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Stick on trim removal procedures

multimopes

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Howdy people. I know this is a car site and even though it pertains to a truck, I figured I'd get a much faster response here than over on the Pickup Truck Forum where there are only a few on line usually, I did post it there as well.
I recently had to get another truck as my frame rusted and cracked all to hell on my much loved 99 Ram Sport. Estimates were for more money than I paid for the truck. Well, I got a (new to me) 2000 Ram Sport in much better condition. The former owner had installed some plastic, stick on type of air/bug deflector on the front top of the hood and fenders. Also, there is a tub type bed liner with again with stick on pieces on top sides of the bed. What is the best method to remove these pieces without damaging the paint??
 
Not sure exactly what or how attached. If adhesive you can saw the item off with waxed dental floss.
 
It appears to be affixed with 2 sided tape, like Scotch or something. I have seen windshields removed with a strand of wire. It sounds like what you suggested might work. I could even pry it off with a wood or plastic trim stick, but what would be used to remove the residual gunk?
 
Be gentle with solvent. Start with rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits. Sometimes you can soak the foam in silicone spray and gently scrap with a plastic knife.
 
Be gentle with solvent. Start with rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits. Sometimes you can soak the foam in silicone spray and gently scrap with a plastic knife.
Sounds good thank you, however, what would you recommend in twenty degree weather??
 
Heat gun, removed all the trim and badges on my SRT with it. Label and sticker remover after it’s off to get the rest of the double sided tape off.
 
Thank you both. I want to at least get the bed rail trim off as I want to install a tonneau cover and the trim will not allow it.
 
Heat gun, removed all the trim and badges on my SRT with it. Label and sticker remover after it’s off to get the rest of the double sided tape off.
There is a rotary tool called an eraser. If you don't have the tool you'll
need to buy one and the eraser pad. Go to your local automotive paint store and they will have this tool. This is the best way to remove 2 sided tape.
The only chemical you should use is wax and grease remover. Never use
a razor blade or metal tool for tape removal.
 
Would that tool be a Dremel type thing? The closest paint supply to me is about 20 miles away.
 
Heat gun worked fine for me



451470E8-A014-489C-8F84-D63E07CA2414.jpeg
 
I have used this stuff (see picture below) to soften the adhesive and then use waxed dental floss to gently pull away an emblem while "sawing" along the back side of the emblem. Afterwards, I use a soft cotton rag soaked with the 3M product to remove the residual glue/adhesive. Don't rush it. Patience is a virtue.

3m-general-purpose-adhesive-cleaner-group.jpg


I haven't ever removed large items. Heat sounds like a better approach for removal of the items. Then, use the 3M product to remove the residual adhesive from the painted surface.

Good luck.
 
Thank you for all the great suggestions. I will give it a shot tomorrow and see what works and what doesn't. Come to think about it, the bed rail was coming off on the last guy and it looks like he glued it down with black silicon rubber. I assume the heat and dental floss sawing should cut through that as well. I just hope he didn't use an epoxy glue, LOL.
 
For the rail removal I would carefully apply heat and carefully use one of these trim tools to separate/lift it. Harbor Freight has these trim tools. Patience is a virtue. Don't rush and don't force anything.
image_16103.jpg
 
Thank You DeltaV. I do in fact have 2 or 3 of those trim tools and a heat gun. I will give it a shot tomorrow and report back. They probably have that 3M stuff at my local Napa or Advance Auto! I hate this cold windy weather. I just had a new roof put on my house yesterday with O.A. Temps just under 30 and winds gusting over 40 mph. Even though they picked up most, there is residual debris in every direction around my house.
 
There is a product called Goof-Off that i sell to remove stickers, glue, latex paint drips. Doesn't remove solvent based paints but I would test it somewhere not visible to see if it damages the finish. Most paint and hardware stores sell it.

PS- I would test the 3M remover also before just using it.
 
Please note that the adhesive remover is flammable.
 
Thanks for the heads up, I don't have a real garage for my truck and will be working outside but will keep the flammability in mind when using anything flammable around the heat gun! I remember seeing advertisements for that Goof-Off stuff years ago. Do you have a website NJRR? let me know, I'd rather buy products from fellow FBBO folks than from strangers.
 
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Thanks for the heads up, I don't have a real garage and will be working outside but will keep the flammability in mind when using anything flammable around the heat gun! I remember seeing advertisements for that Goof-Off stuff years ago. Do you have a website NJRR? let me know, I'd rather buy products from fellow FBBO folks than from strangers.
I don't have an online store. I have a local paint and hardware store. Still alive even with Home Depot and Lowes only a half mile away !!!
Thanks for thinking of me though.
:thumbsup:
 
I don't have an online store. I have a local paint and hardware store. Still alive even with Home Depot and Lowes only a half mile away !!!
Thanks for thinking of me though.
:thumbsup:
Home depot & Lowe's. a great place to hunt.. for service. And then, you'll still have to keep hunting.. for someone knowledgeable. <put that sign in your window
 
There is a rotary tool called an eraser. If you don't have the tool you'll
need to buy one and the eraser pad. Go to your local automotive paint store and they will have this tool. This is the best way to remove 2 sided tape.
The only chemical you should use is wax and grease remover. Never use
a razor blade or metal tool for tape removal.
Its called an eraser wheel. Use it in a drill at low speed so you don't cook the paint. After you have it removed, you will need to buff the area because the eraser wheel mars/dulls the paint some. I have used the wire type cheese slicer to get the initial trim/emblems off then hit the tape with the eraser wheel. If you use the 3M adhesive remover, get the one in the red can. If you get the one with the yellow can, California compliant, it will jack up your paint and etch the trim that you may re-use. At the body shop I managed, we found out the hard way about the yellow can stuff. Insurance companies wanted the guys to clean and re-tape trim on jobs. They would soak the trim in little troughs, while they were working on other things, to soften up the tape. It was ok with the red can but the yellow jacked things up.
 
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