Jim and I were discussing getting together with you. I really want to see your GTX (actually I don't because I may try to buy it from you).
1968 Coronet 500 Project
- Thread starter JimKueneman
- Start date
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Took the Coronet to the Tucson Dodge dealers Mopar show with Bill B with with his Runner. Beautiful Saturday afternoon. Final drive before I decided it was the water pump puking. The bearing is going and it leaks.....
Wow, I am getting old.... sorry for the repeat of these photos.....
Wow, I am getting old.... sorry for the repeat of these photos.....
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JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Ok found a NOS pump. I can't find an actual 1968 part number pump but I found an overpriced 1969 AC equipped pump. The cross-reference book says it is a replacement for my '68. The parts book says that my pump on my car is NOT for an AC car. Why? I have 2 theories. One is it was replaced once upon a time and they had the non-AC in stock so on it went. The other is that they were not that fussy at the factory and the motor they had on the line was what ever it was and had that pump on it.
So what is the difference between a 1968 non-AC and 1969 AC pump? The impeller. I can't figure this one out. The AC pump has a LESS efficient open impeller while the non-AC has a more efficient semi-open. Also the '68 pump has a cast impeller while the '69 AC has a stamped.... I can't find a mechanical engineer at work that can come up with a theory other than by using the less efficient you saved some horse power on the pump to give it to the AC compressor for a net load change of closer to 0 on the AC car... Likely we will never really know.
The GMB is almost out. It would have been out if I did not have AC, that complicated things a bit..... Wonder how far I can throw it or maybe drive over it with my Civic a few times... The NOS part does not get here till next week
So what is the difference between a 1968 non-AC and 1969 AC pump? The impeller. I can't figure this one out. The AC pump has a LESS efficient open impeller while the non-AC has a more efficient semi-open. Also the '68 pump has a cast impeller while the '69 AC has a stamped.... I can't find a mechanical engineer at work that can come up with a theory other than by using the less efficient you saved some horse power on the pump to give it to the AC compressor for a net load change of closer to 0 on the AC car... Likely we will never really know.
The GMB is almost out. It would have been out if I did not have AC, that complicated things a bit..... Wonder how far I can throw it or maybe drive over it with my Civic a few times... The NOS part does not get here till next week
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JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
What a surprise. I thought my pump was not going to make it till Monday. I got home and the wife said something big and heavy was in her car! Opened the box and a NOS water pump! OH NO, I don't have any Mopar red paint. I call Dave at Precision Machine to see if he has any left from doing my engine. He does so I race to his shop before he closes. I got the old pump off (what a PIA with the 50 lb AC compressor....) and all cleaned up. The new pump is painted and ready for install. I put a bit of lube on the shaft of the new pump to give those old seals a bit of lube for the first time they spin after sitting decades. The gasket is too questionable. It was wadded up in the box for decades and is old technology. I will run to the store and pick up a new Fel-Pro tomorrow. It was a struggle to not use the old one..... photos to follow tomorrow.
I also got my parts to try to dial down the voltage on my fuel pump. This should make it run way quieter an not circulate a full tank of fuel through the hot engine compartment twice every two hours. It will also remove almost 30W of power from the motor that is doing nothing but brewing the gas in the tank.
I also got my parts to try to dial down the voltage on my fuel pump. This should make it run way quieter an not circulate a full tank of fuel through the hot engine compartment twice every two hours. It will also remove almost 30W of power from the motor that is doing nothing but brewing the gas in the tank.
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JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Ok got the NOS pump painted last night and got a new gasket this morning..
There is no comparison to the quality of the OEM part.... Here is the 3 pumps I have. The original (non-AC on an AC car) with the cast impeller, the GMB with the open impeller and more vanes, and the new NOS AC Chrysler pump that is open with fewer vanes.
Notice on the new AC pump the rear bearing is WAY back in the bore. That allows a lot of support for the shaft from rocking. Also look how close the vanes are to the pump face. Not a lot of cavitation there.
The GMB. Notice the housing is tucked WAY back in, causing way more stress on the bearings trying to keep the shaft from rocking. Also look at the HUGE gap between the face and the vanes. I looked to see if it had hit the back of the cam chain cover. That impeller should be pressed on to the shaft a LOT more.
Another shot of the NOS AC pump. The original non-AC pump is similar to this. Lots of support for the bearing/shaft and the vanes are almost touchline the face.
I was concerned about the decades old seal but I lubed it up and so far after a 10 mile drive it is working perfectly.
There is no comparison to the quality of the OEM part.... Here is the 3 pumps I have. The original (non-AC on an AC car) with the cast impeller, the GMB with the open impeller and more vanes, and the new NOS AC Chrysler pump that is open with fewer vanes.
Notice on the new AC pump the rear bearing is WAY back in the bore. That allows a lot of support for the shaft from rocking. Also look how close the vanes are to the pump face. Not a lot of cavitation there.
The GMB. Notice the housing is tucked WAY back in, causing way more stress on the bearings trying to keep the shaft from rocking. Also look at the HUGE gap between the face and the vanes. I looked to see if it had hit the back of the cam chain cover. That impeller should be pressed on to the shaft a LOT more.
Another shot of the NOS AC pump. The original non-AC pump is similar to this. Lots of support for the bearing/shaft and the vanes are almost touchline the face.
I was concerned about the decades old seal but I lubed it up and so far after a 10 mile drive it is working perfectly.
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JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
While I had the front end apart I built a nice bracket for the EFI fuel lines. Nothing fancy just some clamps I had left over and a piece of strap steel.
Lastly I got my demo board for a Linear Technology switching converter switch. I had to make a few changes to get it to work on car battery voltage but now I can dial in a regulator voltage to the fuel pump. Oh what a difference. It is so quiet running it at 8V instead of the 12V-14V off the battery. It is now not circulating 2 tanks of fuel through the engine compartment on a single drive to town. I can dial it down to about 6.5V before it can't hold the pressure at idle so I left it at about 8V I likely could kick it down to 7V if I wanted. The Walbo 255 pulls about 5.8A @ 43lb pressure so now with the regulator in the trunk I am only pulling 2.5A from the battery through the car at 14V on the battery. The total power went from over 82W at the pump to 47W at the pump so I have almost 40W less power cooking the fuel! Need to decide if I am going to productionize it or just use the evaluation board. I did make it so if it failed I can just unplug and bypass it on the side of the road with no tools
Lastly I got my demo board for a Linear Technology switching converter switch. I had to make a few changes to get it to work on car battery voltage but now I can dial in a regulator voltage to the fuel pump. Oh what a difference. It is so quiet running it at 8V instead of the 12V-14V off the battery. It is now not circulating 2 tanks of fuel through the engine compartment on a single drive to town. I can dial it down to about 6.5V before it can't hold the pressure at idle so I left it at about 8V I likely could kick it down to 7V if I wanted. The Walbo 255 pulls about 5.8A @ 43lb pressure so now with the regulator in the trunk I am only pulling 2.5A from the battery through the car at 14V on the battery. The total power went from over 82W at the pump to 47W at the pump so I have almost 40W less power cooking the fuel! Need to decide if I am going to productionize it or just use the evaluation board. I did make it so if it failed I can just unplug and bypass it on the side of the road with no tools
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Hikin Mike
Well-Known Member
I came late to the party...lol! I spent the last two days reading all 48 pages. Very nice! Makes me want to dive into my car now...
Hikin Mike
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Jim, I tried to PM you but your inbox is full.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Makes me WANT your car now
. Fixed the inbox problem.
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JimKueneman
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Glenwood
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Looks like a commercial or poster for the "new" 68 Coronet 500! Nice pics.
JimKueneman
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JimKueneman
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I found a '69 hood nose piece that will screw right in to the '69 hood on my '68.... Is it worth $90 for the bling? Here is what it look like on a '68 500...... It really kills that square grill look....
That would make it look like a 68 with a 69 hood on it. I say leave it the way it is.
Mopartisus
Well-Known Member
This will look better and will let you start a whole new thread Jim
https://albany.craigslist.org/cto/d/1969-dodge-coronet/6230940824.html
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
This will look better and will let you start a whole new thread Jim
https://albany.craigslist.org/cto/d/1969-dodge-coronet/6230940824.html
I hate you, Bill did you look at this....
Mopartisus
Well-Known Member
I love it! This is your next project, Jim. I'll even volunteer to help with the convertible top.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
That is where I grew up. I can find a place to store it for a while if you buy it for me.
I'll buy a few cans of aircraft stripper and store your Coronet in my garage.
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