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Another Running HOT Thread

Stumper

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My 62’ Fury, pretty stock 361/4bbl, original style fan and a non original (but correct) 22” 3 core radiator with a 13psi cap. Last year i installed a new high flow water pump and a 160-5 t stat. The T stat is a fail open type.
Most of my local cruising around I’ve been trouble free. On warmer days the temp will occasionally climb to the upper quarter of the gage and then the t stat opens and it comes back down to about half gage. The other day I went to a cruise in an adjacent town. It was in the upper 80s and I drove faster than usual over there - 65-70 mph. When I got into the town I noticed my gage was all the way to the hot side and after I parked it puked a qt or better of coolant out of the overflow. Driving home later I stayed 55-60 mph and the temp stayed normal. I have noticed this before that the temp climbs high when I drive faster. Obviously the engine works harder at higher speeds but the air flow is also higher? Radiator was flushed last year when the pump was installed.
My first thought was a stuck T stat, but it is almost new. Any thoughts?
 
Something seems wrong.
Going 10 mph faster shouldn't make it overheat.
 
Agreed. Grill is in great shape and the radiator has minimal bug damage so I think it’s getting the proper airflow. No radiator shroud but they weren’t on many cars in 62.. lower hose has a spring in it.
 
You said you added a high flow water pump. There is such a thing as pumping the coolant so fast that it does not remain in the radiator long enough to loose as much heat as it needs too.
 
You said you added a high flow water pump. There is such a thing as pumping the coolant so fast that it does not remain in the radiator long enough to loose as much heat as it needs too.
ABSOLUTELY INCORRECT.........VELOCITY OF THE COOLANT (either thru the block & heads AND thru the radiator) is the secret to beat heat transfer. According to the fundamentals of Thermodynamics (Q (heat) = M (mass flow, in terms of Btu/Hr) x Cp (specif heat characteristics of the coolant) x delta T (temperature differences of both air flow and coolant) and ambient temperature. It's obvious you do not believe in this aspect but continue to believe in old wives tale #3, that the coolant must move slow thru the radiator. I can explain the fundamentals of Thermodynamics and heat transfer.......if you're interested......
BOB RENTON
 
ABSOLUTELY INCORRECT.........VELOCITY OF THE COOLANT (either thru the block & heads AND thru the radiator) is the secret to beat heat transfer. According to the fundamentals of Thermodynamics (Q (heat) = M (mass flow, in terms of Btu/Hr) x Cp (specif heat characteristics of the coolant) x delta T (temperature differences of both air flow and coolant) and ambient temperature. It's obvious you do not believe in this aspect but continue to believe in old wives tale #3, that the coolant must move slow thru the radiator. I can explain the fundamentals of Thermodynamics and heat transfer.......if you're interested......
BOB RENTON
Over my head, Bob. I'm just a dumb old geezer that's been wrenching cars for 60 years. No university degrees here; I am a D.O.P.E. (Doctor of Personal Experience). LOL.
 
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F Dave, fast flow, friction, the heat it adds while dissipating nothing... wtf do we know. Ever put too small size of lines on a backhoe hydraulic system and stuck you hand on a metal section. :p Laminar, turbulent flow, wft do I know !
 
A quarter past half way on the guage before thermostat opens under low load in town cruising. Is that normal for that engine/year/rad etc.
 
Radiator was flushed last year. One other thing I forgot to mention is that my heater lines are plugged off at the firewall (heater valve was leaking).
 
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