Clock fix

[Tori]

Is there a common failure to some of the clocks used in our cars ? ('71 Satellite)

I pulled my cluster out today for some overall TLC and while it's out would like to get my clock fixed. I fixed the clock in my 911 via a forum post and was hoping to do the same with this clock

If not, i'll see if North Hollywood Speedometer can fix it (unless there is another recommendation)

 

[J. Cower]

Same question for me please

 

[Tori]

J., How'd you like getting that cluster out. What a cluster F aye

 

[Photon440]

Two most common problems are burnt contact points, and dirt.
http://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restor...tting_the_ticktock_back_in_your_old_car_clock

 

[Tori]

Thanks Photon, have you any experience fixing one like this ? I'll take mine apart and see what i see.

 

[Beekeeper]

The death of most of the clocks on these cars are burnt contacts and burnt coils. When these cars were left setting and the battery gets so low there's not enough voltage to wind the mechanisms the contacts stay closed. the low voltage either or both welds the contacts and burns up the winding coil. So the options are to dress the contacts if they are not burnt beyond
repair and or disassemble and rewind the coil.

 

[kiwigtx]

My 70 had a dead clock when I bought it...so during the rebuild I converted to a quartz movement. No issues any more, and it keeps time perfectly.

Most clockwork-electric clocks failed shortly after leaving the dealer lot when new.

 

[Tori]

... I converted to a quartz movement.

I like the sounds of that. Got any details on what you used for the conversion ?

 

[kiwigtx]

I like the sounds of that. Got any details on what you used for the conversion ?

Sorry...I sent it to my local Instrument Technician, as they do speedometers, tachometers and all sorts of gauges. Just a regular quartz movement the correct size - using the original hands and face etc. Cost me about $300 back in 2000.

 

[Photon440]

Thanks Photon, have you any experience fixing one like this ? I'll take mine apart and see what i see.

Hi Tori. Yes, I cleaned mine, using a soft brush and electrical contact cleaner/lubrication in a spray can. You can test it with a simple 9volt battery, no need to hook it up to the car.

As others mentioned, if it is unfixable you can get a quartz clock conversion. I actually purchased one of these but after my original started working properly I didn't use it.

Here's a link for a conversion kit: https://www.clocksandgauges.com/quartz-conversion-kit.html
And an article by Richard Ehrenberg on how to install the kit. He mentions RTE but they don't have kits on their website any longer.
http://rt-eng.com/rte/images/8/8e/RealTimeEngTach_MoparActionApril20005.pdf

 

[kiwigtx]

Hi Tori. Yes, I cleaned mine, using a soft brush and electrical contact cleaner/lubrication in a spray can. You can test it with a simple 9volt battery, no need to hook it up to the car.

I tried this initially, but the coil on mine was well burnt...so no amount of effort by my motor-rewinder friend could resurrect it.

 

[Tori]

Stand by.... i'm going in..... ;)

 

[Tori]

Does the clock run off straight 12v ? Now i can't find the wire i took off it :rollseyes: to verify what i had going to it.... gah !

 

[Tori]

Clock is apart- coil is cooked.

 

[Tori]

For anyone else coming to do this job, here's what you'll see once the back over is removed. To get the cover off, there is one tab to bend, then look for for a couple other places on the back cover that are crimped over - this will need prying outward, then the cover will slide right off.

 

[Tori]

Feeling like i couldn't break it more than it already is, I decided to investigate the clock workings further and learn a little bit. I discovered that I could drive the points away from each other with a small screwdriver and that wouldn't affect wind the mechanism and then I could watch the workings of the clock operate for about 10 to 12 seconds until they came back in contact with each other and then it would stop. At that point I twisted the broken wires of the coil back together put 12 V to it to see if it would work. I had to drive the points apart to get it started and then as soon as they took it down and came in contact with each other there were some tiny sparks as it tried to re-energize itself, then it blew the three amp circuit breaker on my 12 V power supply. As you can see, the points are totally cooked. Way beyond filing. There is hardly anything left of them.



To be continued later this week when i convert to Quartz.....

 

[kiwigtx]

For anyone else coming to do this job, here's what you'll see once the back over is removed. To get the cover off, there is one tab to bend, then look for for a couple other places on the back cover that are crimped over - this will need prying outward, then the cover will slide right off.

View attachment 447976

Yep, that's cooked.

 

[Tori]

I know, i was bummed too. I really wanted the mechanical movement of the second hand.
You know, like a fake Rolex

 

[Cranky]

On my first car...a 66 Belvedere that I had in 69, I spent a good amount of time sitting in it at night and just relaxing out in front of the house when I came home from a date or somewhere. It was better than going into the house and listening to my control freak sister bitching about stuff. Anyways, I'd always hear something that popped in my dash over towards the right and never knew what it was. About 15 years later I found out what the pop was! Anyways, usually the contacts would get a build up that was similar to slight burning that a point type ignition system got and quit working and most times, cleaning/filing them would do the trick. Looks like yours took things a lot further.....

 

[moose1]

Had the same problem with my '66 'Net. Watchmaker got the original running but it gained 20 min./day before quitting again. Found this quartz replacement kit on line. Comes with a DVD & takes about an hour to do - once the clock is on the bench. Uses stock case, face & needles & hasn't skipped a beat in almost 3 years.