Engine Break In Process

[Mopar-Charger]

bring RPM right up to 2000 rpm, keep RPMs moving between 2000-3000 rpm, do not idle and do not go under 2000 rpm. Do this for 20-30 min. This is to break in the cam, the cam's only oiling is from splash oiling
First time breaking in a new motor.

I have oil + additive in the motor and ready to fire.

What do you guy suggest for a break in? Here's what I found. Any thoughts?

Have a buddy out there with you, checking for leaks, probs, etc

Once the 20-30 break in is down, shut her down, drain oil out and change oil and filter

Use same type of oil and zinc as before now your ready for your 500 miles.. But on 1st drive you need to load engine some to help seat the rings. Find and open road, going about 20 mph get on the throttle pretty good up to 50 mph, then back off all the way and let it coast down to about 20, then on throttle hard again to about 50 mph, coast back down to 20... Do that about 8 to 10 times

Then for rest of 500 miles dont dog it, but dont baby it.

At 500 miles change oil and filter again.

Thanks

 

[uwss]

HR break in oil; run it for 20 minutes at 2500 rpm plus or minus. Of course check for leaks. Be sure you check your oil pan bolts. They will loosen up. Pull spark plugs and check for rich or lean. Drain oil, new oil filter and I run HR break in a second time for 500 miles.

After that you can run Royal Purple or HR race oil both will work just fine. I use Evans coolant, Royal purple in tranny and rear end.

I use a IR temperature gun to check header temps on each exhaust; I want to know if there is a huge difference in exhaust temps.
Finally, be sure to tighten your header bolts and recheck oil pan, etc.

That's the way I do,

 

[eldubb440]

just did one on a sbc....... biggest thing is to make sure you are ready to run uninterrupted.

cooling system in place with a gauge, i always have a garden hose ready to cool the radiator just in case.

i do my best to set the rotor pointing at #1 with the timing mark at 10-15 BTDC. fires right up!

fill float bowls prior to cranking, dump a little gas down the throat or a few good pumps of the accelerator.

i also prefer some sort of muffler on the exhaust so as to hear what is going on.

 

[69Bee]

I recommend you DRAIN out the "colored water" (todays oil), and the additive, then put in a proper break-in oil with all of the necessary items already mixed. My feeling is that for the first few minutes required for the oil and additive to mix, are the MOST important. The proper break-in oil, and followed up by the proper oil for continued operation are high zinc oils. Just because you break-in the motor does not mean you can just put regular "plain" oil in and expect the motor to continue to be protected. The only name drop is Joe Gibbs oil products because that is what I sell and use myself. NEVER had a problem yet.

 

[khryslerkid]

Prime the engine first with a priming rod, turning the engine so oil comes up into rocker shafts, one side then the other...

 

[Mopar-Charger]

Prime the engine first with a priming rod, turning the engine so oil comes up into rocker shafts, one side then the other...

DOne that already!

I'm going to start it, break the cam in first, and if all goes well finish the break after.

My biggest worry is a leak, or something stopping the break in process. I've checked and double checked everything. So wish me luck.

I'm using the Competition Cams 159 Engine Break-In Oil Additive

 

[Homstead]

Rotella T 15-40 and comp cams 159 is what I use. Never had a problem with break in. I'm sure the break in oils are really good too. If you have to stop the break in procedure, get whatever is going on fixed and continue on. Its better not to stop, but if its over heating or leaking you have to get those fixed asap. Good luck on the break in!

 

[Mopar-Charger]

Rotella T 15-40 and comp cams 159 is what I use. Never had a problem with break in. I'm sure the break in oils are really good too. If you have to stop the break in procedure, get whatever is going on fixed and continue on. Its better not to stop, but if its over heating or leaking you have to get those fixed asap. Good luck on the break in!

Haha thank you.

Just ran it, throttle cable broke right out of the gate. Jerry rigged it to keep moving. Did a bunch of runs, high RPMS then let it idle down.

Engine ran great, I was chasing a vibration for the longest time. Ended up being the torque converter unbalanced on a 360 (horrible). Now with the neutral balanced need of the 318 it was so smooth.

Just some fine tuning and a new throttle cable and she'll be tearing up the streets once again.

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When I came home, there was a cop waiting for me at the gate! I didn't even stop (break in procedure officer...).

 

[reeltime]

I am with 69 Bee. Use Joe Gibbs BR break in oil,I use Jomar oil filters from Hughes Engines ( they have no by pass ) so no particles can get to bearings !
Prime engine before startup while turning it over by hand and checking valve train oiling.I like to run engines longer with break in oil before changing. Then use nothing but Joe Gibbs oil suitable with your engine. Gibbs oil has all the zinc etc. that others have removed in it. You must use this oil with flat tappet
cams or be ready to pay a big price on failure !