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electronic ign conversion

Really? I always thought those were one of those electrical things that either worked or didn't?
Apparently Chrysler decided otherwise this recommendation was straight from the FSM something about the connections going bad. Never tried finding the bad connection just know replacing it solved the problem.
 
Try replacing the magnetic pickup in the distributor you have first your symptom is typical for it being bad and a small price as compared to replacing the distributor.

Really? I always thought those were one of those electrical things that either worked or didn't?

As part of a restoration, I future proofed my ignition system with all new components including fitting a NOS MP distributor to my car. I then suffered no end of ignition troubles. The car would start from cold but only run for minutes before cutting out.

Turned out the pickup in the new distributor was intermittently going open circuit.....so yes, they do sometimes fail then not fail.
 
Well, I reckon I'm going to swap out the MP distributor with a rebuilt Cardone unit for experimentation purposes, since the car is already wired up for electronic now. It would be more hassle to actually revert back to factory single point wiring at this point.
I've done everything else, so this is the next logical step in the process anyways. Thanks, y'all!
 
Gentlemen,
As I had mentioned in a previous post, there is nothing wrong with the MP distributor in theory. The reluctor, is nothing more than a rotating magnet. The "teeth" or spikes when they rotate past the pick up coil assembly, generate a voltage in the pick up coil which is fed to the control box, be it any color (orange or gold), which is amplified and used to turn OFF the ignition coil's primary voltage via the transistor on the control box, which causes the ignition coil to generate the approximately 30,000 volts sent to the plugs. The reluctor may be the cause of the difficulties. The teeth on the reluctor must be sharp to generate the pulse of the correct "shape" that the control box can process. The reluctor has 2 directional arrows to show the leading edge and MUST be installed in the direction that the distributor rotates. Sometimes the MP vacuum advance will cause the pick up coil to move eccentrically (not in the same centerline as the shaft) that will cause the reluctor to pick up coil air gap to change resulting in"spark scatter" and erratic operation. The fix?..... make sure the reluctor gap is correct (usually 0.006" to 0.008") the closer the better as it helps generate the correct pulse. Consider NOT using the vacuum advance and recurve the mechanical advance to bring the RATE of advance faster......all advance by say 35 degrees all in by 2200 RPM, but this must be determined by the owner.
Petronix is good but everything is self contained. One should consider keeping a spare module in the car....just in case.....you are not likely to find a replacement at an autoparts store.
I still use an numbers matching Prestolite dual point distributor with Mopar points....which I can buzz up to 6800 RPM without any missfire or point bounce......I still prefer the old way vs the MSD or Petronix method. Once the plugs ignite the fuel mix, how much voltage the system generates does not really matter, the ignition system's job is done.
This is just my opinion....
Cheers,
RJ RENTON
 
Well, I reckon I'm going to swap out the MP distributor with a rebuilt Cardone unit for experimentation purposes, since the car is already wired up for electronic now. It would be more hassle to actually revert back to factory single point wiring at this point.
I've done everything else, so this is the next logical step in the process anyways. Thanks, y'all!
I have changed back to the points distributor sitting along the side off the highway in less than 5 minutes. There is no wiring that needs to be removed from the car. Just pull the electronic distributor and put the points one in disconnect the ECU signal wire and install the points wire.set timing and go. It is that simple.
 
I have changed back to the points distributor sitting along the side off the highway in less than 5 minutes. There is no wiring that needs to be removed from the car. Just pull the electronic distributor and put the points one in disconnect the ECU signal wire and install the points wire.set timing and go. It is that simple.
Is a condenser used on both systems, Electronic and Points?
Thanks for your reply.
 
No....condenser used in a points style ignition system only
Thanks, A383Wing, So if anybody needs to change out there Electronic to a Point type distributor along side the road, be sure you have all the parts needed.

Information on MP Electronic Control Unit
MP Orange box # P4120505, General purpose, 6k rpm. yes, people have been having trouble with it.
MP Chrome box # P4120534, Had one for Street Racing for years, 8k rpm.
MP Gold box # P4120600, Racing only, 12k rpm.
 
I'd like to hear from folks who have used the Cardone as well....

Arrived today, tks RockAuto. I'll do a thread on it soonish.



dizzycardone.jpg

 
Gentlemen,
As I had mentioned in a previous post, there is nothing wrong with the MP distributor in theory. The reluctor, is nothing more than a rotating magnet. The "teeth" or spikes when they rotate past the pick up coil assembly, generate a voltage in the pick up coil which is fed to the control box, be it any color (orange or gold), which is amplified and used to turn OFF the ignition coil's primary voltage via the transistor on the control box, which causes the ignition coil to generate the approximately 30,000 volts sent to the plugs. The reluctor may be the cause of the difficulties. The teeth on the reluctor must be sharp to generate the pulse of the correct "shape" that the control box can process. The reluctor has 2 directional arrows to show the leading edge and MUST be installed in the direction that the distributor rotates. Sometimes the MP vacuum advance will cause the pick up coil to move eccentrically (not in the same centerline as the shaft) that will cause the reluctor to pick up coil air gap to change resulting in"spark scatter" and erratic operation. The fix?..... make sure the reluctor gap is correct (usually 0.006" to 0.008") the closer the better as it helps generate the correct pulse. Consider NOT using the vacuum advance and recurve the mechanical advance to bring the RATE of advance faster......all advance by say 35 degrees all in by 2200 RPM, but this must be determined by the owner.
Petronix is good but everything is self contained. One should consider keeping a spare module in the car....just in case.....you are not likely to find a replacement at an autoparts store.
I still use an numbers matching Prestolite dual point distributor with Mopar points....which I can buzz up to 6800 RPM without any missfire or point bounce......I still prefer the old way vs the MSD or Petronix method. Once the plugs ignite the fuel mix, how much voltage the system generates does not really matter, the ignition system's job is done.
This is just my opinion....
Cheers,
RJ RENTON

Are you a teacher or an engineer? I'm guessing one or the other...lol. seriously, I am enjoying your very well written, easy to understand and correct posts. Thank you...
 
That's the exact distributor I put in my 383, BUT .... I took the points out and installed pertronix igniter 2 .... Held the unit side by side next to the no good factory one and it looked exact. Once in the car, timing set, good to go !

Well it's not exact, as the one I bought is electronic.

I've taken pics of my 1972 OEM one and the new (Chinese made, as it turns out) Cardone one side-by-side....will do a thread soon.
 
Well it's not exact, as the one I bought is electronic.

I've taken pics of my 1972 OEM one and the new (Chinese made, as it turns out) Cardone one side-by-side....will do a thread soon.
Oh man, seriously? I thought I read that Cardone was built in the US? Dang it...
 
Oh man, seriously? I thought I read that Cardone was built in the US? Dang it...

That's what I got from looking over their website too....but that's not what the decal on the box says.

Tiny little black decal in the top LH corner of the pic in post #29....
 
Well it's not exact, as the one I bought is electronic.

I've taken pics of my 1972 OEM one and the new (Chinese made, as it turns out) Cardone one side-by-side....will do a thread soon.
Hey Now, you didn't specify ! You asked if Anyone used a cardone distributor !
 
That's what I got from looking over their website too....but that's not what the decal on the box says.

Tiny little black decal in the top LH corner of the pic in post #29....


No the box was just made in China...LOL
 
Just did this. Easy install less than an hour works great. Also used the recommend coil.
If mine had come with an original points type distributor, I'd have happily done the Petronix thing.
It didn't. :-(
 
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