stuck!!!

[pwDave]

Ok, so I am making an up-grade to the oiling system on the old Plymouth, super stock rear sump pan w/dual line pick-up, the drag link goes thru the pan on this one. a problem has arisen, both tie rods popped loose with-out much fuss, and the pitman arm, the idler arm on the other hand is wanting to be stubbern and not come out, the taper is down in the hole of the drag link so far that the puller will not go on it, I've tapped on it with a small beater with out any results, and past this point with out being able to use the puller I'm on the way to the smoke wrench. anyone else run into this or simular and have a simpler or better solution?? I would be willing to bet its some chinee piece of crap that just slipped in there, if I try some heat on it, it shouldn't take much should it? Dave.

 

[493 Mike]

Ok, so I am making an up-grade to the oiling system on the old Plymouth, super stock rear sump pan w/dual line pick-up, the drag link goes thru the pan on this one. a problem has arisen, both tie rods popped loose with-out much fuss, and the pitman arm, the idler arm on the other hand is wanting to be stubbern and not come out, the taper is down in the hole of the drag link so far that the puller will not go on it, I've tapped on it with a small beater with out any results, and past this point with out being able to use the puller I'm on the way to the smoke wrench. anyone else run into this or simular and have a simpler or better solution?? I would be willing to bet its some chinee piece of crap that just slipped in there, if I try some heat on it, it shouldn't take much should it? Dave.

You should never use heat on steering components-old rule. Did you use a back-up hammer when striking the draglink? I have always got these apart with two hammers. Tap the nut end (with nut on to save the threads ) after every couple of heavy whacks to help the taper apart.
Mike

 

[Fran Blacker]

What used to is use the ball end of 2 32oz ball peen hammers and hit both sides at the same time. Like clapping with hammers, might take two or three wacks.

 

[65wgn440]

Yeah, no heat. Pickle fork (ball joint/tie-rod separator) !! I use a pneumatic one, but manual style works great, too.

 

[mopar 3 B]

All methods above except heat will work. Thing is do you intend on saving the seal?

 

[dvw]

A hard rap at 90 degrees will get it but it takes a solid hit.
Doug

 

[Ironbuilt]

If possible, use a dead blow hammer and whack it good. NEVER USE HEAT!!

 

[khryslerkid]

 

[mopar 3 B]

If possible, use a dead blow hammer and whack it good. NEVER USE HEAT!!

Dead blow? My dead blow hammer is not metallic. Is there such a thing?

 

[Ironbuilt]

Dead blow? My dead blow hammer is not metallic. Is there such a thing?

Yes, sir. They are not cheap, but Snap-on makes them in an asst. of sizes.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Yes, sir. They are not cheap, but Snap-on makes them in an asst. of sizes.
View attachment 597716

That's quite the finger smasher.

 

[Moparstyle]

Yep wack it like it owes you money never ever use heat

 

[pwDave]

All righty then, pneumatic hammer wins!!! went out to the shop and beat on it with my 2 lb er, then with the four lb er, nothing,, s;;t gonna happen with the air! took about .25 of a second to get it out of the frame, chucked it up in the vise and went to work on it, took about 15 seconds to get it loose from the drag link( with the air hammer) after that all went back together fine, except for the 6.5 quarts of used oil I managed to turn over in the floor...........DAMN!!!!!! put 30 lbs of oil dry on it, shovel it up tomorrow. thanks to all who answered the call, these parts were put on in 1976, so they have a right to be a little stubborn. Dave.

 

[pwDave]

All the going wrong stuff got over with the stuck idler and the spilled oil, put the rear sump pan on with out a hitch, big milodon pump, then the lines to the pump still have to do the radiator hose and then oil. the only other thing was the pump shaft was to long by an eighth of an inch, wafer wheel, wala, no more problem. the new tires went on with out a hitch, now I have to sell the ones I bought that were the wrong size, Darn!! hope these do the job. Thanks for the help with the idler arm, all is well now. Dave