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Changing a Master Cylinder in a 68 Plymouth GTX

BumperMan

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Guys I've been working on changing out the Master Cylinder in a 68 Plymouth GTX, is there a secret to getting to the top right nut. It's the one right behind the steering column. I've tried every combination I know sockets and wrenches and I cannot get anything on it to break it loose.

Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
 
definitely not a fun project. you might pull the seat out just to be more comfortable while working on it. The easiest master I ever replaced was when I had the dash and windshield out. IIRC, I used several extensions, and a u joint to get at the nut. and I didn't put that nut back on. Had the car for 18 years and three nuts held the mast just fine.
 
A "medium" deep socket helps. Somewhere between a standard and a true deep well.

Stanley makes a nice sized one, and they have them at wal-mart now.

I've been known to leave that particular nut off a time or two.


...on a related note, I found a 68 power brake car at the JY yesterday, and thought about getting the studs that go the other way through the fire wall.

Any one done this? Are the long enough? Is there a different reinforcement plate?

Of course I forgot to get them.
 
YY1, it would defiantly make life easier if those studs was going the other way. I will go to Walmart this afternoon and look for that socket. I've got 200 different sockets out n my tool box so I guess I will have 201 now.

Thanks for the Info
 
And if you do put that nut back on,try using a little pencil type magnet to put the nut back on and then try using your fingertips to screw in on a few threads then tighten it with socket!
When i done mine there was no nut and i could see why,as it is a bear to get it back on with just your fingers!
Hope you don`t have 3 pedals to fool with!
 
I found that the easiest way to get at those nuts and bolts is to remove the front seat or drivers bucket seat, and then drop the steering column down after loosing its mounting under the dash. I then reversed the bolts so that I could mount the MC and tighten it down from the engine bay as opposed to from under the dash. Good luck either way is it is a real PITA making that swap...cr8crshr/Tuck
 
Removing and installing that particular nut on the manual master cylinder is not a fun job for sure. When recently converting to front disc brakes I had to go through this very process. In fact the nut was missing from mine so the last guy to replace the master cylinder didn't bother putting it back on.
I could only get one finger on the end of the stud, I finally ended up using 1/4" extensions with a wobbly and socket on the end. To keep the wobbly from rotating down and dropping the nut to the floor I set the wobbly on top of my vice and gave it a slight whack with a small ballpeen hammer so it wouldn't move as easily, this allowed me to get the nut up in place then very carefully rotate the extensions/wobbly/socket and nut and it took hold.
Not looking to do that job again anytime soon.
 
twinscrew698, why of course I have 3 pedals to deal with. If I had only 2 that would be way to easy.
 
Removing the steering column on mine helped a lot, but still not an easy job (had the steering sector off anyway). Even so, I could not even see that stud or nut, but like a black hole, knew it was there. I was able to R&R that nut blindly with a 12" ext. and 1/2" std. socket, no wiggler.

Barry
68 GTX
 
I've done it several times the a deep well, a swivel and about 16" of extension.

x2

It can be done, but it is truly a PITA.

I actually had better luck doing this as a 2 man job, with an air ratchet. Get really good pressure in the tank... one person on the outside with the air ratchet and me on the inside with my finger on the nut. They are usually only torqued to 35-40 ft/lbs and the finger pressure combined with the high speed of the air ratchet will usually do the job. even better if you can get anything in the form of a socket on there to help with the grip.

good luck to you... patience and dexterity is the key.
 
After 3 nights of working on this and finally finding the perfect combination I was successful. I ended up using a 1/4 drive ratchet, a 13 mm medium drive socket, with a extension and a swivel socket. Bam done, now it's time to put in the new one.

Thanks a lot guys for the information and support.

I feel like I just won a million bucks. Wonder what's it's going to feel like when I get the motor in it.
 
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