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Coolant Recommendations?

Thanks Bigman. I drained the engine also and checked with a refractometer so It was installed correctly. I just ordered the biggest single fan I could find (17") and the radiator is a brand new AFCO so I should be good there. I'm fine with higher temperatures, just don't know how high is "allowable for a built 440.
Will check back after installing new fan, removing thermostat, and reinstalling the Evans. I would to keep using the Evan for piece of mind.
 
My buddy runs the Evans in his car and from what he said you have to be sure to get all the water out of your car as you dont want to mix and water with the Evans. I dont know much about Evans but I heard it boils at a much higher temp then water but myself I have not used it. My buddies car has been fine with it. I just use the normal green anti-freeze and water at a 50/50 mix with no problems. Ron
 
Thanks for the responce 383man. New fan came in and I have reinstalled Evans and removed thermostat so we will see how it goes. It was fine before I "fixed it"

Fingers crossed.
 
Finally. Now running 185 - 190. Lets hope all stays well when hot weather hits.
 
Well everyone.....sorry to piss on your parade, but I am literally an antifreeze chemist. I analyze & test antifreeze from competitors and invent new antifreezes for a living. I supply the largest antifreeze manufacturers in the world and many other small ones you've never heard of. I've done extensive testing on Evans, Water Wetter, you name it...I've tested it.

First, I will begin with, "What's in antifreeze?". This is a very basic overview & not 100% correct, but it makes the point. Antifreeze is roughly 45% water, 45% ethylene glycol & 10% corrosion inhibitor & misc. additives. Water conducts heat (cools your engine) WAY better than ethylene glycol (NASCAR uses only water + corrosion inhibitor). The problem with water is that it freezes & it causes metals to corrode (rust). The ethylene glycol is added to prevent freezing & the corrosion inhibitors are added to prevent rust (copper, aluminum, brass, steel, cast iron, solder are the typical test metals). Most antifreeze tests very well against preventing corrosion vs. all of these metals, though some may be slightly better vs. aluminum & others slightly better vs. cast iron....but all pretty good.

Any by the way, color means NOTHING. It's just a dye. All antifreeze ranges from water/clear to light beer color until the dye is added. We supply exactly the same formula in 4 different colors to one very, very major antifreeze manufacturer that everybody knows.... only difference is the dye.

Now for some inside information.......

Evans "waterless" coolant contains water. It about 1% by weight on the sample I've tested. The owner of Evans told me their specification is < 3% water & at a recent industry meeting, he pushed to raise that limit to <5% water & still be able to call it "waterless". The main idea with Evans is "without water, metals can't rust"....but it has water in it, so metal still rusts. The BIG negative is that ethylene glycol (90+% of Evans) doesn't conduct heat (cool your engine) nearly as well as water. It's just like running "coolant concentrate" by mistake instead of "50/50". I did that once in a Trans Am and that car ran really hot. If you go to water-only (e.g. distilled water + corrosion inhibitor & no ethylene glycol at all) the engine will run at least 20-degrees farenheit cooler (assuming the thermostat will allow that to happen).

On that note, Water Wetter is basically a bottle of corrosion inhibitor + some surfactant. The main "hype" about Water Wetter is that it that it lowers the surface tension of water so it can get into more intimate contact with your cooling system and transfer heat better. BOLONY! It's the fact that you took the ethylene glycol out of your cooling system that makes the difference. If you dump it on top of 50/50 antifreeze your engine will not run any cooler...I've tested this in the laboratory & on the street. I've also tested the surface tension and it's not that low (many other similar products & many standard antifreezes have lower surface tension that Water Wetter). Also, Water Wetter does VERY poorly at preventing corrosion on aluminum....good on steel & cast iron...but poor vs. aluminum. So, if you have aluminum heads, don't use it, but OK with cast iron heads. From my own testing, Purple Ice (Royal Purple) & Lucas Super Coolant actually do much better vs. aluminum protection.
 
Are you saying that Purple Ice and Lucas is better if you have aluminum heads? If so, is there a ratio/mixture?

BTW-Good read on your post PurpleBeeper
 
Are you saying that Purple Ice and Lucas is better if you have aluminum heads? If so, is there a ratio/mixture?

BTW-Good read on your post PurpleBeeper

Yes, that is what I'm saying. If you have aluminum heads run Lucas or Royal Purple instead of Water Wetter. For cast iron heads, Water Wetter is just fine. Follow the mix ratio on the side of the bottle. For example, Royal Purple says "for water-only/racing use 2 ounces per quart", in other words... use 8 ounces per gallon of cooling capacity. 8 ounces is a cup. Get a measuring cup & several gallons of DISTILLED water. Open a gallon of distilled water, pour out one cup of water, replace it with one cup of Lucas/Royal Purple/Water Wetter & mix slightly....that's one gallon of coolant. I think my Roadrunner holds maybe 3 or 3-1/2 gallons, so you need more than one bottle of Lucas/Royal Purple/Water Wetter. If you don't get the mixture exact you'll be fine, just get it close. Your engine will run cooler. The only way it won't is if you've got a 180 thermostat & it already runs right at 180....you can't get any cooler 'cause the thermostat won't let you... but otherwise, your engine will run cooler.
 
Thanks for the info PurpleBeeper.

BTW- in the process of putting my radiator in soon. I do have a 180* thermostat. Just have to put everything together
 
Interesting thing is the Evans product prevents corrosion when you have aluminum heads and or any other types of metals together. For about a week I diligently checked the top tank with a magnet, swimming the magnet around on a solid piece or wire, pulling out small bits of iron that was dislodged from the block, after a week it stopped but that told me the old mix of ice and wetter, distilled water and all of that was still rusting and destroying my block. Not any more with the Evans. I think a lot of people get stuck on the physical numbers on a guage. When I ran water, and the ice products and got stuck in stop and go traffic one day the temps getting to 220° I could feel the motor bogging down losing its power from being so hot, I'm sure the pressure was high and the overflow was catching the blow out. That showed me that 220 was a mark of an overheat, so anything near it rings the alarm bells and you pull over or get out of traffic somehow right? well I have seen this same temp with the Evans except the difference is no bog no loss of power. Like they say if you have issues already waterless coolant is not going to fix them. but starting off with a good system or changing to a more efficient system just helps even more. That's why after all the research using a good 2 row with 1" to 1-1/4" tubes with a thematically controlled set of fans like most all modern cars do not is the best option with Evans. I personally like having a "lifetime" coolant. and it has gotten less expensive now as well. I check the water content now everytime I do an oil change just like routine maintenance and its less than 1% now. The problem I have with this statement "The main idea with Evans is "without water, metals can't rust"....but it has water in it, so metal still rusts. The BIG negative is that ethylene glycol (90+% of Evans) doesn't conduct heat (cool your engine) nearly as well as water. It's just like running "coolant concentrate" by mistake instead of "50/50"." Is you left out the fact that Evans has no pressure like water when temps get to 110 or more. Also if you have less than 1% of water content or the recommended 3% or less the "rusting" you mention is so slow if any that you never see it like you would with conventional 50/50 mixes. and you are wrong about the heat transfer or "doesn't conduct heat (cool your engine) nearly as well as water" this is a false statement, the evans conducts or "transfers" or carries the heat away from the cylinder walls to the radiator way better than water for the simple fact that for every 1° of increase in temps the water is getting more and more to the steam stage and starts losing its supposed superior heat transfer whereas the evans just keeps doing its job without any change. That alone should convince everyone to make the change. There are mixes out there that now claim 50k miles before you have to change it, which is great. but where are the details for those products like how long does each of the 3 main ingredients last? is it just the corrosion inhibs that last 50k? is it the antifreeze? is it the water? I would guess to say that at least 1 of the 3 ingredients will wear out way before 50k and its more of a marketing gimmick. Where is the science facts for this 50k stuff that show us what Evans has been able to do? To each his own but I will say this if your were pissing on anything it was you own shoes, sorry m8 Evans wins the science and field testing prove it.
 
Two years ago I recored my 26" rad with a Hi efficiency core, shroud, 7 blade factory steel fan, 180 hi flow stat, 4 gallons of EVANS coolant. running a 493 aluminum head pump gas wedge. I've run Evans from day one of this build .been stuck in bump to bump traffic no problemo. I love the fact that I can shut this thing down, open the hood and hit the pressure relief valve on the radiator cap and all I get is the swoosh of opening up a can of soda ! no pressure ,no swollen hoses .no overflow, no mess.
When this motor needs freshening up i'll drain it, save it and reuse it. I never have to buy anti freeze/ coolant ever again
 
So how hard if any, on a aluminum radiator is a 50/50 mix?
The thing I wouldn't like about Evans is if you happen to have a leak while out on a drive, you would have to have more Evans along with you or call a tow truck. If useing 50/50 all you need is water after you make the repair to get you home.
I thought I read somewhere that the tracks don't like the Evans to cleanup either?
 
that's funny, if you have a leak and what it all leaks out? you concern doesn't make much sense, if you have a leak and only some leaks out are you still driving? with evans or water the answer is yes, or are you saying if you have a total loss of coolant than you can refill with water to get home? lmao if you have a leak that bad how could you just use the magic water to get you home without it leaking right back out? You guys kill me lol
 
Well everyone.....sorry to piss on your parade, but I am literally an antifreeze chemist. I analyze & test antifreeze from competitors and invent new antifreezes for a living. I supply the largest antifreeze manufacturers in the world and many other small ones you've never heard of. I've done extensive testing on Evans, Water Wetter, you name it...I've tested it.

First, I will begin with, "What's in antifreeze?". This is a very basic overview & not 100% correct, but it makes the point. Antifreeze is roughly 45% water, 45% ethylene glycol & 10% corrosion inhibitor & misc. additives. Water conducts heat (cools your engine) WAY better than ethylene glycol (NASCAR uses only water + corrosion inhibitor). The problem with water is that it freezes & it causes metals to corrode (rust). The ethylene glycol is added to prevent freezing & the corrosion inhibitors are added to prevent rust (copper, aluminum, brass, steel, cast iron, solder are the typical test metals). Most antifreeze tests very well against preventing corrosion vs. all of these metals, though some may be slightly better vs. aluminum & others slightly better vs. cast iron....but all pretty good.

Any by the way, color means NOTHING. It's just a dye. All antifreeze ranges from water/clear to light beer color until the dye is added. We supply exactly the same formula in 4 different colors to one very, very major antifreeze manufacturer that everybody knows.... only difference is the dye.

Now for some inside information.......

Evans "waterless" coolant contains water. It about 1% by weight on the sample I've tested. The owner of Evans told me their specification is < 3% water & at a recent industry meeting, he pushed to raise that limit to <5% water & still be able to call it "waterless". The main idea with Evans is "without water, metals can't rust"....but it has water in it, so metal still rusts. The BIG negative is that ethylene glycol (90+% of Evans) doesn't conduct heat (cool your engine) nearly as well as water. It's just like running "coolant concentrate" by mistake instead of "50/50". I did that once in a Trans Am and that car ran really hot. If you go to water-only (e.g. distilled water + corrosion inhibitor & no ethylene glycol at all) the engine will run at least 20-degrees farenheit cooler (assuming the thermostat will allow that to happen).

On that note, Water Wetter is basically a bottle of corrosion inhibitor + some surfactant. The main "hype" about Water Wetter is that it that it lowers the surface tension of water so it can get into more intimate contact with your cooling system and transfer heat better. BOLONY! It's the fact that you took the ethylene glycol out of your cooling system that makes the difference. If you dump it on top of 50/50 antifreeze your engine will not run any cooler...I've tested this in the laboratory & on the street. I've also tested the surface tension and it's not that low (many other similar products & many standard antifreezes have lower surface tension that Water Wetter). Also, Water Wetter does VERY poorly at preventing corrosion on aluminum....good on steel & cast iron...but poor vs. aluminum. So, if you have aluminum heads, don't use it, but OK with cast iron heads. From my own testing, Purple Ice (Royal Purple) & Lucas Super Coolant actually do much better vs. aluminum protection.
Thanks for the inside info, just proves my suspicions were correct all along. Same goes with a lot of oils with Valvoline and others offering Auto Parts namebrand oils cheaper.

I've only ever ran the conventional green antifreeze and never had a problem.... if it ran hot I addressed the real problem instead of turning to some voodoo coolant. 185 all day long all year long because my radiator, fan and tune is up to it.
 
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Evans is not "voodoo" coolant that is absurd even EVANS says do not use their product if you have existing issues. and like I said to each his own but purples info is wrong, don't want to believe it then so be it. the use of Evans is only for those who want to prolong their motors and never have to change their coolant or deal with a future issue. good luck with your simple green
 
Evans is not "voodoo" coolant that is absurd even EVANS says do not use their product if you have existing issues. and like I said to each his own but purples info is wrong, don't want to believe it then so be it. the use of Evans is only for those who want to prolong their motors and never have to change their coolant or deal with a future issue. good luck with your simple green

Sorry bigman, but YOU ARE 100% INCORRECT. I don't know what to tell you.... I'm not making this stuff up.... you can lead a horse to water (pun intended). Maybe you'll believe some engineers instead of an antifreeze chemist?

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethylene-glycol-d_146.html

http://www.dow.com/heattrans/pdfs/DispellingTheMyths.pdf

The key factors are thermal conductivity & heat capacity.
 
and to answer another question.... yes, some coolants on the market are guaranteed for 1,000,000 miles now (Peak's Final Charge heavy duty coolant).

1. Water does not break down in an engine
2. Ethylene glycol slowly breaks down into formic acid and glycolic acid. Neither of these are good, but levels only get into the danger zone when using some recycled antifreezes.
3. Corrosion inhibitors are what wears out the fastest. Ask a semi-truck drive about "SCA" (supplemental coolant additives) which replace sodium nitrite and or sodium molybdate dihydrate.
 
that's funny, if you have a leak and what it all leaks out? you concern doesn't make much sense, if you have a leak and only some leaks out are you still driving? with evans or water the answer is yes, or are you saying if you have a total loss of coolant than you can refill with water to get home? lmao if you have a leak that bad how could you just use the magic water to get you home without it leaking right back out? You guys kill me lol
I'm glad you find my question and comments so amusing!
 
I'll stick to replacing conventional coolant ever other year.
You seem like a guy who sticks to a lot of things, you short comments remind me of the guys that stand around with their arms crossed frowning at everything they don't like. lol The last cars and coffee show I went to a few of us here lined up our mopars near an older crowd of 1915-30's type cars a row over and these 80-90 year old guys walked by me and my bud and where like the grumpiest old men ever lol complaining about those dam muscle cars grump grump dag nab it!
 
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