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Rear end?

hjsmith00843

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Is it normal for one side of the wheels to be closer to the fender well than the other side? My tire on the right rear is very close to rubbing and the left has alot of room. It does have the ladder bar suspension, dana 60, and coil overs. Is this something that I will need to get address soon. I can see it barely touch the tire on the widest part. This was with wrinkle tires over inflated to around 25 psi.

It is barely touching if at all. The fender is rolled on the inside.
 
sounds like someone forgot to measure twice and weld once when setting up that rear.if the tires dont hit its not a huge deal.for proper hook up you should fix it.
 
Need to check the suspension for square with the body and with itself. I've seen a lot of cars where the body isn't square with the frame and it's not always due to being wrecked.
 
Is the rear in alignment/straight/square compared to the front end or frame ?
with an aftermarket rear suspension, like ladders & coil overs, it's "usually" squared &/or centered in the car...
it could be just an adjustment is off, watts linkage or panhard bar/rod or diagonal bar etc.

Is the body mounted straight ?
was it just a back half ?
or was it wrecked or bent ?
is one bar longer than the other/adjusted {wrong?} differently ?
was the rear ladder bars centered properly ?
is there the same amount of room/measurements on both sides,
between the mounts welded on the rear axle tubes & the backing plates or axle flanges ?
a low or high ride height, can also effect the centering if it's a panhard bar

there could be many other factors too

I'd also plot it out on a flat level surface &
make sure it's square & tracking correctly front to rear,
you can plumb-bob it mark it out on the floor,
from the frame & from actual tires mounting surfaces,
check to see if it's actually straight & square
straight compared to the front suspension, rear end/suspension & the frame etc.

OE from the factory it's not uncommon
to have the passenger side rear tire closer to the inner-fender-well,
IIRC I think it was offset for universal/u-joint wear or something along those lines,
like they did with the engine offset {mostly for steering clearances}
trans & pinion angles...

scaling the car on all 4 corners, with the driver in the seat,
may help to show where there's an issue also, if any...

http://www.cachassisworks.com/stories/techcac-003_web.pdf
http://www.raceglides.com.au/files/fourlink-ladderbar-tips.pdf
 

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Stock rear suspension on mine. The passenger side wheel is closer to the wheelhouse than the drivers side.
 
^^^^^This....... by adjusting the diagonal link, you should be able to center the rear axle.


Exactly. I just wanted someone else to say it.lol

- - - Updated - - -

You can see my diagonal bar from the passenger rear side going to the drivers side front
 

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It's very common for the 1/4 panels to be wider or narrower on one side or the other make sure the axle is square to the centerline. It makes no difference if the axle is not located on the C/L, just square to the centerline. If the axle is square adjust the track bar(diagonal bar shown) to center the axle to your liking. Two of my cars have the axles shifted for 1/4 panel clearance. Both leave straight and square.
DougS18.jpg
 
yes I do have the diagonal bar. I will try and adjust it. To move the body to the right do I need to shorten the bar or make it a bit longer. Thanks for all of the information you guys have been giving me.
 
yes I do have the diagonal bar. I will try and adjust it. To move the body to the right do I need to shorten the bar or make it a bit longer. Thanks for all of the information you guys have been giving me.



loosen up the 3/4" locknuts on each end so you have play and movement and turn the bar which ever way you need to go. You'll see it either move away from the wheel well or get closer to it. A little at a time and you'll be able to center your wheels.
 
Am I wrong to believe the differential pinion shaft should be inline with the transmission output shaft and engine crankshaft to eliminate longitudinal vibrations throughout the drive line which would offset an altered axle housing if not centered correctly. This would change wheel spacing in the wells which is not a critical factor if clearance is not an issue.
 
Am I wrong to believe the differential pinion shaft should be inline with the transmission output shaft and engine crankshaft to eliminate longitudinal vibrations throughout the drive line which would offset an altered axle housing if not centered correctly. This would change wheel spacing in the wells which is not a critical factor if clearance is not an issue.
As long as the trans output shaft and pinion center lines are parallel it's not an issue. Moving the housing side to side will not affect that relationship.
Doug
 
Thanks Doug. I have only modified one axle housing but have done a few engine conversions and have always tired to keep everything in line and front axle parallel with rear. Is there an allowable offset in the drive line in a parallel plane? Would have thought this to hard on universal joints without going to constant volicitys.
 
Less than 3 degrees would be acceptable. I doubt if you could get close to that number. You could move the transmission to pinion center line approximately .785" off center for every 1 degree of angle using a 45" long drive shaft.
Doug
 
3° on a 45" driveshaft is 2.3583" of offset I would not have guessed that amount to be acceptable. I have always tried to keep the rear end centered to the frame and the pinion and transmission to within 1/4" total from parallel if not dead on.
 
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