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Hemi Swap Price Tag?

kb67mopar

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Hey guys,
I've wanted to put a late model 5.7 in my 67 Coronet since I started resto-modding it this past year but have been a bit discouraged by the price tag. That being said, I picked up two 360 cores hoping to do a budget build up on one to get some good HP numbers. I just put together a price list for my build and am looking at a total cost of 2300+ for a mild 360.

It seems to me that I should be able to pick up a late model 03-04 hemi from a car or truck for less than that and put it in the car. Does anybody here have a list of parts they had to buy and how much it cost them total to do the build?

Also what transmissions did you guys use...I am (with no compromise) going with a manual trans, but have yet to pick out which one since my car was factory 3 speed, keeping that is out.

Any input would be greatly appreciated while I try to figure out the best course of action here.
 
Honestly your gonna be in to it for no less 6k and it might go more for stuff you forgot and the little things. But if you are frugal, aka, tight wad, it could come way down but your gonna have to look high and low for the deals.
 
750 2003-2008 5.7 core engine Long block(no intake, valve covers, coils, front cover or accessories) Not a blwn up POS either.
350 rebuild kit rings,brgs, gaskets...
125 ARP rod bolts
65 new-stock replacement head bolts
55 new-stock main bolts
400 milodon oilpan, pick up, windage tray w/gaskets
400 Indy ModMan intake
450 750 cfm carb
450 MSD Hemi6 ignition
175 MSD wiring harness
250 stock 06+ coils
125 stock valve covers
100 various fasteners/hardware
375 Comp cams camshaft
350 springs, locks, retainers etc
150 adjustable timing set/tensioner
150 front cover
100 water pump
250-1250 *accessories Used-new
133 conversion mount brackets
200-750 jeep grand cherokee exhaust manifolds or TTi headers.
400 flywheel for manual trans (must use sb bellhousing and cut 3/4" from input shaft on a-833

$5553 - 7353 depending on how good of a deal you can get on accessories and whether you use exhaust man's or headers.

This will make an engine with about 400 ft lb of TQ and 440-460 Hp with 9.6:1 compression ratio and run just fine on pump gas. Even 89 octane. It will idle well and be pretty drivable... This is for everything you need to get the engine in your car with a manual trans(not including the trans itself) I may be off on some of my prices but I know they are fairly close. There are other strategies, like bying a complete engine and using the factory EFI and ignition controller or springing for a FAST kit to controll all of that.

Its not a swap for the faint of heart or for those who just want to bolt it up with little though involved. Its a challenge that requires alot of homework and planning. But, I think its a cool swap. It's still a bit novel but gaining momentum. Check out our sister site FABO for a ton of threads on this swap. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/forumdisplay.php?f=83

I hope this helps

*250-1250 for accessories depending on whether you find them used or buy new Alternator, a/c compressor, power steering pump, idler pullies etc. Truck and car front covers use different set ups with different alts etc.
 
Yes these are helpful.

I am going to keep it fuel injected if i go this route. i know that seems to scare lots of the older gear heads but I love the reliability and who can beat 20 mpg with 345 hp in stock trim.

I definitely will be going the frugal. aka tight wad route since I just don't have a huge budget and I will have to buy this stuff in stages.

I plan (for now) to run stock manifolds, a stock engine with as few miles on it as i can find, and hopefully already mated to the transmission. (yes I am hoping to go 5 or 6 speed instead of 4 speed). so this will take lots of work and probably floor surgery but should be very unique when i get done.

Anybody else done it with this setup?
 
really no body else has done this?

Anybody try to fit at tremec t-56 in a b body?

I am trying to figure out what is a better choice, the T-56 or A-833 behind a 5.7?
 
really no body else has done this?

Anybody try to fit at tremec t-56 in a b body?

I am trying to figure out what is a better choice, the T-56 or A-833 behind a 5.7?

i don't know what t-56 means, but i have a tremec in my car.:hello2:
 
i don't know what t-56 means, but i have a tremec in my car.:hello2:

What transmission did you put in and how much did the swap cost you? The T-56 is a Tremec trans put in most camaros and mustangs if I remember correctly. I think it might have also been put in the Ram SRT/10...but I am not sure I remember correctly.

With the new hemi swap I'd love a modern 5 speed to help me get 20+ mpg on the highway instead of using the 4 speed. (yes I know the newer 4 speeds are overdrive but I also want it to still feel sporty)
 
I will be following this thread with great interest. I am planning on something like this. The T-56 came in the Viper and the Ram SRT. It was also in F-bodies. I don't remember it being in mustangs unless it was a swap but I could be wrong. I also want to know about using the A-833 as I plan on boosting the car and want LONG gears.
 
I will be following this thread with great interest. I am planning on something like this. The T-56 came in the Viper and the Ram SRT. It was also in F-bodies. I don't remember it being in mustangs unless it was a swap but I could be wrong. I also want to know about using the A-833 as I plan on boosting the car and want LONG gears.

I have been interested in exactly the same two transmissions. I prefer the T-56 for my cruising mpg but may have to settle for the A-833 for cost reasons. That being said i have read you can use the small block bell housing and take 3/4" out of the shaft of the 833...or use the MP parts but that gets spendy.

What I haven't yet found is where you remove that 3/4" from and what clutch parts you would use.

I also like the T-56 for a hydraulic clutch since that would clean things up a bit down there but again...price tag is a bit high. And i think the GM ones have a different input shaft length then the dodge units which may require changing the shaft but I would have to re-read that.
 
I think the Quicktime bellhousing will take care of the shaft length for the a833 trans, but call them to double check that.
 
I have been interested in exactly the same two transmissions. I prefer the T-56 for my cruising mpg but may have to settle for the A-833 for cost reasons. That being said i have read you can use the small block bell housing and take 3/4" out of the shaft of the 833...or use the MP parts but that gets spendy.

What I haven't yet found is where you remove that 3/4" from and what clutch parts you would use.

I also like the T-56 for a hydraulic clutch since that would clean things up a bit down there but again...price tag is a bit high. And i think the GM ones have a different input shaft length then the dodge units which may require changing the shaft but I would have to re-read that.

Are you planning on boosting the car? I plan on turboing it. Because of that, I want long ratios but only 4 of them. It will NEVER be a daily, nor will be be a cruiser. It's a Weekend Warrior with a taste for blood. Since it will be turboed, I want to set the ratios for 60mph in first and a 50mph spread between gears after that. Because of the long gears I will have lots of linear boost and power as well as a way to stop the turbo from spooling if I need to.
 
Are you planning on boosting the car? I plan on turboing it. Because of that, I want long ratios but only 4 of them. It will NEVER be a daily, nor will be be a cruiser. It's a Weekend Warrior with a taste for blood. Since it will be turboed, I want to set the ratios for 60mph in first and a 50mph spread between gears after that. Because of the long gears I will have lots of linear boost and power as well as a way to stop the turbo from spooling if I need to.

No I won't be boosting the car (at least for a long time). I just want something with closer ratios to keep it quick but with overdrive to keep my highway rpm's down. I plan to do lots of cruising with this thing and hopefully a few good length road trips. If I can manage to get 22+ mpg I will be ecstatic and it will allow me to play more often.
 
That's what I want to do with mine once they come out with a standalone ECM for the 09+ Eagle hemi's.

22-25-28 mpg's Cruising down the Interstate at 75mph with the windows up A/C on and the stereo thumpin'... makes me smile just thinking about it. :D

Ill be using a standard A-833 untill I can afford a Passon 5 speed or one of his over drive gear sets for the a-833 case. But, Im sure I can still squeeze out 20 mpg's without the over drive gear. Gdemon on FABO has a 71 Demon powered by a 6.1 Hemi with a 4 speed and a 3.55 rear gear and he gets about 19 mpg. I'm sure I can match that with lesser displacement of my 5.7, a 2.96 rear gear plus the VVT and variable runner length intake of the 09+ Eagle Hemi... despite the 700lbs extra weight or so that my '69 Coronet will be carrying around...

Its just a matter of planning and research to learn what works and what does not.

Good luck

C
 
Yeah that sounds like a very good plan and 28 mpg with 400 hp is just plain sexy:headbang:

I will probably end up running the A-833 but am not sure what I have to do to make it work. I don't want to spend $500 on a Quicktime bell so would use a small block but then I have to "shorten the input"....lop some off?
 
Sorry guys, but I dont see any way your gonna get high 20's in mpg. I'm getting low to mid 20's, depending how often I put my foot in it. My rear gears are 3.91, so maybe if you use 2.76 that would help alot, then maybe high 20's.
 
Yeah that sounds like a very good plan and 28 mpg with 400 hp is just plain sexy:headbang:

I will probably end up running the A-833 but am not sure what I have to do to make it work. I don't want to spend $500 on a Quicktime bell so would use a small block but then I have to "shorten the input"....lop some off?

The small block bell will work. You will need the MP flywheel and you will need to cut about 3/4" off of the tip of the input shaft of your a-833... I do think that 28 MPG would be a stretch... Everything would have to be working perfectly, including your right foot. A more realistic goal would be 22.

400hp will require a cam, spring change and custome tuning which all might make it more difficult to nail down mileages in the mid 20's.

Sorry guys, but I dont see any way your gonna get high 20's in mpg. I'm getting low to mid 20's, depending how often I put my foot in it. My rear gears are 3.91, so maybe if you use 2.76 that would help alot, then maybe high 20's.

I mentioned 28 mpg's only because of several considerations that I know will help my particular build. Like: an overdrive trans, 2.96 or 3.23 rear gear, VVT, and variable runner length truck intake and a weight of 3500 lbs.

I have a friend with a 2010 Challenger Classic R/T with a 6 speed and Super Trak Pak. His car is aerodynamically superior, granted, but it weighs a solid 600-700lbs more and he pulls down solid 27-28 mpg's on the highway... The 6 speed cars have no MDS either.

I will be happy with 20mpg's to start with and 400 HP...
 
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1630899#post1630899

"Check list of my swap Hemi.

Hemi 5.7 2005 with A-833

Home made parts:
-Intake
-headers
-Transmission support slot by .500
-Input shaft shorted by .750
-Catch can for coolant
-Accelerator cable support
-busching for pulley serpentine belt
-shorted spark plug wire

Buy parts:
-MSD ignition control PN 6013
-MSD wiring PN 88863
-Carb AED 650 HO
-Air filter Edelbrooke EDEL1203
-Engine mount TTI
-Blocking plate TTI (oil filter)
-Remote oil filter Transdapt 1113 with weather head fitting.
-Flywheel Mcload #464108
-Flywheel bolt ARP 151-2801 Two pack
-Clutch centerforce DF269739
-Pilot bearing Mopar #53009180ab
-release bearing stock
-Serpentine belt K070673
-Fuel pump Mallory #4110
-Fuel filter before pump carquest R86481
-Fuel filter before carb RU650190
-Starter mopar P5249644C
-Painless relay bank PW30107
-180 degre thermostat jet-10183
-Electric fan flexalite syclone Flex 398
-Radiator Northern Nor209675
-Thermocouple PRF-30113
-TTI Header Gasket 0200gahg2457
-Relay for fan HFM-ZFRA
-Radiator Hose carquest 21767 cut in middle and use half for upper and half for the bottom
-Oil pan mopar crate engine
-Royal purple 5W20 oil
-Hemi truck oil filter

For reference only, double check all number."


"4250 miles on this setup without problem
294 WHP
21 mpg on highway"


Now price out all the above items and you will have a realworld estimate of price for a carbed 5.7 hemi swap... :D
 
Thanks man, thats an awesome list to have. I will definitely keep all that handy. I am going to attempt to keep mine fuel injected with the stock system though controlled with a hacked computer. Only time will tell how things turn out, I am a long way off from completion and at this point selling parts to pay for my swap.

So if anybody needs any 66 coronet parts give me a jingle
:hello2:
 
I am also curious about what rear gear to use. I don't want the car to rev too fast, because then boosting it is useless. I wonder if a 3.06 rear end would be what I'm looking for? Any ideas on how to determine what I'm looking for? My goal is to have 50mph or so with the car in boost. God, I can already tell I'm asking for one hell of a headache.
 
I am not sure what you meant by:

My goal is to have 50mph or so with the car in boost.

But its not entirely that hard to calculate engine RPM if you know rear end ratio, tire size and transmission ratio. I made a spreadsheet that can do it for me.
 
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