.
Normally you'd think that would do it but now what I've been seeing is adding any additional additive to a good oil upsets its additive package and actually make the oil much worse. The more I research this oil stuff the more confusing it gets.
 
Normally you'd think that would do it but now what I've been seeing is adding any additional additive to a good oil upsets its additive package and actually make the oil much worse. The more I research this oil stuff the more confusing it gets.
This is exactly why I now use Mobil1 15W-50. Specifically made to use with flat tappet cams, better cold flow than 20W-50, full synthetic, 1300ppm zinc, lower detergents, easily available at walmart for about $6 per quart in the 5 qt container.
 
High-Zinc vs. High-Film Strength (PSI)Based on the 540 RAT rankings, here are the oils that bridge the gap:Oil Brand & WeightFilm Strength (PSI)Zinc (ZDDP) LevelRAT CategoryQuaker State FS 5W-30~133,000+ PSI~800 ppmIncredibleAmsoil Z-Rod 10W-3095,360 PSI~1,400 ppmOutstandingValvoline VR1 (Silver) 10W-30103,505 PSI~1,400 ppmIncredibleMobil 1 15W-5070,235 PSI~1,300 ppmGood/Modest

the film strength is not too good on the Mobil 1
 
Depends on how loose the clearances are. Kim
That, and it provides a thicker oil film at 100°C than a 10/30 or 10/40. The vast majority of my use is only during the hottest months of the year.
 
I just bought some Lucas 20-50 break in oil for a new engine that is being built and it was cheaper than their hot rod classic. Is there any reason you couldn’t run the break in oil full time? It has a higher zinc content than the hot rod classic. Doing the math the savings is about $30 an oil change.
 
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