5.7 Hemi

[ply64post]

I would like to install a 3rd Gen Hemi in an older car and was wanting to know what all components I would need.I have found a 2013 5.7 372 HP engine,including starter, alternator,compressor,engine harness,and computer, is there any other pieces I would need from the donor vehicle?Would there be any issues on this installation,I heard there are updates to these engines as they get newer.Variable cam timing and dropping cylinders when cruising.I guess better yet what would be the best year engines for the swap?? It would have a 833 overdrive and 3.55's behind it.

Thank You for any advice
Jeff

 

[5.7 hemi]

Lets start with the 08 and down Hemi's.
You'll need the engine, duh, lol, alt., ac compressor if wanting ac, power steering pump, and computer. Remember, all 3G hemi's will bolt up to any small block trans, auto or stick.

You said it will use a stick, so a starter from a Dakota, I forget the years sorry, and your set.

The easy way to wire the engine is a harness from modern muscle, they are a vendor on FBBO, or hotwireauto.com and they are a 3 or 5 wire hook up and the rest is plug in to the engine.

Engine mounts from TTI, isolators from Schumacher creative services (ploy loc), headers from TTI also. Oil pan from Milodon, Charlie's, Canton and will require a matching pickup tube, use a center sump pan with your factory k frame.

Do this, and it will drop right in, bolt right up, fire right up, and burn your tires down to nothing.

The 09 and up, basically the same as above, but I would contact Modern Muscle, as they have a package for the vvt engines and can answer all your questions about those motors.

This will allow you to drop

 

[kb67mopar]

If you go with a factory computer to run the system with a hotwire auto make sure you get the computer tuned to run the manual transmission tune and remove any anti-theft systems. They can do it, just make sure you get it done or you will be disappointed when you can't drive it.

Don't forget your fuel system too, you will need to either put in an in-tank pump (5.7 hemi would recommend tanks-inc) or run an external pump and corvette filter/regulator to bring the pressure down.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Good call Kevin!!

 

[4ever69]

If you go 2008 back on a 5.7/6.1, why not go carb with a MSD box and be done with it? The biggest hassle is finding an intake that will work.... Much cleaner hassle free install in my opinion....

 

[kb67mopar]

If you go 2008 back on a 5.7/6.1, why not go carb with a MSD box and be done with it? The biggest hassle is finding an intake that will work.... Much cleaner hassle free install in my opinion....

If you like a Carb, Indy makes a great intake (mod man) which can be used for both fuel injection and carb. If you run a different system than the factory stuff you will need a throttle body that is controlled by a cable instead of the drive by wire stuff.

Personally if I had the cash and to do it again I would run a FAST fuel injection system since they are more tunable than the factory stuff. But to me, going late model and taking the step back in time toward the carb is the wrong direction. Over half of my decision to go late model was how nice it will be to always start on the first turn of the key, better fuel economy, and longer engine life (yes all that unburnt fuel from a poor mix ratio washes oil off the cyl walls and wears out the rings and walls).

 

[4ever69]

If you like a Carb, Indy makes a great intake (mod man) which can be used for both fuel injection and carb. If you run a different system than the factory stuff you will need a throttle body that is controlled by a cable instead of the drive by wire stuff.

Personally if I had the cash and to do it again I would run a FAST fuel injection system since they are more tunable than the factory stuff. But to me, going late model and taking the step back in time toward the carb is the wrong direction. Over half of my decision to go late model was how nice it will be to always start on the first turn of the key, better fuel economy, and longer engine life (yes all that unburnt fuel from a poor mix ratio washes oil off the cyl walls and wears out the rings and walls).

We had both a 5.7 AEM EFI and a 5.7 MSD Carb in the shop recently, the carb motor always started better .

I agree though a properly tuned EFI is the tits, the problem is most of them aren't tuned properly.... On the other hand, it's pretty easy to tune a carb, it's cheaper, and looks like it belongs in the engine bay, less wires, less computer boxes.....

Unburnt fuel usually exits out the exhaust port, if your saying you have puddled fuel in the chamber, you might want to check your float height/float needle, or perhaps your fuel pressure.....

 

[kb67mopar]

We had both a 5.7 AEM EFI and a 5.7 MSD Carb in the shop recently, the carb motor always started better .

I agree though a properly tuned EFI is the tits, the problem is most of them aren't tuned properly.... On the other hand, it's pretty easy to tune a carb, it's cheaper, and looks like it belongs in the engine bay, less wires, less computer boxes.....

Unburnt fuel usually exits out the exhaust port, if your saying you have puddled fuel in the chamber, you might want to check your float height/float needle, or perhaps your fuel pressure.....

Its a longevity thing. I forget who I was talking to, but I think it was an engine engineer at the time. And my experience has rang true with this, if you pull apart an EFI motor and a Carb'd motor with the same number of miles on it and run your finger across the cyl bore, you will find the carb'd motor has a big ridge at the top of the cyl and the efi motor doesn't. And the jist of it was that because the efi system can adjust fuel ratios for temperature, elevation etc, its always much closer in tune and doesn't over fuel washing oil off of the upper cyl walls. Which naturally resulted in more wear near the top of the cyl.

From what I have seen, every carb'd motor I have ever pulled apart had a big ridge up there. I've pulled apart several late model engines with 100k on them with little to no ridge and often still visible crosshatch.

No arguing here but its just what I have seen and heard. So I tend to believe it. But as you have stated, the carbs look good on there, less wiring and can be tuned very well if done right. (I don't know jack about carb adjustment)

 

[4ever69]

Its a longevity thing. I forget who I was talking to, but I think it was an engine engineer at the time. And my experience has rang true with this, if you pull apart an EFI motor and a Carb'd motor with the same number of miles on it and run your finger across the cyl bore, you will find the carb'd motor has a big ridge at the top of the cyl and the efi motor doesn't. And the jist of it was that because the efi system can adjust fuel ratios for temperature, elevation etc, its always much closer in tune and doesn't over fuel washing oil off of the upper cyl walls. Which naturally resulted in more wear near the top of the cyl.

From what I have seen, every carb'd motor I have ever pulled apart had a big ridge up there. I've pulled apart several late model engines with 100k on them with little to no ridge and often still visible crosshatch.

No arguing here but its just what I have seen and heard. So I tend to believe it. But as you have stated, the carbs look good on there, less wiring and can be tuned very well if done right. (I don't know jack about carb adjustment)

Been there, done that myself, and I would attribute that to better oiling and better quality engine oil, better tolerances on the cyl walls, better quality pistons, better quality rings, better alloys in the blocks than I would fuel ratio... I forget exactly what the ratios is but at least 1/2 of all the wear on ANY engine is at start up.

There could me some truth to that, but I would have to see the reference before I thought anything about it... I did a google search and came up with zero....

 

[kb67mopar]

Been there, done that myself, and I would attribute that to better oiling and better quality engine oil, better tolerances on the cyl walls, better quality pistons, better quality rings, better alloys in the blocks than I would fuel ratio... I forget exactly what the ratios is but at least 1/2 of all the wear on ANY engine is at start up.

There could me some truth to that, but I would have to see the reference before I thought anything about it... I did a google search and came up with zero....

You could very well be 100% right. I guess we just need to pull apart a carbureted 5.7 hemi after a while and find out!! who is game?

 

[4ever69]

Here's the thing, by the time anybody puts 100k miles on a restomod carb 5.7 Hemi, we'll both be taking a dirt nap, so the whole discussion is kinda mute!!!!! So again, carb vs EFI, even if there were some validity to having more longevity with EFI, I don't think anybody would put enough miles on it to matter.... Personally, it would never be part of my equation...
Besides the fact that unless you're running an OEM EFI system on a unaltered motor, I would almost guarantee that the fuel mixture and timing is NOT optimized, which is what I posted way up on top.

Anyway, nice discussion.....

 

[kb67mopar]

Here's the thing, by the time anybody puts 100k miles on a restomod carb 5.7 Hemi, we'll both be taking a dirt nap, so the whole discussion is kinda mute!!!!! So again, carb vs EFI, even if there were some validity to having more longevity with EFI, I don't think anybody would put enough miles on it to matter.... Personally, it would never be part of my equation...
Besides the fact that unless you're running an OEM EFI system on a unaltered motor, I would almost guarantee that the fuel mixture and timing is NOT optimized, which is what I posted way up on top.

Anyway, nice discussion.....

Hey now, I hope to put 100k on my 5.7 but it isn't carb'd and I am running a dead stock motor with the factory system.

But yes, thank you for sharing your thoughts.

 

[4ever69]

Hey man, I wish you all the best, but rarely if ever do these types of cars get that kind of mileage on them...

 

[kb67mopar]

Hey man, I wish you all the best, but rarely if ever do these types of cars get that kind of mileage on them...

20 years and a few sets of tires ought to do it...haha

Best wishes bud