Intake/Head issue???

[1968RRTEXAS]

Good evening, kind of frustrated that I am having to ask for help back to back nights. But after getting the dipstick issue resolved tonight, getting the oil pan back on, I laid out the valley cover, set set the intake on top, started all the intake bolts and realized I have another issue...I really hope I dont need another intake or another set of heads

 

[kiwigtx]

Looks like a Chevy guy has 'Uni-lugged' your intake. Bummer. Hopefully it bolts down correctly and seals the intake ports, and doesn't leak oil.

 

[1968RRTEXAS]

Looks like a Chevy guy has 'Uni-lugged' your intake. Bummer. Hopefully it bolts down correctly and seals the intake ports, and doesn't leak oil.

I truly hope that's not the case, the gentleman I bought it from in Dallas was a engine builder, nothing but mopar

 

[451Mopar]

was that a used manifold? looks like someone elongated the bolt holes?
The intake looks like it is setting about right for the ports to be aligned.
I'd check the port alignment and if it is good, just place larger washers between the intake and bolt head.
Forgot, put some teflon paste sealer on the bolt threads so oil won't wick up the bolt threads.

 

[1968RRTEXAS]

was that a used manifold? looks like someone elongated the bolt holes?
The intake looks like it is setting about right for the ports to be aligned.
I'd check the port alignment and if it is good, just place larger washers between the intake and bolt head.
Forgot, put some teflon paste sealer on the bolt threads so oil won't wick up the bolt threads.

The issue isn't the bolts, they all thread in. I seen the elongated holes and thought that was weird. The issue is the huge oval opening on top of the head. I'm wondering if it's a 383 intake. From what I read so far they are .750 less narrow than a 440.

 

[451Mopar]

All the stock heads have that "U" shaped opening around the heat crossover, and the intake does not cover it.
Also, there is no (physical) difference between a 383 and 440 head. The engine blocks are different, but not the heads.

 

[1968RRTEXAS]

View attachment 237304

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All the stock heads have that "U" shaped opening around the heat crossover, and the intake does not cover it.
Also, there is no (physical) difference between a 383 and 440 head. The engine blocks are different, but not the heads.

It just stays open to the elements? I mistakenly said 383 head in my reply above (now changes) I meant a 383 intake is narrower

 

[62 Dart Convertible]

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It just stays open to the elements?

Yep

 

[kiwigtx]

Yes, that is how they are.

 

[Meep-Meep]

The elongated holes are because someone couldn't get the manifold on another engine because the heads were milled and/or block decked. Normally when the heads get milled the intake side needs to be cut as well. Both my cars are super tight getting the bolts in but it seals fine.

 

[1968RRTEXAS]

That's crazy it just stays open. What is the port for? I'm guessing EGR?

 

[62 Dart Convertible]

That's crazy it just stays open. What is the port for? I'm guessing EGR?

It's the "cast in" cavity which is airspace around the exhaust crossover port. I've always assumed Ma put a cavity there to reduce the amount of heat transferred to intake face/manifold.

 

[GrabberOrange69]

It's the "cast in" cavity which is airspace around the exhaust crossover port. I've always assumed Ma put a cavity there to reduce the amount of heat transferred to intake face/manifold.

+1

You'll be fine, it's supposed to be that way.

 

[66Satellite47]

The "cavity" around the heat cross over is the way standard big block Mopar heads are, to equalize heat in exhaust port compared to "outboard" exhaust ports??? I agree the elongated holes are from some previous head and/or block milling. If the deck surface of the head is milled, the intake side needs to be also. I've had the intake side valve cover rail get pretty thin from the amount needed to be milled to correspond to the deck milling. I'd use a washer to distribute the bolt load & cover that gap. If you can, bend a piece of welding rod to an L shape & slide down the intake port to feel if there's a significant misalignment on the top of the manifold/head interface.

 

[terzmo]

Yep

dats right

 

[lewtot184]

That's crazy it just stays open. What is the port for? I'm guessing EGR?

the open area around the heat cross over keeps the oil from cooking.

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elongate bolt holes means somebody has monkeyed with the intake. the important factor is whether the intake manifolds sits flatly on the the head surface, no gaps or odd angles. if the intake sits well then a washer under the bolts should be used. in fact a washer should always be used when alum is torqued.

 

[69Bee]

Like it was mentioned, the beads/block had the piss milled out of them, and the intake side of the heads were never milled. Your bolts look as if your setup is stock, because the bolts are back towards the intake manifold. If you don't like the gaps left by the elongated holes, you could always use a flat washer to cover them up.

As far as the crossover opening, all Mopar small block (LA) and big block heads have that. It is always exposed to the air.

 

[1968RRTEXAS]

Good morning mopar family, thank you for all the responses. I'm happy I'm still on track to put the engine and Xmssn in this weekend.

 

[383man]

The elongated holes are because someone couldn't get the manifold on another engine because the heads were milled and/or block decked. Normally when the heads get milled the intake side needs to be cut as well. Both my cars are super tight getting the bolts in but it seals fine.

That is right. I have seen it alot where guys have elongated the intake bolt holes to get the bolts started easier after the heads were milled. But as was siad many forget to mill the intake side of the heads. Should be fine as my intake bolts are also a little tight since my block was decked and the heads milled a little. And even though we did mill the intake side of my heads the bolts are still a little tight. Ron