Roll Bar Install Progress

[LemonWedge]

The Satellite is in the process of having a roll-bar installed, and I thought I’d post some progress. This is the first real fabrication project I’ve taken on, so I’m learning as I go. YouTube is real helpful! I notched all the tubing by hand without a notcher. Bent the rear bars and door bar myself at a friend of mines shop that has a mandrel bender. The main hoop is part of Art Morrison’s kit.

It’s all cut, fitted and mocked up. Now I’m going to take it back out and paint the majority of it so I only have to hit the welded joints once it’s in. Not sure how others have addressed this install with a finished interior and headliner, but this is how I’m doing it. I cut holes in the floor that I can drop the main hoop down through to get to the weld points for the rear bars, as they’re right up against the headliner. The install plates cover it and I’ll replace the floor pieces, too. The bend in the door bar allows me to keep the stock door panels in tact. I know it may not be perfectly legal because it doesn’t pass me above my elbow, but I ain’t ripping the interior apart in this car and I’m wagering they’ll let me run at my local track.

I’ll continue to post progress.

View attachment 565872 View attachment 565874

 

[1967coronet440]

Nice work, going with a 5 or 6 point?

 

[LemonWedge]

Was pretty happy with my first shot at coping the mid-bar. Hand drill with a hole saw, a vice and a chop saw. I ended up square and tight.

 

[LemonWedge]

Nice work, going with a 5 or 6 point?

It will be a 5-pt. My wife rides in the car quite a bit and I didn’t want to have her deal with climbing over it. Saves me 10 lbs, too.

 

[mr. b]

nice work looking great

 

[1967coronet440]

What kind of time slips are you expecting?

 

[LemonWedge]

What kind of time slips are you expecting?

It went a best of 11.39 @116 last year; typically it’s in the 11.50’s. I just got my stealth heads back from Modern Cylinder Head where they got the full CNC porting and 5-angle backcut deal. Previous they were out of the box with only the valvesprings, locks & retainers swapped out. I’m hoping it’s in the bottom 11’s this year.... if I could somehow tease a 10-second timeslip out of it, Id be ecstatic. But that will likely have to wait until I somehow shave some weight off this sled. I’m sure it’s pushing 3900 lbs with me in it now.

 

[LemonWedge]

“Illegal Outlaw Door bar” pics......

 

[1967coronet440]

I’ve been debating if that’s how I’m going to do my door bars, I’d hate for it to fail tech somewhere because of it though. I know my track will allow it but I plan on doing some traveling with it this year

 

[LemonWedge]

That is exactly my dilemma as well. I’d hate to travel somewhere only to be turned away. I understand it’s a chance I’m taking.

 

[Mike67]

Looking God!
I cut my door bars out,mainly because they were a pain even as a swing out.... I'm going to go with a low door bar similar to yours . All of mine ties back in to the frame and I don't plan on needing a 8.9 rated cage if I do go to the track.

 

[cudatom]

It went a best of 11.39 @116 last year; typically it’s in the 11.50’s. I just got my stealth heads back from Modern Cylinder Head where they got the full CNC porting and 5-angle backcut deal. Previous they were out of the box with only the valvesprings, locks & retainers swapped out. I’m hoping it’s in the bottom 11’s this year.... if I could somehow tease a 10-second timeslip out of it, Id be ecstatic. But that will likely have to wait until I somehow shave some weight off this sled. I’m sure it’s pushing 3900 lbs with me in it now.

When I added the roll bar to my wagon it added 200lbs. Instantly lost 2/10's. Over the next 2 yrs I tuned, changed intakes and went to a dominator. Was back to 7.0's (1/8th) in the heat of summer last yr.
We went w/swing out door bars. My wife actually likes it.

 

[383man]

When I added my rollbar years ago I ended up removing the front door arm rests. I also was worried about it passing tech. But to be honest I see many with door bars about like yours that go through tech and are racing. So it may just depend on your track tech. I do remember how much work it was installing mine. With fish mouthing the bars to fit right and getting the angles right on some I remember spending all day (8hrs) in just fitting all the bars not including any welding. Its a lot of work getting it to fit right. Ron

 

[dvw]

“Illegal Outlaw Door bar” pics......

View attachment 565898 View attachment 565899 View attachment 565900

Looks good. That bar makes entrance easy. Put 'em in both sides.
Doug

 

[gtxracer]

That is exactly my dilemma as well. I’d hate to travel somewhere only to be turned away. I understand it’s a chance I’m taking.

Gary, I really doubt your door bar will pass, especially at tracks like Firebird in Boise or Mission across the border. Except for Pacific and Bremerton, I know of no other tracks close too us.
Bob

 

[gtxracer]

That is exactly my dilemma as well. I’d hate to travel somewhere only to be turned away. I understand it’s a chance I’m taking.

I forgot too add, your workmanship looks great...

 

[6PKRTSE]

I forgot too add, your workmanship looks great...

Looks awesome. Nice job. A lot easier than climbing in & out of mine also. LOL. Mine is all home built too along with help from some buddies.

 

[Tex013]

“Illegal Outlaw Door bar” pics......

View attachment 565898 View attachment 565899 View attachment 565900

Very similar to my intrusion bar . Mine is a bolt in bar , not supposed to have it in when street driving . I have a 5 point bar which is legal to 10.00 here in Australia . My rear bars come a little further and weld to the flat floor not the diff hump . I can still fit my 28"radial slicks in each side of the boot

Tex

 

[dvw]

I don't think anyone will say anything. That being said a straight bar is much stronger. Are you worried about safety or just being able to race? That's up to you. Mine has WAY more bars than are required. The only time in

5 years my car has even been checked for chassis cert or for a license is NMCA.

 

[Geri]

I don't think anyone will say anything. That being said a straight bar is much stronger. Are you worried about safety or just being able to race? That's up to you. Mine has WAY more bars than are required. The only time in View attachment 566761 5 years my car has even been checked for chassis cert or for a license is NMCA.

this is a very nice cage- a good point is that the dash was removed so the bars could be put where that are- the dash can be modified to fit over it. good job. I've seen many build a cage with the forward tubes and cross bar was on the driver side of the dash- now the dash can never be removed. yours is a clean effective cage.