Frame Connectors

[1969 beep beep]

I am in the process of doing a complete nut & bolt resto on my 69 Roadrunner 383 hardtop. I currently have it on a rotisserie. I am putting the car back to factory specs except for the motor. The car may have a drag radial down the road, and really it is only street driven.

I plan on using my 600hp low deck stroker for now but down the road I may put the original 383 back in it. I have done research on frame connectors and I purchased a set of US CAR Tool connectors. I really like how they look once welded in.

I am now thinking maybe I should forget about installing them. I was worried about them affecting the end car value? What do you guys think?

 

[Kern Dog]

You are concerned about reducing the value of a 383 Road Runner? They are great cars but not exactly rare unless it is a Pilot car, an unusual 999 color, a very late build or really oddly optioned. If this was an A-12 or a Hemi car that was restored to Concourse condition, that would be different.
Besides....WHat are the chances that you will sell it? Maybe the car will stay with you until you are too old to drive it? By then, who cares what the next owner thinks! Build the car the way that YOU want.

 

[AMX364]

The US Car Tool frame connectors are welded in and look like they are factory. They help prevent rattles, I found one rattle where you could put your hand down the door jamb and feel the gap changing while driving. Frame connectors did correct that rattle, I now use them wherever I can on Unibody cars.

 

[Dennis H]

USCartool connectors transformed the 69 Coronet. Eliminated rattles as stated above. When the 440 was warmed up, the windshield cracked all the way across the first time I romped on it. Should have put the connectors in before motor upgrades. Do it. To the untrained eye, they look factory. The trailer queen crowd can leave them off.

 

[66Satellite47]

Just my opinion. The frame connectors do make a difference. Mine are 2x3 welded into the floor pan, '70's drag style. Last week had the car on jack stands, then looked at the drivers side front, not touching the jack stand. The car is so rigid that it won't flex at all. Put the frame connectors in & be happy.

 

[66Satellite47]

BTW, from the pictures I've seen the US Car Tool frame connectors look fantastic.

 

[wasco]

Is it better to install the connectors with everything (engine/trans) installed and the car up on tire ramps or does it matter? I've seen them installed while the car is on a rotisserie but wouldn't it be better if the car is sitting on tires fully loaded to add rigidity while at a resting stance, so to speak?

 

[1967coronet440]

Is it better to install the connectors with everything (engine/trans) installed and the car up on tire ramps or does it matter? I've seen them installed while the car is on a rotisserie but wouldn't it be better if the car is sitting on tires fully loaded to add rigidity while at a resting stance, so to speak?

I was told weight of the car must be resting on the suspension. Drive up lift would be easiest way. I got my connectors on the shelf waiting for motor and trans to install

 

[Yatzee]

I am in the process of doing a complete nut & bolt resto on my 69 Roadrunner 383 hardtop. I currently have it on a rotisserie. I am putting the car back to factory specs except for the motor. The car may have a drag radial down the road, and really it is only street driven.

I plan on using my 600hp low deck stroker for now but down the road I may put the original 383 back in it. I have done research on frame connectors and I purchased a set of US CAR Tool connectors. I really like how they look once welded in.

I am now thinking maybe I should forget about installing them. I was worried about them affecting the end car value? What do you guys think?

I am not particularly fond of connectors that require you to cut the floor pans to install. I do favor connectors that are contoured to the floor pan and are secured with both welding and drop bolts and plates through the floor plan. I've actually seen a set installed that bolt in completely and are removable. These type of connectors are not to be found on line and require fabrication skills but render the car serviceable should the K-member have to be removed. I doubt you'd devalue the car having these installed, but the way and means that their put in could in fact be a detriment. Your call!

 

[eldubb440]

I was told weight of the car must be resting on the suspension. Drive up lift would be easiest way. I got my connectors on the shelf waiting for motor and trans to install

the last 4 sets I installed were all done with the car completely apart..... however, I I hung the doors and made sure they were parallel with the rockers and the door to quarter gaps were even top to bottom......

if the cars were on their suspension, I would still make sure the doors were hanging perfectly, even if I had to put a jack under the car somewhere to flex it into the perfect position

it's all about the doors lining up anyway

 

[GetX'd]

I agree with most of what's been said. Especially Kern Dog. Besides if you're building the motor to the degree you say - you're protecting your car from twisting with that much hp. Put them in and you're not detracting from your value proposition - adding to it in my opinion.

 

[Cranky]

Ragtops flex a lot more than hard tops and hard tops flex more than coupes or sedans. Main thing is to make sure the body/chassis is square and level whether or not the engine etc is in it. Unibody cars are have more rigidity than body on frame cars and if you're feeling it flex, something isn't right. Yes, with enough power, you can flex damn near anything. Even really rough roads can take a toll on them. I remember my mom's 56 Belvedere locking up the doors whenever a bumper jack was used to change a tire. Both doors would not open on this thing once one corner was up in the air.....it was a two door hard top.

 

[oldbee]

Go for it they definitely help stiffen everything up.

 

[1969 beep beep]

Thank you! You all have made some very good points.

Us Car tool recommends hanging the doors with the car placed on jack stands with all the door gaps correct. They also said they have welded them in place with the car on a rotisserie.

I think I am going to take the car of the rotisserie, place the car on stands, hang the doors and weld away.

I am going to take Kern dog's advice "Build the car they way you want"

 

[Glenwood]

fun welding upside down, but I think it's worth stiffening up the body.

 

[Cranky]

Thank you! You all have made some very good points.

Us Car tool recommends hanging the doors with the car placed on jack stands with all the door gaps correct. They also said they have welded them in place with the car on a rotisserie.

I think I am going to take the car of the rotisserie, place the car on stands, hang the doors and weld away.

I am going to take Kern dog's advice "Build the car they way you want"

Even though the doors at not all that light, they do not weigh that much and I really doubt they will make much of a difference if any if you were to bolt them on with the car on the rotisserie if you are worried about fitment. Heck, stick them on then roll the car upside down and see if the gaps change. I bet they won't. Sounds like a lot of work to take the car off the rotisserie and put it on stands and bolt on the doors. The only cars I've ever seen move around were rusty ones......and body on frame cars.