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Torque converter advice

Sonny

It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
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I need a tc for my 727/440 combo, and know nothing about them. The car is a power tour/car show car. Not a race car or daily driver. The summit cam I’m looking at requires a 2k stall converter. What does that do to my drivability of my desired use of the car? As long as they match, will it perform normally in traffic and long trips?
 
I don't know what a power tour/car show car is, but a 2000 stahl converter would be pretty much the same as stock. I have a 2200 in my 727/383 combo and I literally cannot tell any difference between it and the factory converter, drives, takes off and stops exactly the same. I don't think you would notice a difference until you get up to at least 2500, maybe even 2800.
 
I don't know what a power tour/car show car is, but a 2000 stahl converter would be pretty much the same as stock. I have a 2200 in my 727/383 combo and I literally cannot tell any difference between it and the factory converter, drives, takes off and stops exactly the same. I don't think you would notice a difference until you get up to at least 2500, maybe even 2800.
Power tour is a 7 city, 6 day, 1,500 mile road trip. Lots of sitting in traffic.
 
It would help to know a little more about your car - model, rear axle ratio, cam specs, other engine mods.
 
It would help to know a little more about your car - model, rear axle ratio, cam specs, other engine mods.
Sure. 1970 Belvedere/rr clone. Stock rear end (8 1/4) stock gear, headers, dual plane intake, stock heads, Edelbrock 650 avs2 carb. Cam:
Summit Sum-K6401 Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 298/303, Lift .466/.488, Chrysler, Big Block, Kit.
 
For what its worth, I wouldnt go with a B&M. I tried in this winter and it wouldnt work with my flexplate. The one bolt hole on the converter that was supposed to be slightly off wasnt. I has to pull the 440 again. Summit was very respectable and gave me a refund and payed for shipping.

However I expected more from B & M. Who the hell wants to pull a 440 an extra time.

Whatever stall you go with, Id recommend a Hughes.
 
yes and Huges, lunati voodoo or Howard (look for the 15 code in the catalog) for an off the shelf cam
Summit brands are chevy transplants
you leave torque on the table- but they are well made
not knowing your build no recommendations on which one
and with the summit making less than ideal torque hard to say which converter
B&M must have changed converter vendors in the last several years as their supplier's owner died and the shop is gone- too bad- they were one of the best
 
Don't know if this helps but here is the TC I installed in my stock motor 440 GTX last year.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUP-24-25

My car is pretty stock except for 3.55 rear, mild transmission kit, Edelbrock 800 and 2-1/2 inch exhaust. It's probably a bit looser than I would ideally like and that is probably due to the weight of my car, motor size, etc. It does perform excellently for a heavy, stock motor GTX (full power, AC). I did talk with Hughes before ordering and this is what they recommended.
 
i have 2500 stall on my car with my slant six ,it takes of great , i daily drive it.
i would call hughes and ask like previous said , its all your specs together that will decide and what you want
 
What are you wanting from it? Just to match the cam recommendation? Future upgrade?
2000 is pretty stock, drivability will be normal and best suited for stop and go. The higher the stall the more slippage in the trans until RPMs hit the designed flash point. Creates more heat in stop and go scenarios.
 
That cam has a wide lobe separation angle, it will idle nice.
With that cam you can run your stock converter no problem. My question is do you know your calculated compression ratio? If you are around 10:1 it will be very difficult to eliminate predetination. 9:1 or less it should run well on higher octane fuel.
 
You need a tach in the car, to know your cruising rpm.
You want the convertor stall speed to be below, your cruising rpm, so you don't build too much heat in the tranny.
If most of your driving is at 2500rpm, then a 2200 convertor is fine.
If you cruise at 2000 rpm on the highway, leave the stock convertor in it.
That's kinda my, rule of thumb, on convertors, for what it's worth.
 
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