Ignition Starter Switch Problems

[Markzilla88]

Hey guys. So my original problem was that my starter switch on my 73 Charger 318 was bad. Car would crank all day long by turning the key, sometimes it would start, sometimes it wouldn't. You would have to find that "Sweet Spot". However, Car would start every single time if you jumped the started solenoid under the hood.
Went and got a new Ignition starter switch, pulled the column apart and reinstalled. I placed the red and black wires on the new switch into what seemed to be the correct ports, red to red and black to black, and the two red wires coming from the key lock went into the same ports they were installed on with the old harness. I went to go start it after, and got nothing. Not even a crank of the engine this time. I tried starting the car by jumping the starter solenoid and again it worked.
Here are some things I noticed from the car after installing the new ignition switch.
-Dome light dims when trying to start by key
-Voltmeter drops to the "D" position when trying to start
-Blinkers no longer work
-Horn works, but it sounds like its struggling badly and the voltmeter drops significantly when you hit the horn

Im looking for any help on this to resolve my issue because I am beyond lost. Many thanks in advanced

 

[PP1RT]

Sounds like a bad switch.

 

[badlite]

Sounds like you have dead short when turning key. I suggest checking wiring in steering column and bulkhead connector to solonoid for short.

 

[Markzilla88]

When looking for a short in the wiring, what am I looking for?

Also ive never heard the term dead short, what does that mean? Sorry for sounding inexpierenced, but I am just that when it comes to all this stuff so I'm trying to learn on the fly.
Thanks again for the quick response

 

[PP1RT]

Bare wires touching metal would be a dead short. The power goes through the body to ground instead of going thru the circuit you want it to ground. Heat and smoke generally follows if shorted too long.

 

[Dennis H]

IF your car has a bulkhead connector on the firewall, carefully unplug it and clean it with electrical contact cleaner. Re install. Just for good measure. Handle carefully and spray until it runs clean.

 

[idrivemopar]

Double check the ground wire on the steering column to dash frame, make sure it has good contact and isn't broken.

 

[Markzilla88]

idrivemopar or anyone else for that matter, if you have a picture of the ground wire on the steering column to dash frame on your ride I could reference I would GREATLY appreciate it! I lowered the column while doing all this and disconnected a few wires from the column to dash and cant figure out where and how they go back... One of the black wires I pulled down is broken as well (I has two circle electrical connectors on it that a bolt would fit in). I should have taken pictures, and now I see why everyone says that, but after working on it in the sun and 95 degree weather with no breeze for 7 hours the heat was getting to me and I was getting frustrated and mad and just wanted to get it done... Now I know to just call it quits and cool down and get back to it later.

Another issue that has arrisen, and Ill end up starting another thread for it, is the car is a column shift, but will not drop into 1st gear. Once it hits 2nd, the shifter will not go any further down and click into 1st. Dont know if maybe the steering shaft rotated while I was working on it and that may have changed things, but thats my next problem once I get the car to start properly.

 

[idrivemopar]

Here is the column ground wire, this is on my 73 RR, but I believe is the same on 73 Charger. Mine was the same way before restore, it was broken.

 

[Markzilla88]

I just put the column ground wire up and still get nothing from the car when i try to start it with the key. Any further ideas??

 

[Markzilla88]

Quick update,

I took the steering column apart again and re-installed the old ignition starter switch. I got absolutely nothing again, just like when I installed the new switch. Im going to trace the wires from the switch to the coupling, then from the coupling to I guess the solenoid and where ever else it goes. Besides broken wiring, is there something I should be looking for? Fuses? Anything else that could go bad down stream?

Car will start if I jump the starter solenoid

 

[dieseldazzle]

Bypass the NSS and see if it starts.

 

[Jackpot50]

Just ground the Neutral start switch at it the starter relay and see if it will start.

 

[69Runner]

Another issue that has arrisen, and Ill end up starting another thread for it, is the car is a column shift, but will not drop into 1st gear. Once it hits 2nd, the shifter will not go any further down and click into 1st. Dont know if maybe the steering shaft rotated while I was working on it and that may have changed things, but thats my next problem once I get the car to start properly.

If that's the case, then it's possible you are trying to crank it with the transmission in Reverse. Try shifting to D (hypothetically N) and see if it cranks.

I'm not familiar with wiring for your year but a dead short would potentially have blown a fuse, red wires typically will not have any continuity to ground. Or you should see pretty close to full battery potential when measuring VDC from a red wire to a good ground.

 

[mobileparts]

If it is NOT the Starter Switch -- don't forget, it is a MOPAR ---- check the ballast resistor!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[440roadrunner]

I'm still trynna figure out what a "starter switch" is..............

Mopars have an "ignition switch"

..........a "starter relay"

..........a "starter solenoid"

..........a "neutral safety switch" if they are an automatic

..........a "clutch safety" if they are a 70/ later stick "some models"

Now, '48 GMC pickups have a "starter switch". It's the thing the foot knob actuates down there on the floor, and it's mounted on the starter...........

 

[mopar 3 B]

If it is NOT the Starter Switch -- don't forget, it is a MOPAR ---- check the ballast resistor!!!!!!!!!!!

That balllast is an ignition component and has nothing to do with the starter circuit.

 

[69Runner]

That balllast is an ignition component and has nothing to do with the starter circuit.

X2 ballast is bypassed when cranking

 

[Markzilla88]

Another update: I re-installed the new ignition switch, I tried starting it with the column apart and sure enough it worked. I put the column all back together, tightened everything up really well, and tried it again, got nothing... I took it apart once more and tried putting it back together step by step and testing after each little component is put in. So far ive gotten everything put back together minus attaching the wheel itself, and have the cradle bolts for the column itself secure but not torqued down crazy tight, but I can only get it to crank in neutral.
When the column was apart and I had only installed the ignition switch, it would start in Park gear and idle, but now like I mentioned I can only get it to crank in Neutral. It does sputter right away like it wants to start but wont keep the momentum going to keep it running. I then tried to jump the starter solenoid under the hood and can get it to crank continuously but it wont fire, even with starter fluid.

Anyone have anymore ideas here for me?

 

[Jackpot50]

you will have to run a hot to coil to start under hood at relay, if switch is off.