Centerforce Clutch Pedal effort - BS or the real thing?

[turbo36]

Currently, I have an American Power Train diaphragm style clutch in my 65' Belvedere II, thou I like the holding power and smoothness of engagement, it is very hard on my poor ol' arthritic, many surgeries, knee. I am looking for ways to reduce the pedal effort.

Beside going to a hydraulic clutch set up the other option would be a "weighted" type diaphragm clutch. Researching my options I see that Centerforce is claiming that their "patented" design results in less clutch pedal effort so I give them a call to see just how much less it is. Unfortunately they were not able to tell me in terms I could immediately relate to (such a % effort reduction) but they did tell me it takes 400 lbs of force to operate their pressure plate.

My questions:

1. What is the force required for a stock clutch?

2. Is 400 lbs. a lot or a little?

3. Can anyone give me a "real life experience" on this one?

thanks, Bob

 

[benno440]

i also have the same hyd clutch, i had same problem with being too stiff, check this first. what is the distance that the arm of the master cylinder is from the pivot point of the pedal? it should be no more than 2" down the pedal.

so from centreline of the clutch pedal pivot point to centre hole of where the master cylinder rod bolts to the poedal should be less than 2"

once i did this i could neally use my pinky to press the pedal in.

i hope this helps, roughly 4" of travel on the pedal should be around 1" travel of the master cylinder rod. post some pics i should be able to assist further

 

[tallhair]

i also have the same hyd clutch, i had same problem with being too stiff, check this first. what is the distance that the arm of the master cylinder is from the pivot point of the pedal? it should be no more than 2" down the pedal.

so from centreline of the clutch pedal pivot point to centre hole of where the master cylinder rod bolts to the poedal should be less than 2"

once i did this i could neally use my pinky to press the pedal in.

i hope this helps, roughly 4" of travel on the pedal should be around 1" travel of the master cylinder rod. post some pics i should be able to assist further

he doesn't have a hydraulic clutch beeno .. he's looking at alternatives to going to a hydraulic clutch .. however it sounds like that may be a good idea for his knees

 

[440+6]

I installed a centerforce in my car and removed the over the center spring on the pedal per instructions and it is noticeably lighter and hooks up great. Been using it for around 10 years now and still going strong.
One of the reasons I went with centerforce is I have a bad left knee, right's not so good either.

 

[coloradodave]

I have a Centerline clutch set up in my car and was unhappy with the pedal pressure. I fooled around with the pedal ratios and never could get it right. I eventually used the American Powertrain hydraulic THROW-OUT bearing set-up. Very simple system, way cleaner look, more header clearance and very light pedal pressure. I highly recommend it, especially if you like your present clutch assembly.

 

[benno440]

oops, haha, well definetly give th TO bearing a go like i and coloradodave did, very nice upgrade or go an automatic.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

This is my recent experience. IMO clutch linkage geometry has to be right or pedal pressure will be a big problem I am putting a 440 and 4 speed in my 64 Dodge 440 project. I believe for the most part that Mopar engineering is good enough for me. So I put all correct pedals, bellhouse, clutch arm, throwout bearing, clutch arm pivot, and all clutch linkage. Left out the over center spring as per Center force instructions. If this 10 1/2 clutch will hold, I will be amazed, as the pedal presssure may be lighter than stock! I was afeared that my arthritic knee could not stand drag raceing --but I am sure it will.

 

[turbo36]

This is my recent experience. IMO clutch linkage geometry has to be right or pedal pressure will be a big problem I am putting a 440 and 4 speed in my 64 Dodge 440 project. I believe for the most part that Mopar engineering is good enough for me. So I put all correct pedals, bellhouse, clutch arm, throwout bearing, clutch arm pivot, and all clutch linkage. Left out the over center spring as per Center force instructions. If this 10 1/2 clutch will hold, I will be amazed, as the pedal presssure may be lighter than stock! I was afeared that my arthritic knee could not stand drag raceing --but I am sure it will.

The clutch holds great, it is a kevlar disc that if broken in properly is supposed to be bullet proof. I had a fellow that works for me put the clutch in and he did not remove the over center spring, that may be the root of my problem. All the linkage parts are new.

 

[johnhinds]

Most of the post's that i've read on here states that if using a diaphram style pressure plate its best to remove that over center spring. although i bought a McLeod diaphram i went ahead and removed the spring before i installed my pedal assembly. i would try that first. John

 

[moparmarks]

I've run a 12" CF in my 73 W200 for years. Actually bought it when they first came out back in the late 80's. Through my mechinest for a loop when he tried to balance it. They are self balancing. I love the easy foot pressure. Being in a 8500lb 4wd it has been hammered on many, many times. Best damm clutch I've ever owned. Some of my Rock Crawler buddies use them I can't believe hard they are on them.

- - - Updated - - -

And yes, you need to remove the camover spring for most any diaphram type plate.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Has anyone here had a centerforce dual friction diaphram clutch, stick the clutch pedal to the floor when higher rpm shifting? I always had that problem back in the day and swore I would never have another diaphram type. And now I have the Centerforce installed in my project and have'nt tried it out yet. ..................MO

 

[pushrod]

The pedal sticking to the floor is caused from not removing the over spring, as said previously. Had the same problem in my Dart, Removing the spring was the cure.

 

[dvw]

The Centerforce Dual Friction is the best clutch I've ever owned. I removed the over center spring, other than taht the linkage is factory. Pedal has less pressure than stock. It never shudders,slip,chatters. Over 100 drag strip passes with slicks. Pedal never sticks to the floor. Stock 23 spline power shifts flawlessly. I would buy another in a heart beat. The car is a small block Challenger running mid 12s.
Doug

 

[coloradodave]

This is my recent experience. IMO clutch linkage geometry has to be right or pedal pressure will be a big problem I am putting a 440 and 4 speed in my 64 Dodge 440 project. I believe for the most part that Mopar engineering is good enough for me. So I put all correct pedals, bellhouse, clutch arm, throwout bearing, clutch arm pivot, and all clutch linkage. Left out the over center spring as per Center force instructions. If this 10 1/2 clutch will hold, I will be amazed, as the pedal presssure may be lighter than stock! I was afeared that my arthritic knee could not stand drag raceing --but I am sure it will.

I agree that the factory linkage is the hot set-up UNLESS you're running 2" TTIs in which case using the stock linkage without modification is almost impossible. I went to hydraulic slave cylinder set-up and then finally to the hydraulic throw out bearing instead. Very happy with it...