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I just converted my 64 Polara to discs and all went according to plan.
Fine looking installation! That setup will work fine for a stock or slightly hotter than stock.My guess is your brakes would work well.
If you haven't already, make sure you have the tie rods and everything hooked up to check for clearance from lock to lock. I had to swap the spindles around which put the caliper towards the front on my 64 belvedere. (Was MBM kit with new alum. MC and adapter from Dr. Diff and manual prop. valve for rear brakes.)
Simple question, when using the A body stuff, can you use the gem 62 and newer B body upper control arm or do you need to get the 73-76 A body version?
B body arm, they aren't interchangeable. If you want better geometry, upgrade to tubular upper arms.
Ok. So that helps. It is different than A bodies. So you basically just take the complete spindle and swap it on then, that is easily doable. Tie rod tapers are the same?
That's part of the lower ball joint/steering arm assembly which bolts to the spindle. More info on spindles here https://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/spindles.shtml
Ok thank you. I will do some looking into this.
The mid 70's A body disks swap over without any mods. Other than a new master cylinder and proportioning valve, the only parts needed are the A body steering knuckles and caliper brackets. Stock B body control arms work perfectly without modification. Be advised however, stock A body calipers mount on the front side of the knuckle. If you have one of the early front sway bars you'll need to swap the knuckles side to side so the calipers mount to the rear for them to clear. No big deal and they still work perfectly. Here's a pic of the A body knuckle mounted on my '64 Polara with the early sway bar. Note the caliper mounting holes are on the rear side so the calipers will clear the sway bar. The whole thing is pretty much a bolt on procedure.
Ok now I have it. I have a couple of A body swaps that I could employ. Was not sure if there were UCA issues such as with A bodies. That looks easy enough. BTW-does this advice generally cover all B bodies through about 1970?
Thru '72. Same front sway bar as E body starting in '70. Need LCA's with the right mounting tab.
I used new spindles from Classic Industries and a Wilwood kit used to replace the stock disc brakes from a ‘73 Coronet (larger inner wheel bearings than the earlier models). Since it already had been converted to discs, I kept the same master cylinder that was on it. I switched the spindles out because we couldn’t ascertain what parts were on the car. The spindles from Classic are supposed to be stock height, but they lowered the front end of the car about 2” and come set up for the ‘73 and later Coronet brakes. I know the spindles that were on the car were not the stock ones.
I purchased a SSBC kit like Al. Worked great, but did not clear my 4" wide Cragars, nor the ET Wheels I planned to run. The caliper rubbed the inner rim. I put a set of "Pirate Jack" brakes on FRUSTRATION. They fit great and cost around $500 without the master cylinder. They did clear the narrow wheels. Decided to purchase a second kit from Pirate Jack (ebay has them). They work great. If anyone is interested, I'll sell my SSBC kit for $250. I'm in PA. Send a PM.
$250 is a great deal for an SSBC kit. What model is it? How many miles on them?
Not sure how many miles. I put about ten miles on them, then switched to the Pirate Jack set up. When I bought the SSBC's, they were lightly used. I'll snap some photos later today of what I have and what the pads look like. They worked perfectly. Great deal, cause I know I'll never use them. Hope someone else can.
If they will fit a 66 Plymouth Belvedere I would be real interested. I’ll message you.
do you have a pic of the master
The only reason I used non mopar I because it was power brake car I switch it to manual and lost the original brackets so it was easier to go with the corvette style