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Remove tank to change sender?

Just got done doing a sender change on my 74 charger. I ended up dropping the tank completely because I didn't stumble on this thread first...and wanted to make full use of my transmission jack.
As piece of mind I tested the new sender first by grounding the body of the unit to the frame of the car and plugging the sending lead. Then I would prop the float arm at high, med, and low positions while I went to take a look at the fuel gauge. You need power to test this though. I performed this test while all the old stuff was still hooked up.
 
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Another question.
Do you know what the tank looks like inside?
If it's original and you've never look at it. This would be a real good time to take it out and inspect it.
Good luck.
 
Does the sender just unscrew? Is that all that's involved?

Did it just quit working? Is the sending unit grounded via a strap from the line on it (passing over the rubber section) and attached to the hard line?

Ground sending unit wire, turn the key on and see if the gauge pegs, make this quick or else you can damage the gauge.

As mentioned, drain tank, remove fuel lines and sending unit wire, ground clip, tap the lock ring out BRASS TOOL IS RECOMMENDED here so you don't get sparks, fumes and sparks don't play nice together. Once the lock ring is off, you can work the sending unit out..
 
So far, I have these as recommendations for buying new fuel sender:
Mancini racing-pricey
Kramer Auto- pricey
Dixie restoration
Spectra @ Autozone
Anybody can pick the best?

Mancini maybe pricey BUT they always work! You can not say that about many of the other units for sale.
Some people have to install two or three to get one that works right.
Don't go for cheap, very often you get what you pay for in sending units!
 
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