Leaking freeze plug repair

[pushrod]

I have a leaking freeze plug on the rear of the head on my 440. Does anyone have a good way to repair without pulling the head? I really don't want to pull the heads if at all possible. Thanks

 

[Bill Monk]

I'm not aware of anything that would permanently stop the leak, even if you find something to slow it down it's just going to come back. Might as well bite the bullet and pull the head

 

[68gtxman]

This will fix it without removing the head.

 

[pushrod]

Thanks.. I want to replace the freeze plug,
Just hoping someone has a trick way to replace them without all the hassle.

 

[dvw]

The trouble is most freeze plugs that leak are rusty on the back side. If one is leaking the others are probably near failure as well. If you can access the old one to knock it out. There is a rubber plug available. It is inserted and a nut is tightened to expand it.
Doug

 

[493 Mike]

If you have room, a short bit in a angle drill could make a hole for a hex head screw that you could try to pry out. After clean up the rubber style plug could be used. That being said, the long way is usually the best way. Good luck!
Mike

 

[YY1]

...or try to hammer a small chisel or screwdriver blade into the corner of the plug and then pry it out.

I doubt you will be able to press a new metal plug in, but you could put in a rubber expanding plug- the kind that you expand by tightening with a nut.

That would buy you several thousand miles.

 

[65wgn440]

Do you have a picture to show the amount of space you have to work with ? I've rigged up installation tools for some pretty tight areas.

 

[pushrod]

Thanks everyone for your input. I have decided to to do it right and just pull the heads and replace the freeze plugs.
I replaced all of them except the rears when I installed the motor after original crank up. Do this is on my lazy butt for not addressing the issue at that time.
You would think after seventy years I would be smaryet than that'. Time I'd not always my friend

 

[mopar 3 B]

The trouble is most freeze plugs that leak are rusty on the back side. If one is leaking the others are probably near failure as well. If you can access the old one to knock it out. There is a rubber plug available. It is inserted and a nut is tightened to expand it.
Doug

And when the rubber rotts back to square one. Fix it once and fix it right. Brass plugs and some sealer.

 

[dvw]

And when the rubber rotts back to square one. Fix it once and fix it right. Brass plugs and some sealer.

Personally I'd replace all of the previously nonreplaced parts with new steel plugs. However in a pinch the rubber one would probably outlast the other rusty ones not replaced if access is an issue.
Doug

 

[YY1]

brass

 

[wyrmrider]

rubber without pulling the heads
pull the heads? do a valve job and new viton stem seals?
might as well change the cam while you have it apart
slippery slope

 

[YY1]

...or unbolt the trans and pull the engine straight up...

 

[pushrod]

This is a newly built motor. All the freeze plug s have been replaced but for the two rears. YY1 that's what I am doing tomorrow. Thanks for everyone's input.

 

[SublimeSixpack]

If you're going to pull the head/heads I know you'll drain the radiator but might I suggest you also drain the block (side plugs).

 

[pushrod]

I'm not pulling the heads. Just removing the radiator, loosen the trans and electrical, carb removal and move the engine up and forward to get to the rear freeze plug s. I think that will keep me from having to remove the heads.
This thing screams so I am trying not to mess with something that works.

 

[wyrmrider]

take some pics

 

[Fran Blacker]

Maybe a pressure test before dropping it back in?

 

[dvw]

If the exhaust isn't in the way you might be able to remove the trans x member. Tilt the motor down far enough to access?
Doug