Engine Setup for 472 Hemi

[BIGWILLI]

Hello, I am new here. I need help from Hemi builder or expert.

I would like buy a new Hemi Block from Mopar Performance #P5160151AC (rough bored 4.24“).

I would engine is for Street Performance (no Strip etc.)
Stock 68 Coronet R/T, 4 Speed 18 Spline A833, 3.54 Dana S60, 295/50R15 on rear.

I would build engine with:

-Rotation Assembly from Indy (472 with 10:1)
-MP Iron or Alu Heads or Edelbrock Victor (ported minimal only gasket area)
-Intake 4x2bbl, I dont know what better, I think take MP or mod man from Indy)
-Rockers Assy: Mancini Racing (it is good?)
-Camshaft, what should take? I think take Hydraulic flat tappet
-Oil Pan maybe Milidon
-and other parts should all stock.

I need your help, what is good setup? Other proposal?

I think I would like habe about 550 to 600 horsepower. But torque should good and high too.

Important question: I cannot find information about MP (iron/Alu) heads. How much can max. lift of valve springs? By edelbrock victor can to .700“ lift.

Have anyone sell of Valve Covers (Black or MP Alu) and Air cleaner Assy (for 1970)?

 

[mmissile]

Put a 4.25 stroke crank in it, and get it to nearly 500 inches. All the parts cost about the same.

 

[PRHeads]

Don’t buy anything until you have the block in your possession, and it has been checked out and verified it’s a suitable piece for your build.

 

[andyf]

Exactly, don't worry about anything else until you have a block. Once you have a block in your hands then you can proceed with buying other parts. If it was me I'd go with a 4.25 stroke crankshaft and probably use the Edelbrock heads and intake manifold. Everything else is just details and the small parts are typically in stock or easy to find.

 

[BIGWILLI]

Of course I would buy a Block first. Step by step buy another parts.

I would know for a setup here. MP, Edelbrock or Indy heads is better

 

[BIGWILLI]

Put a 4.25 stroke crank in it, and get it to nearly 500 inches. All the parts cost about the same.

What Rods and pistons can I use? I have find never...

 

[Hemirunner]

What Rods and pistons can I use? I have find never...

Diamond Racing pistons and Molnar Rods. Molnar crank as well. As others have said, at least a 4.250 stroke crank.

Of course I would buy a Block first. Step by step buy another parts.

I would know for a setup here. MP, Edelbrock or Indy heads is better

The Edelbrock heads are the way to go. The Mancini rockers will work fine for a street build.

 

[PRHeads]

You really don’t need to worry about the other stuff until you have a block in your possession.

People have been waiting for well over a year to get one.

Don’t buy any other components until the block is in hand and you’re ready to move forward with the build, this way you can be using the most up to date parts available.

 

[Hemirunner]

You really don’t need to worry about the other stuff until you have a block in your possession.

People have been waiting for well over a year to get one.

Don’t buy any other components until the block is in hand and you’re ready to move forward with the build, this way you can be using the most up to date parts available.

Other than the Edelbrock top end stuff, nothing has changed in the G2 hemi world in a decade. He’s good even if it takes 5 years to get a block....

 

[Fran Blacker]

Hey there's a couple of short blocks on ebay. The catch $35,000+ each and look rusty?

 

[PRHeads]

Other than the Edelbrock top end stuff, nothing has changed in the G2 hemi world in a decade. He’s good even if it takes 5 years to get a block....

Yes, and no.
Piston forgings change, there were crank and rod offerings from manufacturers that don’t exist anymore.
Piston ring technology keeps advancing.

You could easily have bought bottom end parts 5 years ago, that have been sitting on the shelf unused, that if you needed a replacement for...... no longer exists.

Just one example...... K1 used to offer RB 4.250 cranks in 8 and 6 bolt, in both Mopar and Chevy width rod journals.
And, they had 7.100 rods in both widths as well.
Now, only Chevy width cranks, and no 7.100 rods.

There’s really no “up side” to buying bottom end stuff until you’re ready to start building the motor.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Yes, and no.
Piston forgings change, there were crank and rod offerings from manufacturers that don’t exist anymore.
Piston ring technology keeps advancing.

You could easily have bought bottom end parts 5 years ago, that have been sitting on the shelf unused, that if you needed a replacement for...... no longer exists.

Just one example...... K1 used to offer RB 4.250 cranks in 8 and 6 bolt, in both Mopar and Chevy width rod journals.
And, they had 7.100 rods in both widths as well.
Now, only Chevy width cranks, and no 7.100 rods.

There’s really no “up side” to buying bottom end stuff until you’re ready to start building the motor.

OP,you did not say if you were assembling yourself.IMOP if you are doing a fresh build,everything and I mean everything must me cleaned,cleaned then cleaned.You must measure everything 5 times and check and recheck EVERYTHING during assembly.There are many combos that just WORK! Consider a pro like PRH to calculate the combo.Port matching and valve job can make a difference.He has built so many BBMz the count has been lost!
Look at it as an entire package where everything works in harmony.
There are many builders,but few that can do the heads and valvetrain like Porter!

 

[Hemirunner]

Yes, and no.
Piston forgings change, there were crank and rod offerings from manufacturers that don’t exist anymore.
Piston ring technology keeps advancing.

For what he’s building, a 15 year discontinued rotating assembly would work just fine. Minimal risk to it in a street application. There’s very few builds in the old Mopar world that take advantage of any new piston ring tech. The biggest reason to not buy any other parts is that he may never get a block!

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Many "stock" parts can be used in a build like this including a good used block.The parts are out there and you need the right guy to help you put your package together!

 

[BIGWILLI]

does anyone have recommendation for Cylinder Heads, Intake s, Rocker Arms (mancini racing, good?)

or recommendation other parts?

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

does anyone have recommendation for Cylinder Heads, Intake s, Rocker Arms (mancini racing, good?)

or recommendation other parts?

https://www.google.com/search?q=mar....69i57j0l5.11176j1j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Tell Todd I sent you!He is a vendor for many different manufacturerers for blocks,heads,pistons and eveything you need to build a MOPAR!

 

[BIGWILLI]

So I am back here.
I have block (Callies) now, same parts are in my keller.

-Indy SR Heads with valve Spring for lift up to .560 (Comp Cam 928)
-MP stock intake manifold
-Mancini Racing valvetrain (stock rocker arms system)
-Milodon 7qt oil pan with windage tray
-Melling HV oil pump
-black wrinkle valve covers

my opinion setup:
-472 stroker kit (molnar crank+rods) and custom Diamond Pistons for 10.5:1
-clevite H-Serie bearing
-Comp Cam solid flat 235 or 250 or Crower 33253
-Edelbrock carbs 2x500cfm
-Carter high volume fuel pump

I need opinion from you what do you recommendation other setup…

1968 Dodge Coronet R/T
4Speed A833
3.54 Dana S60
Street (with mild to moderate performance)

 

[Fran Blacker]

Carbs need to be larger 500cfm is smaller than stock. MO. How's the machining on block? Does it need any fixing align hone decks squared etc.

 

[Runcharger]

I put a lot of miles on my 472 and I really liked it. It costs the same to go bigger but if you can't get a 472 to easily run in the 11's chances are a bigger engine will just burn more fuel too. With the rash of flat tappet cam failures I would go directly to a mild, solid roller. You need at least a pair of 650 carbs but better to go directly to fuel injection.

 

[BIGWILLI]

Block should only honing all cylinders…

choice of camshaft is hard… but i habe time… good to know I should put 2x650cfm carbs (maybe AVS2)