727 neutral safety switch help

[steve from staten island]

I believe i know what the problem is with the switch and its not the switch. Its the part that rides on the switch which moves as gears are changed. My first question is if the mechanism out side trans are removed can that part be removed and replaced without pulling trans. There is a plastic part that cover the arm and i think its partially broken exposing a sharp edge that gets hung on on ball in neutral safety switch making it impossible to go into drive. Now when the trans is in reverse-no crank, low 1&2 no crank but put it in drive and it cranks. The ball on the end of neutral safety switch is touching the arm and when i put a piece of paper in-between it would not crank. Pull the paper out it cranked. The plastic plunger on switch itself does not move from low, 2 and drive. So can anyone shed any light on this. If they plastic insulator part is sold i still need to remove the arm as its riveted into place. Any help is most apprenticed. Thanks

 

[oldbee]

I believe i know what the problem is with the switch and its not the switch. Its the part that rides on the switch which moves as gears are changed. My first question is if the mechanism out side trans are removed can that part be removed and replaced without pulling trans. There is a plastic part that cover the arm and i think its partially broken exposing a sharp edge that gets hung on on ball in neutral safety switch making it impossible to go into drive. Now when the trans is in reverse-no crank, low 1&2 no crank but put it in drive and it cranks. The ball on the end of neutral safety switch is touching the arm and when i put a piece of paper in-between it would not crank. Pull the paper out it cranked. The plastic plunger on switch itself does not move from low, 2 and drive. So can anyone shed any light on this. If they plastic insulator part is sold i still need to remove the arm as its riveted into place. Any help is most apprenticed. Thanks

Maybe Miller or dvw will have a better pic.This is out of 68FSM, I could swear a lot of manual levers have a plastic insert on them right on the “v” at left of photo; that may have broken off.

 

[steve from staten island]

Didn't see picture but its a insulator and a piece of it had to break off. were to get it is another story LOL

 

[Fran Blacker]

The rooster comb is on the valve body that can be removed without pulling trans. DVW or Miller at figuring out what's wrong.

 

[oldbee]

Forgot,sorry.

 

[EARLY B]

I believe i know what the problem is with the switch and its not the switch. Its the part that rides on the switch which moves as gears are changed. My first question is if the mechanism out side trans are removed can that part be removed and replaced without pulling trans. There is a plastic part that cover the arm and i think its partially broken exposing a sharp edge that gets hung on on ball in neutral safety switch making it impossible to go into drive. Now when the trans is in reverse-no crank, low 1&2 no crank but put it in drive and it cranks. The ball on the end of neutral safety switch is touching the arm and when i put a piece of paper in-between it would not crank. Pull the paper out it cranked. The plastic plunger on switch itself does not move from low, 2 and drive. So can anyone shed any light on this. If they plastic insulator part is sold i still need to remove the arm as its riveted into place. Any help is most apprenticed. Thanks

A&A transmission or Cope transmission should have the part you need.

 

[oldbee]

Can’t remember ur history, BUT IF someone tried to install valve body w/o backing off neutral switch, they could’ve broken either of the plastic things.

 

[steve from staten island]

Can’t remember ur history, BUT IF someone tried to install valve body w/o backing off neutral switch, they could’ve broken either of the plastic things.

I thought the same thing but the switch has a seal on the end and if its not tight the seal is useless. Plus the fact the switch would be hand tight

 

[1967coronet440]

Let’s see if @dvw or @miller can help you out with this Steve

 

[steve from staten island]

Forgot,sorry.

View attachment 565486

Old, that must be top view, i cant see it from bottom looking up. If i can remove it with out pulling trans then I'm good....

 

[steve from staten island]

A&A transmission or Cope transmission should have the part you need.

I think i found it at A&A.....Much thanks

 

[dvw]

Valve body has to come out to access. Remove the E clip then slide the throttle lever out. Watch the detent ball and spring. Depress the ball against the detent spring and slide the rooster comb up. Three hands is helpful here. Work in an area if you shoot the detent ball you will be able to find it. Don't ask me how I know. Any local trans supply house should have one laying around. I can probably dig one up. A guy at work runs a trans shop on the side. What year? Make sure that the switch body is not hitting the rooster comb. Some set to deep and may require a second sealing washer.
Doug

 

[steve from staten island]

Thanks, whats involved with taking valve body out? Do i need a new gasket? Its a 69 BTW

 

[oldbee]

Pop the pan, wait 2-3 days unless you want red fluid going to ur armpits!! Take off e-clip that hooks to parking rod, remove shift&throttle levers from outside of trans. Get an FSM or trans book. Not hard, just messy “in the car”.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Valve body has to come out to access. Remove the E clip then slide the throttle lever out. Watch the detent ball and spring. Depress the ball against the detent spring and slide the rooster comb up. Three hands is helpful here. Work in an area if you shoot the detent ball you will be able to find it. Don't ask me how I know. Any local trans supply house should have one laying around. I can probably dig one up. A guy at work runs a trans shop on the side. What year? Make sure that the switch body is not hitting the rooster comb. Some set to deep and may require a second sealing washer.
Doug

Put in a box when you pull the comb?

 

[oldbee]

Put in a box when pull the comb?

Wouldn’t hurt I guess, years ago I’d muscle that part and never think twice;now with my current luck, inside a box,lol.

 

[miller]

Pulling the shift body, a few things to know. No gasket, except pan gasket.
There's certain length bolts, at each bolt hole in the shift body. Wise to keep track of that, so re-installing them, they go at the right location.
If all stock, think there's one spring-loaded servo...so, be aware of that.