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My 440 Build Thead (clueless builder)

wsutard

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I figured I would make this thread to document my misadventures in building an engine for the first time. If I even get that far.

After doing some block research I went ahead a dropped some cash on a ‘76 440 long block off CL. Supposedly this thing had 50k on it when pulled and had never need touched. Just like every engine on CL! Before I purchased I confirmed it had a virgin bore and the cylinder walls looked great. Only “downside” is that it has a cast crank. Well...

Turns out this guy was also selling a ‘69 440 short block that was very dirty but also a virgin bore and a forged crank. Only downside is it’s a Maltese cross + block, which I found out means the crank was .010 under from the factory.

I think I want a forged crank in my build so I made a deal for both including a bunch of extra parts that came off both engines.

Was going to do $400 for just the 77 but made a deal for both at $600. I figured I could take the forged crank out of the 69 and sell the block for at least $200.

So now I’m sitting here thinking “what did I just do?”

I have dreams of building a pump gas 500 hp at the wheels street car. My 69 Coronet has a 340 in it now and it just doesn’t do it for me anymore.

I saw a guy on CL selling a brand new 4.15” crank. The bought of a 500 stroker is cool but he sold it before I could grab it.

So, I’m not sure what I’m going to do with these. I need to balance my want for HP with the want to not spend money.

Opinions are welcome.

Here are some picks.

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You need to figure out your budget,

That forged crank is fine just get the right bearings for it

Trick flow 240 heads
Comp xr286 or 292 cam

New rods and pistons and that thing should make good power
 
Build it for torque and hp will follow.
 
You need to figure out your budget,

That forged crank is fine just get the right bearings for it

Trick flow 240 heads
Comp xr286 or 292 cam

New rods and pistons and that thing should make good power
I was originally thinking the 440 Source Stealth heads, just due to cost. However I have read that they cost as much as the Trick Flow once you are done with everything you need to do to them to make them flow good.

I figured 10-11 compression would be my target. Keep me on pump gas but pull as much power as I can. I would probably shoot for 10 rather than 11.
 
Ohh. I also plan to sell my 340 once I’m done with the 440. It’s from a 69 Dart GTS so it’s a little more valuable to the right buyer. Figure I can get $3000ish for it but it will take me a while to find the right buyer.
 
FYI. I have a 4 speed in the car right now backed up by a rebuilt 8 3/4.
 
I was originally thinking the 440 Source Stealth heads, just due to cost. However I have read that they cost as much as the Trick Flow once you are done with everything you need to do to them to make them flow good.

I figured 10-11 compression would be my target. Keep me on pump gas but pull as much power as I can. I would probably shoot for 10 rather than 11.
I would use the source heads out of the box vs re-doing/port the 906's..
 
I would use the source heads out of the box vs re-doing/port the 906's..
I have 452 heads. But I’m sure your statement stands.

There a guy on FB mopar forums that has a brand new set of RPM heads complete for $1100.
Might check these 2 articles out
/amp/www.hotrod.com/articles/535hp-440-engine/amp/
https://www.google.com/amp/www.hotrod.com/articles/mopar-440-update/amp/
I don’t do Facebook but I will have the wife look it up for me.

I will check out the articles.
 
Perfect world build.
Hughes 509 stroker kit
Trick Flow Heads
FiTech EFI
Intake
Aluminum water pump
TTI headers
 
Perfect world build.
Hughes 509 stroker kit
Trick Flow Heads
FiTech EFI
Intake
Aluminum water pump
TTI headers
Best guess would be 8ish grand Just on the motor, now you gotta plumb the car for efi, now you need to upgrade the trans and rearend unless you want to pick up the pieces off the street one day. It’s a domino effect my friend, tore my coronet down this winter to throw on some trickflpw heads and a cam, now I have a new strange s60,fuel injected 535” stroker, 4 link rear suspension, A&A super competition 727 trans, 4 wheel disc brakes,and all new front suspension.
 
You can confirm if the crank is undersized by looking on the outside face of counterweights. Think it's on 5/6 rod counterweight. I have a factory crank that's .001 on number 5 main and 5/6 and 7/8 rod journal. It's stamped M5 R5678. Don't know what would be on your crank, maybe M/R -.010 . You don't have to remove crank from block, you just spin the crank.
 
Best guess would be 8ish grand Just on the motor, now you gotta plumb the car for efi, now you need to upgrade the trans and rearend unless you want to pick up the pieces off the street one day. It’s a domino effect my friend, tore my coronet down this winter to throw on some trickflpw heads and a cam, now I have a new strange s60,fuel injected 535” stroker, 4 link rear suspension, A&A super competition 727 trans, 4 wheel disc brakes,and all new front suspension.
Upgrade the trans and rear end? Are the 4 speed and 8 3/4 not capable? Didn’t they come in 440s originally?
 
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