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AMD quarter skin vs full quarter.

Tzclark

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6:37 PM
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Hey guys, this is my first post here. I just purchased a roadrunner in need of some surgery. It needs new quarters, outer wheels houses and trunk extensions. I went on AMDs site today and looked up parts and noticed they have a full quarter and a quarter skin. I only need from body line down. Other than the obvious that I can see, what's the difference? image.jpg

I just brought it home today and my 5 year old daughter told me to take it back, it's in rough shape.
 
really comes down to personal choice
full = more money
partial = probably more work splicing
full is probably better overall job
knowing that you don't have a splice to hide.
i end up going full for this one reason
no matter how well you do a splice,
it almost always will come back to haunt you down the road.

don't buy from amd directly, you will pay more.
there are bulk discounters like 521 restorations that can get you
a much better quote then on ebay
shopping around will save you loot
 
The best way for me to explain the difference is you either pay more up front and do less work later or pay less and do more work! With a full quarter it literally installs as the originals did with only spot welds at all of the factory pinch points and the roof seam meaning no chance of warping the metal and a quicker install. I'd recommend full quarters to a novice metal worker like myself haha........ mine were pretty straight forward and easy to install.
 
The rear half of the car when you get full quarters, deck filler, window brackets, trunk pan, lower rear window frame and parts, taillight panel, cross member brace and tail light ext. frames..etc is slightly over 3000.00
 
747 spoke with magic word full quarter is far less work! Splicing means mud work and postmore issues with seam expansion and contracts during hot weather. Make your life easier!
 
Who do you guys recommend for supplier?

In my case I was checking out an AMD display that Stephens Performance had setup at a local Mopar show and took advantage of the free shipping they had as a show special. If you do the math on 2 full quarters, tail light panel, Dutchmen panel, etc it was a significant savings so looking for a show special is a good option otherwise I love Summit Racing and have never been disappointed in their customer service.
 
Who do you guys recommend for supplier?

Jeff@521Restorations. Mention you are a member here and he will give you an extra discount from his already great prices and awesome service. Also if you have a big order and pay him with a money order or cashiers check, he will deduct the 2% that a credit card would charge him.
 
Thanks guys, I am north of the 49 and our dollar is in the toilet. A full quarter is almost 900 up here right now. Just checking my options before I buy local. On my last few projects I supported my local guy but this mopar stuff seems to be sprinkled with gold dust. Either way I would prefer to support a local shop but only if they are in the same ballpark. It's only money. :)
 
I'll second 521. I got a fuel tank built in Canada cheaper through him than I could up here! But I use a storage house in Montana and a friend goes down regularly and picks stuff up. It's way cheaper shipping within the U.S.A. than crossing the border and having the brokerage fees added on.
 
You did try Hot Rods and Classics in Chilliwack? They usually treat me right....
 
I'll third 521.

Bought my 1/4s wheel houses, extensions, dutchman and other parts from them.
Service is excellent and prices are hard to beat.
 
I have bought from hot rods and classics lots. Just doing my research and making sure it's all good.
 
I'd try to keep as much OE-metal as possible. I don't see the need of a full quarter on your project... We installed a quarter skin on my 69 Coronet project, it was a good fit.
 
I'd try to keep as much OE-metal as possible. I don't see the need of a full quarter on your project... We installed a quarter skin on my 69 Coronet project, it was a good fit.

Thats exactly what the guy doing my bodywork said. Save a fair chunk as well in labour and materials.
 
I have done both skins and full quarters. It boils down to do you want a 12 inch seam or a 5 footer to weld. I find it much easier to weld a roof seam and do spot welds like the factory than a 5 foot weld. There you chance warping if not very careful and a full quarter is a lot quicker to do. But like every one says it is cost, experience and what you want for your car. My 68 only has rust out behind the rear wheels but I am doing full quarters. I think it is stronger and way less filler and grinding work. My 2 cents only!
 
I have done both skins and full quarters. It boils down to do you want a 12 inch seam or a 5 footer to weld. I find it much easier to weld a roof seam and do spot welds like the factory than a 5 foot weld. There you chance warping if not very careful and a full quarter is a lot quicker to do. But like every one says it is cost, experience and what you want for your car. My 68 only has rust out behind the rear wheels but I am doing full quarters. I think it is stronger and way less filler and grinding work. My 2 cents only!

Thanks Dreamcatcher , you make some good points. I will have to re-consider my quarter skin plans......................MO
 
South west Iowa? I had a shop for a while in Nemaha,NE just across the river from Rock Port ,MO
 
Thanks for the advice, I switched to full quarters.
 
South west Iowa? I had a shop for a while in Nemaha,NE just across the river from Rock Port ,MO

Yep, I am not to far from Rock Port. We used to go down there for the old fiddlers reunion years ago........................MO

- - - Updated - - -

I talked to a body man today , and still wondering what to do. He said to replace a full quarter, the rear window has to come out. He also said that on the same car, he had replaced a full quarter on one side and a skin on the other. He claims the skin took much less time, but I don't know if that included the filler-finish work.........................MO
 
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