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Glove box won't stay shut

Roscoethug

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:46 PM
Joined
Jul 6, 2018
Messages
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Location
Pennsylvania
Hoping for some advice and solution. The glove box door keeps popping open while driving, I'm guessing due to vibration. The lock and striker seem OK. Anybody else have this problem?
 
Hoping for some advice and solution. The glove box door keeps popping open while driving, I'm guessing due to vibration. The lock and striker seem OK. Anybody else have this problem?
Had same issues with my 68 Charger. Tried adjusting different ways. Did not work, finally broke down and bought new latch. Seem to have fixed the problem. I replaced the one on the frame.
 
Took the lock out, disassembled lock completely, cleaned and lubed with graphite, adjusted striker. No more problems.:thumbsup:
 
Grabbing second gear too hard will normally cause this.
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Give it a shot of gun oil and see if your problems go away...
Maybe a good blast of “Crud Cutter” to clean it out first. Give it a couple minutes to dry, then some light oil or graphite.
 
I put a small washer under each screw between the latch and dash frame to shim the latch up some on my Roadrunner. It took the phantom glove box opening away and fixed it.
 
Used pliers to SLIGHTLY bend down the upper tab so the latch would have more to grip. Problem solved.
 
Maybe a good blast of “Crud Cutter” to clean it out first. Give it a couple minutes to dry, then some light oil or graphite.

I can guarantee you that if you ever spray gun oil in a sticky latch or lock, especially a GMC Trailblazer back door/window assembly, you'll never pick up a can of ANY other lubricant again for locks/latches.

I spent 2 days on a TB latch with every lubricant under the sun to get it to 70% reliability. One shot of gun oil and it was 100% and still is 4 years later. Almost caught myself today with my Bee's truck lock. It wouldn't self return on the latch spring and I for some stupid reason grabbed a can of Krown. Made it a bit better, but not right. One light shot of gun oil and it works flawless, returns to straight up even with the keys hanging in it. Try it on your next sticky latch....
 
Had same issue. Hit a bump and bang open right up. I adjusted the latch, hinges cleaned all up and even tried to see if the frame where the hinges attached was bent etc, nothing worked. Bought new latch, bingo now stays closed over worst Maine bumps!
 
I think that rod going across that the latch grabs is sprung somewhat from factory. When it gets old and worn, I believe it loses its ability to hold pressure against the latch and pops open under stress.
 
Thanks everybody for the fast responses. Colorado Dave - explain what you bent down from the upper tab... On the glove box door, there is lock with a toe that retracts when you push the button. Is that what you bent? The lower piece is a spring loaded bar, which I've adjusted the position and shimmed with washers without effect. I'll try gun oil and as a last resort may take a small rat tail file and file a groove in the toe in hopes the bar has a place to "nest" in the toe. If nothing works, I'll be picking up a new lock and striker.
 
Thanks everybody for the fast responses. Colorado Dave - explain what you bent down from the upper tab... On the glove box door, there is lock with a toe that retracts when you push the button. Is that what you bent?

No, it's the metal tab that's screwed to the top of the box, that retractable latch catches that tab to hold it closed. Either that tab is to far back that it can't catch or it is to high where it still won't catch. I believe that the upper tab is slotted so that you can moved it fore or aft for door alignment with the dash. It's a trail & error thing to get it right. Good Luck
 
My 63 has a spring steel 'tab' that's screwed to the top of the glove box opening. It is adjustable fore and aft by loosening the 2 mounting screws. In my case, I had to bend the tab down about a 1/16" to give the 'foot' of the latch assembly a little more surface area to engage.
In looking at the 68-70 piece it shows a spring loaded latch bar at the top of the opening. Could it be that the spring is not applying enough force to hold the latch in engagement? If you've shimmed it down with washers and haven't solved the problem, the glove box door hinges are still tight, and the rubber bumpers are in place, I think I'd look at replacing the upper tab assembly.

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/plymouth/all-models/parts/mp14051.html
 
My 63 has a spring steel 'tab' that's screwed to the top of the glove box opening. It is adjustable fore and aft by loosening the 2 mounting screws. In my case, I had to bend the tab down about a 1/16" to give the 'foot' of the latch assembly a little more surface area to engage.
In looking at the 68-70 piece it shows a spring loaded latch bar at the top of the opening. Could it be that the spring is not applying enough force to hold the latch in engagement? If you've shimmed it down with washers and haven't solved the problem, the glove box door hinges are still tight, and the rubber bumpers are in place, I think I'd look at replacing the upper tab assembly.

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/plymouth/all-models/parts/mp14051.html
I've shimmed and adjusted the lower piece, and if that doesn't work I'll remove the sims from the lower and shim the upper piece. It closes tight, hinges are good, the and the glove box door doesn't jiggle at all. If this eastern PA weather ever breaks, I'll take it out for a ride and see if it worked.
 
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