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400 Stroker need Stud Girdle

m79ded

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Hi
I'm wondering at what power level will I need to install a girdle on my 400 stroker. I'm planning to upgrade my 451 to 511 and wanted to keep it safe and reliable. I do have main studs already on it.I got TFS240's with a 242-246 mechanical cam from Hughes with a Eddy RPM intake.
I'm sure with all the builds that our members have gone through, they will be able to shed some light on the subject.
 
It never hurts to have the stud girdle in place, but I have heard that 600-650 HP is the limit without having some means to stabilize the main caps.
 
I’ve used a few of them with stock caps on 400’s. Until I tear one down I probably won’t have an opinion on how well they work on the mopars. They certainly don’t hurt though.

This is my 511 in the roadrunner
05ECB636-10A1-4C48-A5FD-036B0695B689.jpeg
 
IMG_0902.JPG
Been running one on my low deck 500 for 4 years. Just for my peace of mind i guess. One tear down mains looked perfect.
 
I’m currently building a 470. My engine builder says aluminum mains and a girdle aren’t needed until 700-750hp so I’m listening to him. I’m expecting 600hp for mine and just used arp main studs and a fresh line hone. I’m also not bringing mine to the track either.
 
I’m currently building a 470. My engine builder says aluminum mains and a girdle aren’t needed until 700-750hp so I’m listening to him. I’m expecting 600hp for mine and just used arp main studs and a fresh line hone. I’m also not bringing mine to the track either.

He’s wrong, I’ve had cap walk on 500hp big blocks. And st the 750 range, I’d be looking for an aftermarket block for any kind of longevity
 
He’s wrong, I’ve had cap walk on 500hp big blocks.

Well I’m going to listen to him. He’s built tons and competed in major engine competitions so I’ll let you know in a few years who was right.
 
View attachment 571207 Been running one on my low deck 500 for 4 years. Just for my peace of mind i guess. One tear down mains looked perfect.
I see you and 68 Hemi GTS have them. Where should I look for one? Good price and product?
Thanks
 
Well I’m going to listen to him. He’s built tons and competed in major engine competitions so I’ll let you know in a few years who was right.

I didn’t say it’ll blow up, caps will walk though.
 
I see you and 68 Hemi GTS have them. Where should I look for one? Good price and product?
Thanks
Yup I went and looked and saw 440 Source has it for 349, Hughes has it for 449 both of these are without new caps. Any difference in the 2 other than price?
The Mancini setup includes caps, meaning that I would need to Line Bore the block.
 
I see you and 68 Hemi GTS have them. Where should I look for one? Good price and product?
Thanks

There all about the same. Source one is ok. If you wanna stick money into a stock block the brc set up with alum caps and matching girdle is way above the others. A lot of machine work involved though.
 
Yup I went and looked and saw 440 Source has it for 349, Hughes has it for 449 both of these are without new caps. Any difference in the 2 other than price?
The Mancini setup includes caps, meaning that I would need to Line Bore the block.


Caps the block will need align bored. I use to bore them close then finish with an align hone when I machined for a living.
 
Hi
I'm wondering at what power level will I need to install a girdle on my 400 stroker. I'm planning to upgrade my 451 to 511 and wanted to keep it safe and reliable. I do have main studs already on it.I got TFS240's with a 242-246 mechanical cam from Hughes with a Eddy RPM intake.
I'm sure with all the builds that our members have gone through, they will be able to shed some light on the subject.
I'm at 635 HP with my 512 stroker and I installed a custom made girdle and billet mains and caps beneath it. The bottom end had to be machined once the caps were on to ensure complete flatness across the block skirt and caps prior to installing the girdle. That's the correct way to do it. You don't need the crank in it when the machine shop does it. They not only hold the block from splitting, they also support the crank caps. Mine is 3/8 thick and milled perfectly flat when I bought it. Having two seams now instead of just one between the oil pan and block with a girdle, you really need to ensure flatness of all surfaces and "The Right Stuff" instead of gaskets is highly recommended. You'll also have to extend your pickup and really don't need a windage tray at all. After all was said and done, I had to use 1/8 inch of shimming under my mounts for pan and drag link clearance. In reply to the issue with the caps, mine go completely across the skirt under the girdle and they're not "walking" anywhere. Don't forget that you'll need new special bolts to do this.
 
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Sorry to hijack, but I have a related question...will a windage tray still fit with a main stud girdle?
 
Sorry to hijack, but I have a related question...will a windage tray still fit with a main stud girdle?
No, not even the expensive ones. You won't need it by virtue of the openings in the girdle. You will/should buy a new pickup but even it will have to be heated and slightly bent depending on the depth of pan you use. I bought a Morosso windage tray but couldn't use it but their pick-ups are cats *** for quality.
 
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