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1968 drip rail trim source

Cornpatch MO

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1968 - 70 Plymouth only, stainless drip edge for vinyl roof. I have searched the past post's and have determined that there is a difference between the vinyl and non vinyl roof drip edge trim. Confirmed by factory parts numbers. Also that there is a trim that will fit either, but I am skeptical about their installation. I am sure I have seen a vendor that offers both.
Any input would be appreciated....................MO
 
The reproduction trim fits both hardtop and vinyl top.


It is suppose to.....

I have heard that the factory vinyl top drip moldings had some kind of green markings on the inside of them. The top on my GTX had already been replaced when I bought it from the original owner in 76. When I took the moldings off when I started my restoration, there was no sign of any green on the inside of them, and I seriously doubt that they changed the moldings. But anything is possible. I would also like to hear from anyone that has used the reproductions on a vinyl top car because I am going to be up against the same issue soon.
 
It is suppose to.....

I have heard that the factory vinyl top drip moldings had some kind of green markings on the inside of them. The top on my GTX had already been replaced when I bought it from the original owner in 76. When I took the moldings off when I started my restoration, there was no sign of any green on the inside of them, and I seriously doubt that they changed the moldings. But anything is possible. I would also like to hear from anyone that has used the reproductions on a vinyl top car because I am going to be up against the same issue soon.
I have never seen any marking on the inside of the roof rail trim.......who knows...

It is mainly an issue on non vinyl cars when selecting used trim.....I have used the reproductions on vinyl and had no problems.....

With that being said I would prefer to spend the time and find good viable originals....
 
Vinyl top moldings.... slightly wider from factory for some reason.....non vinyl top trims will not fit over the edge of roof with the vinyl top material on the car...ran in to this several times so far....and I have seen the green ish blue color on inside of vinyl top drip rail trim before
 
My 69 Charger RT survivor with 36k documented miles.....Had NO markings beneath the trim....Without pictures to document this it is nothing more than a myth IMHO....I document everything....it could also be a plant thing as well one did it and the other did not but things like this need to be documented if true....Same goes for dimensions because when you look at a stack of trim to sort through it is difficult to tell....

I have fit non vinyl trim on a vinyl top....the vinyl has to be lapped over properly and it is tight...this would not be my first choice to try but not impossible....
 
I also believe that the factory may have used a tool to put on car without damaging.....and as a result it stretched more over the years..making it easier to get on a restored car
 
I also wonder if the green color on the vinyl top moldings could be a where built thing. My 69 was built at St. Louis, and I could not find any greenish markings on the trim.
 
Thanks all, this is good info. A little more would make this a good post for the archives.

How did you install your drip edge trim? We know about the metal can " church key" removal, but how do you install that trim over a vinyl roof without bending it? ....................MO
 
Thanks all, this is good info. A little more would make this a good post for the archives.

How did you install your drip edge trim? We know about the metal can " church key" removal, but how do you install that trim over a vinyl roof without bending it? ....................MO

The exact same way with the Church Key in reverse! Works incredibly well.
 
DO NOT HIT IT TO PUT IT ON.... Where he is rolling it on by hand if it is difficult use the church key to grab it and roll it ON. Works flawlessly and effortlessly

One comment is the put some padding on the face of the church key until you learn how hard you can press without putting a mark on the face of the moulding.

 
I don't like the church key method of removing drip rail moldings. You are using the the molding as a fulcrum pivot, risking denting the trim.
I take a putty knife to pry the underside lip over. This trim is just too fragile and hard to find undamaged.
 
I don't like the church key method of removing drip rail moldings. You are using the the molding as a fulcrum pivot, risking denting the trim.
I take a putty knife to pry the underside lip over. This trim is just too fragile and hard to find undamaged.

That is why mine is wrapped with a thick layer of foam tape on the face that presses on the show side of the moulding.
 
I don't like the church key method of removing drip rail moldings. You are using the the molding as a fulcrum pivot, risking denting the trim.
I take a putty knife to pry the underside lip over. This trim is just too fragile and hard to find undamaged.
I tried the church key method. used the rounded end for bottle caps Wrapped some masking tape around the end. Mine was on very tight and hard to get off. I wound up destroying the piece. Sure wasn't as easy as for that Mustang in the video.................MO
 
That is why mine is wrapped with a thick layer of foam tape on the face that presses on the show side of the moulding.
Maybe if I had used foam tape and got more cushion effect, I see how that may have made a difference. ...........................MO
 
And work it _really_ slow.. The video moulding had been off before......
Jim, could you give me some tips about putting the stainless trim back on the drip edge? Since I did not have trim for a vinyl roof drip edge, I bought new from AMD. We are going to install my top tomorrow.
I started looking at your build thread--60 some pages!!! It's going to take several sessions to see it all. Absolutey stunning job you did on your Coronet, A professional could not have done better. Thanks for your help....................MO
 
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