Best Coolant To Use Now Days?

[soundhd]

Need to replace my exhaust manifold gaskets on my 70 Roadrunner (383 auto, stock radiator) and have bolts now so going to install a stud kit first so need to drain the cooling system. I have owned the 70 Roadrunner for 3 years now and it was "sort" of restored 10 years before that so best I think to use new coolant since it has been at least 13 years.. What's the best coolant to use now days? Been a long time since I have bought "regular" coolant for an older "classic". My other "older" classic has a Be-Cool aluminum radiator so been using Be-Cool's coolant in that.

Thanks

 

[moparedtn]

I'll be watching the knowledgeable answers to this one, since I have to put antifreeze in the GTX right about now (replacing the distilled water/BeKool mix).
Good topic.

 

[91r/t]

I always use Prestone. Name brand, seems to keep its color better over many miles, and I have seen some tests showing it breaks down less/slower than some other cheaper brands. With our cars not being daily drivers, I am sure that isn't a huge issue but hey I use it in everything. Also I use distilled water over tap water. Less contaminants in it vs tap water to keep the corrosion down. The biggest thing I think is actually changing it. It is only really good for 4-5 years at the most and some of my buddies argue and say its good forever. Changing it somewhat often seems to be more important than the brand itself. I have always wanted to try that waterless stuff too but haven't really had the opportunity to yet.

 

[moes]

I"ve used this for three years now in my cars. Evans High Performance Waterless coolant. It's expensive, but I feel it is worth every penny spent, but you only have install it once. You have to remove all the old coolant using there Prep Fluid to purge the system first, unless you have a new motor and rad.

Evans High Performance coolant is ready to use—no water required. It contains no silicates or phosphates and requires no Supplemental Coolant Additive (SCA).

• Boiling Point: Above 375°
• Antifreeze Properties: Protects below -40°F
• Benefits: Eliminates corrosion and pump cavitation, reduces system pressure, prevents overheating, maximizes BHP
• Life Span: Protects for life of the engine

 

[Dennis H]

Green conventional.

 

[747mopar]

There's been a few good threads on this already so you might do a search and check it out. As for me I've never seen the need for anything other than the simple green antifreeze. If it doesn't keep your engine cool than you've got bigger problems than coolant.

 

[moparedtn]

This is a good thread for information on this:
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/factory-antifreeze-in-the-late-60s.137399/
There is a lot of evidence to support using green "conventional" antifreeze in our cars, but NOT Prestone. Check the thread for why.

 

[themechanic]

As soon as you fill the cooling system it starts a slow chemical reaction in the radiator, hoses, engine and everywhere that coolant touches.

Just buy the cheapest ethylene glycol based (green) concentrate and mix 50/50 with distilled water (not mineral water, tap water, or anything else) and change it every year whether you drive it or not. At least buy a coolant checker tool and check the specific gravity of the coolant and change it no less than every 3 years.

 

[aeon280]

If you still have the original copper and steel radiator and iron heads than your good with Green. I think most manufacturers switched to the newer Orange because some of the chemicals in the old school Green coolant didn't play nice with modern plastic and aluminum radiators and heads. Overall they all do the same thing. I have been running orange 50/50 in my Nissan truck for the last 30k miles. One of my heater hoses blew all of the sudden driving down the highway and purged the system. When I fixed it I refused to pay 20 dollars a litter for Pentosin. Ive had no problems since and truck seems to cool just as good as with over priced Pentosin.

 

[themechanic]

Coolant breaks down. He says it at the 3 minute mark and gets into it there.

 

[moes]

the reason I starterd using Evans (beside what it does) is that you only have to do it ONCE and you are done, it's good for a life time. When I used regular anti freeze I changes it every three years because it starts to degrade and most classic cars sit during the winter months.

 

[themechanic]

I think Evans would be fine but for the cost and if you sprang a leak forty miles from home.

 

[moes]

I think Evans would be fine but for the cost and if you sprang a leak forty miles from home.

I spent good money to get my engine rebuilt, new rad, new heater core and I replaced all the hoses. For me it's money well spent using Evans, everbody has to make choices when it comes to their cars. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[Ranger16]

I don't think there is a "best" coolant. Much like oils, everyone has his preferred coolant. Personally, I use conventional green, but whatever you choose, change it every other year and you'll be just fine. If you have gone 13 years without a coolant change, that's neglect and asking for problems.

 

[PaveFE]

I use Zerex original green (found it on Amazon), also added RP Purple Ice. Be sure to flush the system well first. I've had my coolant in for 2 years / 1200 miles with no problems.

 

[Yatzee]

Need to replace my exhaust manifold gaskets on my 70 Roadrunner (383 auto, stock radiator) and have bolts now so going to install a stud kit first so need to drain the cooling system. I have owned the 70 Roadrunner for 3 years now and it was "sort" of restored 10 years before that so best I think to use new coolant since it has been at least 13 years.. What's the best coolant to use now days? Been a long time since I have bought "regular" coolant for an older "classic". My other "older" classic has a Be-Cool aluminum radiator so been using Be-Cool's coolant in that.

Thanks

If you have aluminum parts on your engine the best coolant is Ford's newer version of anti-freeze under the Motocraft name. You could also use Chrysler's offering. These coolants are far superior to the brand names because, "guess who's holding the warranty on these vehicles".It is not uncommon for newer vehicles to run at 225+ degrees all day so the coolant has to have a high heat absorbion, no air entranement and additives to protect aluminum parts from efflorescence. Also the total expansion factor under heat is far less.

 

[khryslerkid]

Post #25 by Purplebeeper is the best explanation I've ever heard anywhere.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/coolant-recommendations.92712/page-2

 

[rrTor-Red]

Green conventional.

That's exactly what Bob from Glen-Ray told me to run in the radiator he did for me. Bob runs a 500 ci(?) big block and it cools it just fine he said.

 

[ckessel]

For me, its oe coolants. OE coolants contain an additional additive called Bitrex which makes it taste nasty. Helps prevent 2 legged and 4 legged offspring from consuming the fluid and croaking. Aftermarket coolants do not contain this.

 

[PeteBell68]

I always use Prestone. Name brand, seems to keep its color better over many miles, and I have seen some tests showing it breaks down less/slower than some other cheaper brands. With our cars not being daily drivers, I am sure that isn't a huge issue but hey I use it in everything. Also I use distilled water over tap water. Less contaminants in it vs tap water to keep the corrosion down. The biggest thing I think is actually changing it. It is only really good for 4-5 years at the most and some of my buddies argue and say its good forever. Changing it somewhat often seems to be more important than the brand itself. I have always wanted to try that waterless stuff too but haven't really had the opportunity to yet.

I've always used the Prestone 50/50 mix distilled water and never an issue ..