Bruzilla
Well-Known Member
I was wondering about the line cut into the damper shown below. What does it represent? I'm trying to find timing marks on my damper and that's the only mark I see.
Damper Mark
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gdrill
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That is a timing mark I do believe. Info below........it is referred to in the "Bullet nose" description.
http://www.440source.com/dampers.htm
http://www.440source.com/dampers.htm
Bruzilla
Well-Known Member
That's the pic I used, but the description doesn't say what the mark is for.
gdrill
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That's true, but in the description below it refers to the timing mark which is the only one cut all the way through.
texas69bee
Well-Known Member
Just a guess... If the keyway is positioned at roughly 2 o'clock, which would be close to TDC and the timing tab off to the left, then the line should line up at 0deg on your tab.
It represents the TDC mark to line up on the timing tab on the timing cover.
Bruzilla
Well-Known Member
So with the line and 0 deg mark on the tab lined up, the rotor should be pointing at the number one cylinder of the distributor cap regardless of which one is marked 1 on the cap itself?
My 400 has the degrees on the timing chain cover and the line on the balancer is zero. For setting timing have someone bump it over with your thumb over #1 plug hole until you feel compression, bring it to about 20 btdc and line the #1 plug terminal up with the rotor. If working by yourself I just pull the valve cover and make sure both valves are closed as it approaches tdc, if the exhaust valve is open your 180 out.
Your correct, rotor has to point to the terminal where the #1 plug wire is. If you want it tobe correct you'll just have to pull the distributor and fart around until you get the gear set in the right place but it means nothing as far as running goes.
Your correct, rotor has to point to the terminal where the #1 plug wire is. If you want it tobe correct you'll just have to pull the distributor and fart around until you get the gear set in the right place but it means nothing as far as running goes.
YY1
Well-Known Member
I like to paint the recess in that line white, so I can see it easier.
I just line up #1, and if I'm 180* off, I "just" pull the distributor and put it in 180* around.
Lots easier than pulling and resealing a valve cover and/or relying on others.
I just line up #1, and if I'm 180* off, I "just" pull the distributor and put it in 180* around.
Lots easier than pulling and resealing a valve cover and/or relying on others.
I'm never 180 out, do it right the first time and avoid causing yourself more work. Don't know about you guys but when I hit the ignition switch the first time I leave nothing to guess about and 100% expect it to fire and run properly.
- - - Updated - - -
Don't want to pull the valve cover than put your thumb over the #1 plug hole.
My take on it. Find tdc with a tdc tool, modified spark plug, etc and if the mark is at tdc then great. If not, Mark the balancer to your timing tab so it is correct. Not saying I trust the factory mark......but I don't trust the factory mark lol.
miller
Well-Known Member
On the distributor caps I've seen with #1 marked...there's a tab/slot on the flange of the cap, so it only goes on the dizzy one way. Just keep in mind, with all the stuff mounted around the dizzy, you want it in place so you have a turning range. Just means you want room to rotate the dizzy, to time it, without hitting any hoses, etc..
TDC compression stroke, drop the dizzy in, with room to rotate it.
TDC compression stroke, drop the dizzy in, with room to rotate it.
Yes. It doesn't matter where the distributor rotor is pointing as long as TDC on #1 and the wires follow in the firing order in the proper direction. The biggest hindrance is any contact with the vac adv.
miller
Well-Known Member
What 69Bee said. Bru...might try this...
Working on a BB? 440?
Anyway, this works on the BBs. Pull distributor cap. Pull distributor. Don't know if you have plug wires on cap.
Okay. The mark, or slot, on the dampner is the timing mark, that matches with the timing tab on the timing chain cover.
With spark plugs out, to make it easy to rotate the motor by hand, a socket or wrench on the crank/dampner bolt. Turn the motor until the timing mark on the dampner is in line with 0 on the timing tab.
That puts #1 at TDC...but compression, or exhaust stroke? Using a flashlight, look in the distributor 'hole' in the block. You should be able to see both #1 tappets, on the driver side of the motor. Using the wrench, move the crank back and forth a little, watching those two tappets. No movement...compression stroke. Little movement from both...exhaust stroke. If it's on exhaust stroke, rotate the crank/dampner one full turn, and look again. That will put #1 on compression stroke.
Once the motor is at #1 TDC Compression Stroke, then turn the motor in REVERSE, getting the dampner mark past the timing tab. That will take out the chain slack, when you go to the right rotation. In that right rotation, bring the timing mark to...the firing timing...5,10, or whatever you want. Understand the firing mark is Before TDC, in those degrees.
Now, your ready to install the dizzy. Normally the rotor kinda points toward #1 cylinder, with the advance in a clear area, for rotating the dizzy housing for timing.
Whatever kind of dizzy you have, look at the rotor/breaker, and set the dizzy in so the rotor is just coming, in it's rotation, just to the breaker. Distributor in, where the rotor is pointing, is where #1 plug wire needs to go.
Working on a BB? 440?
Anyway, this works on the BBs. Pull distributor cap. Pull distributor. Don't know if you have plug wires on cap.
Okay. The mark, or slot, on the dampner is the timing mark, that matches with the timing tab on the timing chain cover.
With spark plugs out, to make it easy to rotate the motor by hand, a socket or wrench on the crank/dampner bolt. Turn the motor until the timing mark on the dampner is in line with 0 on the timing tab.
That puts #1 at TDC...but compression, or exhaust stroke? Using a flashlight, look in the distributor 'hole' in the block. You should be able to see both #1 tappets, on the driver side of the motor. Using the wrench, move the crank back and forth a little, watching those two tappets. No movement...compression stroke. Little movement from both...exhaust stroke. If it's on exhaust stroke, rotate the crank/dampner one full turn, and look again. That will put #1 on compression stroke.
Once the motor is at #1 TDC Compression Stroke, then turn the motor in REVERSE, getting the dampner mark past the timing tab. That will take out the chain slack, when you go to the right rotation. In that right rotation, bring the timing mark to...the firing timing...5,10, or whatever you want. Understand the firing mark is Before TDC, in those degrees.
Now, your ready to install the dizzy. Normally the rotor kinda points toward #1 cylinder, with the advance in a clear area, for rotating the dizzy housing for timing.
Whatever kind of dizzy you have, look at the rotor/breaker, and set the dizzy in so the rotor is just coming, in it's rotation, just to the breaker. Distributor in, where the rotor is pointing, is where #1 plug wire needs to go.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
IMO, if you follow the service manual using stock items, I think you'll find #1 on the distributor always ends up in the same spot. In that case it should assure you the necessary clearance for the stock components. Aftermarket distributors may or may not have the same pump drive to rotor index. Different heads or intakes can also affect clearance.
Do yourself a favor on the damper. Once you determine exact TDC and mark it, add a mark to the inner hub that coincides with the TDC mark on your outer ring. It will be a quick reference to any slip.
Do yourself a favor on the damper. Once you determine exact TDC and mark it, add a mark to the inner hub that coincides with the TDC mark on your outer ring. It will be a quick reference to any slip.
Something I did that I really liked was after confirming tdc I bought a timing tape (have to get the right one for the diameter of balancer) and installed it lined up with the 0 mark on the cover. It just makes reading a lot easier with the yellow tape and bold black print?
miller
Well-Known Member
#1 doesn't wind up same place everytime.
What determines that is how the oil pump/dist drive gear is put in. The gear/slot can easily be rotated to where it should be, by lifting it clear of the cam gear, rotating it, putting it back in. Yes, book shows how it 'should' be located.
What determines that is how the oil pump/dist drive gear is put in. The gear/slot can easily be rotated to where it should be, by lifting it clear of the cam gear, rotating it, putting it back in. Yes, book shows how it 'should' be located.
Paint is a good tip. If you're by yourself, use a remote starter to bump motor over with your finger over the #1 plug hole. Two wire hook-up to the starter relay.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
I agree.
You know, another thread somewhere brought out a problem of timing tape not staying on the damper. He was looking for a way to degree the damper other than timing tape. I wonder if when using timing tape, if one were to go over it with one wrap of that clear Gorilla packaging tape, might it last?
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