1969 GTX engine removal

[uwss]

I have a 69 GTX 440, 4 speed manual transmission. I have removed all the bolts on the motor mounts, bell housing, headers, starter but the motor will not come out. When I hoist the motor up , the bell housing and transmission come up too. What am I missing ?

 

[am3rican]

Take pictures. Front and sides.

 

[Photon440]

Your transmission input shaft is inserted into the pilot bushing hole in the crankshaft. Also your pressure plate and clutch are bolted to the crankshaft. You should drop the transmission first.

 

[Beekeeper]

The input shaft on the gearbox is still in the pilot bearing and cutch disc.
The tranny will have to come up with the engine in order to pull it out.
It is much easier to pull both parts together

 

[uwss]

I got the bolts out on the transmission that are bolted to the bell housing except 1. Top drivers side. Any suggestions ? Once that bolt is removed will the motor pull out ?

The reason, I am pulling this motor is the motor made a vibration shifting from a stop and accelerating to about 30 mph. then all of a sudden bang, oil and coolant went everywhere. The cam is snapped in two. there is a hole in block on passenger side about the size of a fist.

 

[uwss]

What is the best way to pull the transmission ?

 

[Photon440]

Well, according to the service manual...

 

[uwss]

Where can I get this tool ? Can this be rented ? Any ideas on how to get to the top drivers side bolt out ?

 

[uwss]

Any one want to buy this car ? I can't get it out.

 

[am3rican]

Any one want to buy this car ? I can't get it out.

You being serious?

 

[Photon440]

Still can't get the bolt out? Why, is it stuck? Is something in the way? Got a picture?

 

[69 Charger RT/SE]

Still can't get the bolt out? Why, is it stuck? Is something in the way? Got a picture?

Photon440, chances are that because he took the bolts out of the bell housing before he removed the tranny, the bell housing shifted and is binding the bolt. The tranny should be removed first and then bell housing can be removed without the tranny weight on it.

 

[uwss]

I finally got it out but it was NOT easy. Thanks for everyone input. This is my first time with a mopar. I started with Chevys 55 409 2 door post, went to Ford and now Mopar.

I pulled the motor apart and this is what I found;
1. camshaft snapped in two.
2. rod broken and wedged against crank
3. piston damaged and top of piston has a small nick in it.
4. 2 holes in block
5. hole in oil pan. whatever hit it put a hole in it and knocked one of the bolts completely out.

I will post pictures. Anyone know what would do this. I was coming off a stop sign shifting through the gears; at about 30 mph I felt a vibration and then bang.

- - - Updated - - -

69 charger; I believe you are correct. The bell housing had shifted. I could a wrench on it but NO room to turn the wrench.

 

[Photon440]

Ouch! Was it running completely normally up until then? What rpm. did it fail at? I'm guessing that with a hole in the pan you already knew there was some damage inside. I didn't realize when you started this thread that the engine was broken when you were pulling it.

Glad you sorted out the removal part at least. Are you looking for a replacement engine now?

-=Photon440=-

 

[uwss]

No just pissed off !!!!

- - - Updated - - -

 

[uwss]

Photon440, Yes I am looking for a block but from my research I see I need to buy a Mopar Performance block or Keith Black Al block. I am looking to make 700 hp plus or minus. 69 GTX 3800 lbs, 4 speed A833 tranny, 4:10 rear end. No rear seats, Black on black right now, radial slicks on rear.

I have edelbrock rpm heads that can be re-used, also 1.6 rockers, the crank appears to be undamaged and is a steel crank,( i believe i will have to go to a 4340 crank and rods), weiand intake with holley 6 pack including promax conversion( 68 jets center with 74 squirter and 88 jets outboard).
I plan to rebuild the tranny, replace the U joints and check driveshaft for balance.
Any ideas would be helpful, some say to use the stock block with a girdle but others say it is a matter of time before the block fails.

 

[440+6]

I had a 383 that looked like that, same hole in the block and all but I was at about 60mph full throttle and 7000 rpm or so, man that was a fun ride.

 

[conv67bdere]

Looks like the connecting rod gave - had a buddy have the same thing happen to his 5.7L Hemi in his Durango - it too was not a pretty picture . . .

Sorry for your bad luck and the engine damage . . .

 

[69RRGTX]

Photon440, Yes I am looking for ablock but from my research I see I need to buy a Mopar Performance block orKeith Black Al block

Ouch!

No way you need a 6000.00 dollar KB block to make that amount of power. (Although 100 pounds off the nose aint bad!) A nice 440 block with steel main caps, studs, and well machined can handle the amount of power those heads can make. As cheap as wedge rotators are these days, I would just buy a reasonable stroker kit and call it done.

Good luck, Mark

 

[uwss]

I found a good block. The machine shop cleaned it, magna fluxed the block . The block is good so here we go. I am going to go with :
1. Eagle 4340 stroker crank
2. JE pistons -flat
3. 505-512 cu in. having decided yet; I have read 528 can be done but don't about reliability. Don't want to wreck another engine.
4. Edelbrock RPM heads- gonna have them flow check and get them machined for max flow
5. I have the Weiand 6 pack intake with the promax 6 pack conversion
7. Either TTi or Schumacher headers and exhaust.
8. Arp studs on the crank
9. flow master water pump unless anybody has a better idea
10. I have 1.6 rockers ; they are black and stamped 440A1.6 L or 440A1.6R any body have any ideas who made them.
11. Need ideas for cam ?