440 engine running issues - Sputter at high RPM

[oldbee]

You should have a 3/8" fitting combat out the carb,probably coming out of the rear. It pulls vacuum from both sides of carb & is the best place. Leave that 3/16-1/4" fitting alone for the vac. advance.

 

[stappy]

coloradodave - My son did some research last night and found out the carb we were trying to use is off a 1966-68 Corvette L88.

 

[stappy]

You should have a 3/8" fitting combat out the carb,probably coming out of the rear. It pulls vacuum from both sides of carb & is the best place. Leave that 3/16-1/4" fitting alone for the vac. advance.

Nope. Only vacuum on the carb is the little one.

 

[coloradodave]

coloradodave - My son did some research last night and found out the carb we were trying to use is off a 1966-68 Corvette L88.

I figured. Bet you can get some hellacious money for that on one of the Corvette forums. They've got to be as rare as hen's teeth...

 

[stappy]

Well, we are definitely cleaning the carb out and making it usable. I guess we could stick it back to stock configuration to sell if we need to BUT.... Rejetted it again, put in accelerator pump diaphragm, and reset the timing (again) and it is running much better. Still have the sputter though.

Air Fuel is now pretty much at 11:1 to 10:1 and seems to be pretty happy. A friend asked if it could be ignition. So here is the run down.

Car was points but engine is from 1977 and had OEM electronic ignition
Swapped out the distributor for a replacement new distributor which is standard hall effect vacuum advance style. New rotor, cap, and distributor
New accel 8140 coil after original coil and coil off another engine and a new oem style coil failed to cure sputter
new ignition control module was purchased and engine failed to start. Replaced with control module out of a 72 Charger and runs now
New 8mm plug wires
New spark plugs gapped .35

 

[stappy]

I found this in a manual online:
"For optimum performance in systems without an ACCEL 257+/300+ or similar ignition control, use one of ACCEL 4 specially matched coils which eliminates the need for a ballast resistor or a resistance wire. These coils are: 140305, 8140 or 8140C SuperStock Canister Coil, 140009 HD E-core SuperCoil."

Does this mean I should be seeing 12v at the coil instead of going through the factory resistor?

 

[69a100]

Car was points but engine is from 1977 and had OEM electronic ignition
Swapped out the distributor for a replacement new distributor which is standard hall effect vacuum advance style. New rotor, cap, and distributor
New accel 8140 coil after original coil and coil off another engine and a new oem style coil failed to cure sputter
new ignition control module was purchased and engine failed to start. Replaced with control module out of a 72 Charger and runs now
New 8mm plug wires
New spark plugs gapped .35

And you still haven't answered anything as to what I wrote in post #19, I still bet that's still your problem! But that's your problem, not mine!

 

[stappy]

You don't say a thing about what year your car is,
Very first post - "I have a 1977 440 Motorhome engine in a 1969 Charger"

which Regulator you used
Cheap O'Reilly transistor regulator (twice, one was bad), used regulator off a 1972 Charger, and the original regulator out of the 77 motorhome. Sorry, do not have the part numbers. Tell me which one I should be using and I will go buy that. This morning the voltmeter I added over the weekend said 14.4 volts at 1500 rpm. Also kept the motorhome two wire alternator.

and a few others.
Sorry, not sure what this refers to

Read this then tell us what's wrong!
No clue

Early Charging System modified for use with a 70 style VR

There are a number of reasons one might want to upgrade a pre-1970 system to a transistorized voltage regulator. The list of reason include

• Chrysler recommends you switch to a transistorized VR if you upgrade to an electronic ignition from a points style ignition.
  DONE
  
  
• If you have to buy a new voltage regulator, the difference in cost is only about $5-10 more for the transistorized unit. Not to mention, the quality of replacement early style VR's is spotty.
  DONE

• The transistorized VR will have a longer life.
  OK, sold me 2 months ago

Below is a diagram describing how to install a 70 and later Voltage Regulator on a sixties mopar.

http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Electrical/charging.htm
DONE

I am sorry I did not see your earlier post until right now. Was not intentional.