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New mechanical fuel pump not working

Today i will give it another attempt.
I know which Ridgid pipe wrench you are on about and i wish i had one. (at work is also my best friend as Chief Mechanic offshore)
I'll get some other supply's from the hardware store today anyway and will check if i can find one.
Try and see if i can get a Torx socket in there that sits a bit stiff, and with a pipe wrench on it as well and pull as f*ck.
I will lift the distributor as well to see what is the damage, hope the camshaft is ok.

Yesterday the Vice grips slipped over and could not get a new tight grip again due the lack of space.
I gave it some thought yesterday evening but converting to a electric pump is not as simple as i was expecting.
And to convert to that it should be a good job with proper installation and not a temporary setup.

All this started with doing a re-adjustment on my carb is it was running very rich at idle and didn't run as smooth as i wanted.
At higher rpm the engine goes nose done and dies at me, after a little light throttling it picks up again.
In my other thread regarding this issue we came to the conclusion of fuel starvation, found a blocked filter but still happened so suspected the fuel pump.
Now it looks like the fuel pump was ok, just not being operated properly anymore causing a lack of fuel.
The old pump is a Carter M6903 and i bought the exact same one again.
 
Ok here goes....guess i needed the kick in the butt from you guys!

Got the plug out, bought a can of freezer which brings down the component to -50 Deg and hammered in a 12 point spline socket and it snapped loose.
Removed distributor and had a look at the cam lobe for the pump, so far i cannot see severe damage, think the actual lobe is on the other side so after reinstalling the distributor i will crank the engine a full turn to have a look at the opposite side of the camshaft.
The pin is damaged and measures 2.966" so that is F-ed.
I will order a new one from Summit i think as these parts are hard to find here.

Which one would be best to pick?
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hrs-92152/overview/make/dodge
Maybe this one will do? It is for a cast camshaft, which mine is.

If there is another option/site where to get a better one please advice me, you guys know more then me.
As long as they do international shipping i will be good!

IMG_8126.jpg IMG_8128.jpg IMG_8129.jpg IMG_8130.jpg IMG_8131.jpg IMG_8132.jpg
 
This is the other side of the lobe.
When taking the pictures only noticed the section for the fuel pump is eccentric and the actual lobe itself is round and not like a valve lobe.

IMG_8134.jpg IMG_8135.jpg

Doesn't look really good imo.
 
Wietse said:
If there is another option/site where to get a better one please advice me, you guys know more then me.
Click to expand...
Just my lousy thinking, okay. Understand your situation, where your at. Your best bet, would be to find a good used original rod. Even out of a junk yard!
My rod only had bare signs of normal wear, on both ends...had it 'kissed' on a valve tip grinder, losing a grand total of .003". Main thing, is how it's made, with the right hardness, that keeps the rod from wearing down.
For whatever reason, the after-market parts, are not hardened right. All their after is the damn money.

But, your choice, and risk, for getting the rod, even worth looking at. The two hardened ends on those rods should be around the same length. Easy to see how much that butterball wore down!
 
Just a thought, but maybe call a cam manufacturer, or maybe someone on here can tell you what the lobe lift should be. Then you can insert the new rod, and measure the rod travel by using a small ruler pushing the new pump rod up against the cam, while a helper rotates the engine by hand.
 
Need to get a new rod first, which will take a week to receive.
Lobe surface appears damaged but did not see any severe damage where the diameter of it has been severly reduced.
Just damaged surface, i am not sure how long a new push rod would last on this.
For me to find an original one would be even harder.
Just need a good advice on a replacement.
 
Make sure you get a name brand part. I think someone mentioned Mancini. Summit house brand products are china junk.
 
I went through this same problem with the 440 in my car. I had put a Carter HP fuel pump on and nothing was pumping. I took that pump off three or four times, checked the rod and pump again and again, and nothing, so I assumed a bad pump. I bought a brand new standard pump from O'Reillys and same deal. The rod was fine, the install was good, but no gas was pumping out.

I had an issue with the pump for our swimming pool losing it's prime due to an air leak, and when it did I would have to open it up and fill the pump with water before it would start pumping. I had just primed the pool pump when I thought maybe I should try doing this with the car. I poured some gas into a soda bottle, took the fuel line off the filter, and poured the gas into the fuel line until it was completely filled. I reconnected the line to the filter, hit the starter, and vroom... the engine started right up and no more fuel issues.
 
Your Summit link won't work. I bought this one for my 440. Useing the same Carter pump as you.
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-92152

20160601_101806.jpg


Two reviews stated it was too tight. I had no problems. Maybe measure the diameter on your old one before ordering. 0.432 is the dia.

Edit: now the link works. Same one I bought.
 
Last edited:
I've measured 0.432" to 0.434" so should fit.
If it's tight can always clean off a bit with very fine emery cloth or so.
I will order 2 of them to have one spare, if this winter it turns out the camshaft is too much damaged i will have to buy a new one i guess.
Or again, go electric but that includes quite some more stuff then i expected.
 
The way I read post #43 your eccentric is worn. If worn round electric pump or a new cam and lifters be in order. Judging how worn the fuel pump rod is the cam eccentric I'd be worried about.
 
Seeing that rod has me wondering about your motor oil? Are you aware that you need either a special oil (with zinc) or additive in any flat tappet engine? All new cars went to roller cams so the new oils don't have the proper additives to protect our cams and lifters. Just thinking?
 
I just bought that NOS push rod of Ebay, guess it was the last one.
I will also order 2 from Summit as mentioned above. (i like spares)

The oil i am using is as per the mechanic from the shop i bought the car as according him this is the right oil for high performance engines, specially with flat tapped followers.
Kendal GT1 Racing Green oil, believe 20W50. (need to check)

My guess is that this push rod has been wearing already for a long time, i replaced the oil recently and have driven only a few miles on it so far.
I always check the drained oil for any metal and contamination and found clean oil without metal filings etc.
 
The way I read post #43 your eccentric is worn. If worn round electric pump or a new cam and lifters be in order. Judging how worn the fuel pump rod is the cam eccentric I'd be worried about.

The surface where the pin runs on is round, but that section of shaft is placed eccentric.
You can see this on the pictures, on the first pictures the lobe is away from the oil pump gear and in the lower reply it is near the gear.
The lobes for the valves are egg shaped, but this is round.
 
I have ordered 2 Howards rods from Summit and also got 1 NOS from Ebay, hope it will work out.
 
OK, I am confused. I just replaced my cam last year and my fuel pump has a lever, not a push rod. Is the 440 different than the 383? I thought they where just about the same except for the bore. What am I missing here?
 
afuel.PNG
You must of had your fuel pump off the engine when you changed the cam? I don't think cam would come out if pump was on the engine. The rod drives the lever from the cam.
 
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