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Remove tank to change sender?

koosh

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After long searches here, lots of info regarding changing fuel senders, but I'm looking for a step by step how to remove the fuel tank and sender? (69 RR)
I assume removing tank would be much easier than trying to change sender in the car?
Thanks
 
You don’t have to remove the tank to remove the sender.....it is easy to remove it...
 
And try to save and reuse the retaining ring. The ones that you get with the sending unit are quite thin and flimsy compared to the original and are prone to leak. If you can't save the original get back to us. There might be some good ones floating around.
 
I makes life easier if you use the special spanner wrench to get the lock ring off.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-Fuel...010512?hash=item5219504a10:g:zNQAAOSw0J9bJpfx

If you are in southwest CT, you can borrow mine.

Remove most of the gas in the tank.

Be careful removing the ground clip, the new ones I've tried aren't made of spring steel and are useless.
It appears this can be done on the garage floor, without removing the tank?
Does the sender just unscrew? Is that all that's involved?
 
It appears this can be done on the garage floor, without removing the tank?
Does the sender just unscrew? Is that all that's involved?

Yes, if you can slide under the tank it can be done with the car on the floor.

The lock ring locks/unlocks after a quarter turn.

The sender sits on a rubber gasket, there are no threads anywhere.

You'll be pleasantly surprised how easy it is after you do it the first time.

http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/...el-tank-sending-unit-in-project-orange-crush/
 
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So far, I have these as recommendations for buying new fuel sender:
Mancini racing-pricey
Kramer Auto- pricey
Dixie restoration
Spectra @ Autozone
Anybody can pick the best?
 
Try Van's they sell a reproduction pretty cheap
 
@koosh - all good advice above....but before you do anything, drain as much fuel out of the tank BEFORE you start, then disconnect the battery.
After that, you should be able to support the rear of the car on jackstands (yes, I said jackstands again) - and 'drop' the tank part way down - no need to remove completely. then follow other steps from members above for removal of sender unit.
Tank does not need to be completely removed. :thumbsup:
 
Jack stands under the frame so the rear end droops and gives more room.
 
Guess i need to find a little symphon pump to empty the tank!
Thanks all, for all the input!
 
BEFORE.. you get carried away !! Is the sender actually bad? Did you try grounding your senders wire and verify that your gauge actually swings to full when you do so??
 
BEFORE.. you get carried away !! Is the sender actually bad? Did you try grounding your senders wire and verify that your gauge actually swings to full when you do so??
Yes, performed all the tests indicated here on the forum....so, fingers crossed it's the sender!
 
Posts above are oh so right....what I would say is installing the new one is easier with the tank off, or dropped slightly as Kiwi stated, strictly for the fact that the new-age lockrings are crappy and the only way I've gotten them to hold properly, is to keep tapping them into a good alignment while tightening them down at the same time. Otherwise the little tangs like to not sit where you need them to=leaky.
 
Posts above are oh so right....what I would say is installing the new one is easier with the tank off, or dropped slightly as Kiwi stated, strictly for the fact that the new-age lockrings are crappy and the only way I've gotten them to hold properly, is to keep tapping them into a good alignment while tightening them down at the same time. Otherwise the little tangs like to not sit where you need them to=leaky.
Couldn't I use the old lockring?
 
Couldn't I use the old lockring?
Oh yeah, I was just assuming you were replacing everything...if your original ring is in good shape it's better than the new ones.
 
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