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disc brake conversion

moparsquid

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
3:38 AM
Joined
Sep 9, 2010
Messages
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Location
spring valley ,ca.
hello need to know anyone who has done a conversion on the 62-65 what master they used and where they got the steel lines pics would be apreciated
 
There are many Disc brake conversion threads, Do a search in the search box.
I've done the Mopar Action disc brake swap. There are many different kits so one master maybe good on one swap and not the other. Power brakes or are you doing manual?
 
I used all Mopar parts. Spindles and caliper mounts from a 76 Dart. Master cylinder and calipers from a '75 Dart and rotors from a 77 Monaco. Everything just bolts together. Lines were from a '75 dart as well. Just needed a little adjusting to clear and work perfectly.

Calipers were moved to the rear of the spindle to clear the factory sway bar. Without a sway bar they are be mounted to the front which should make the lines just bolt right up.

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I'm pretty darn sure you'll need to make your own brake lines. Can't imagine any pre made thing will work. Get the double flaring tool, a tubing bender tool, make a couple of trial parts and then get results that you want. Just my opinion.
 
I got the spindles and caliper assemblies from a 75 Plymouth Valiant. I also got the Proportioning valve and lines from the master cylinder. I used the brake hoses from the same Valiant (but new). The hard lines are the easiest thing to bend up. For a master cylinder, I like manual brakes, so I used a manual disk brake master cylinder for a 76 Volare. It is cast iron and looks right at home in the 65 engine compartment. You can also use the later (79?) master cylinder, but it is aluminum with a plastic reservoir. It doesn't look quite right in the 65 engine compartment. Basically, everything from the Valiant just bolts on. Simplest upgrade (on my 65 Belvedere) I have ever done.
-Matt
 
cordobas are also a direct fit
 
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You will need to make up the hard lines. There are a couple ways to go. You can source a stock style proportioning valve, or you can purchase an aftermarket adjustable unit. I used a Summit adjustable unit and mounted it beside the master cylinder just to make it easy to reach. Cost is under $50. The stock style will cost more. Your choice. Its been my experience that they both work pretty well. The adjustable unit goes in the rear brake line BTW.

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You may want to contact Dr Diff. His advice and products are great.
 
SSBC kit was complete with everything right down to the cotter pins.4 piston calipers stops my heap from 145 MPH.

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I used Baer rotors and calipers from a Porsche twin turbo. I used to have Viper brakes on my '65 but decided to upgrade to the Porsche stuff. You can make most anything fit on these cars.
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Here is a Viper caliper with a Mercedes Benz rotor on my '65. The MB rotor is 13 x 1.250 and fairly inexpensive from the dealer. I used this setup for a while and it worked great but was a little heavy. Felt good at 120+ mph though. Slowed the car down like it was stuck in mud.
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got 2 leeds a guy wants 200.00 for a set from a 66 charger ,isnt them a 4 piston type ? and a place that will do it all for 1300.00 $ too high or good deal any thoughts
 
I was quoted $1300, too. Disclaimer was if everything was "plug and play". I tackled the conversion myself with a Dr Diff kit, and it wasn't totally plug and play.

One FBBO member here paid $3300 for a conversion including parts and labor.
 
I was quoted $1300, too. Disclaimer was if everything was "plug and play". I tackled the conversion myself with a Dr Diff kit, and it wasn't totally plug and play.

One FBBO member here paid $3300 for a conversion including parts and labor.

WOW!

Nothing against someone who doesn't want to mess with hunting parts or some minor fabrication, but I'm cheap... If I can build it instead of writing a check, that's what I'll do. Hell, I could rebuild a small block chebby for that kind of cash.

My front disks are made up of all mid 70s stock "A" body parts with the exception of the 77 Dodge Monaco 11.75" rotors. With some judicious shopping in E-bay and the help of RockAuto.com, I think I have all of $300 in them... including the master cylinder and proportioning valve. Will they stop as well as a 4 piston big inch $3K setup? Probably not, but they will stop a hell of a lot better than the stock drums..... and THAT is the main reason for doing the swap in the first place.
 
20 years ago I used to do the cheap brake swaps by finding FMJ knuckles and R body rotors and caliper adapters in the local wrecking yards. These days those cars have all been crushed so it isn't that easy anymore. Doctor Diff has reproduced the caliper adapters but nobody makes a FMJ knuckle replacement. You can get a reproduction A body knuckle from Doctor Diff if you can't find used FMJ knuckles. Rotors, calipers, pads and hoses should all be easy to find at local parts store.
 
got 2 leeds a guy wants 200.00 for a set from a 66 charger ,isnt them a 4 piston type ? and a place that will do it all for 1300.00 $ too high or good deal any thoughts
$1300 is probably a fair price in CA to have someone install a disc brake conversion. The big question is if they are going to do a good job for you or not. For $1300 I'd want all new parts including the master cylinder and everything should be leak free and properly bleed. There is a fair amount of labor involved in pulling the old knuckles off and changing all the parts. If a shop is doing that for you they might want to change ball joints at the same time since it is all apart and then align the front suspension when they get it all back together. Good luck, I wouldn't trust any shops around here to do work like that.
 
I was quoted $1300, too. Disclaimer was if everything was "plug and play". I tackled the conversion myself with a Dr Diff kit, and it wasn't totally plug and play.

One FBBO member here paid $3300 for a conversion including parts and labor.

The brake swaps are "plug and play" if you know what you are doing. For the average shop or first timer they will not be plug and play. Just look at all the questions about brake conversions on this board. Lots of people don't even know which side to install the knuckles on or why you would want to put the calipers to the rear or to the front on different cars. Which way the knuckles go depends on what type of anti-sway bar is used and which calipers are being used.
 
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