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b body 833 trans

Plytruck

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hi all, 2nd post on forum, I hope some can help a mopar newby!!! I have a 1970 b body 833 #pp8333107, I picked up a hurst shifter, it is a b body-e body shifter has #7180 on rev upside down, I have a small block bell #2892482, 10.5" clutch disc and pp. these are going behind my hemi and in my 40 Plymouth truck.
1. can I use 68-69 b body shift linkage for front mount?
2 how do I i.d. proper shift linkage, numbers?? measurements???
3.the bell does not have the clutch fork, ball, or z bar. not sure exactly what I need to look for and again how to I.D. Numbers???
I called brewers and asked questions, was treated pretty rude. was told I cannot do what I want to do and the parts would not work together. Guess the guy was thinking numbers matching type assembly, but this is a 1940 Plymouth truck!!
thanks for any help!!!
scott

833-1.jpg 833-2.jpg 833-3.jpg 833-4.jpg 833.jpg 833s.jpg
 
Welcome! Well I can tell you that the shifter for the 68-69 will bolt onto that mounting plate on the forward mount just like it would in a 68-70 B-Body. The linkages I know they make repop kits which work well if you don't have certain pieces and are unsure what rods you have/don't have. That is just one option. You might have an issue as far as where the shifter comes up through the floor being setup for an offset hump in the floor in a car. If you use a console and console shifter handle, it will center the shifter handle more in the truck possibly if needed. Also, your Z bar mount for the outboard side will need to be fabricated as will all the pedal hookups, as that stuff almost guaranteed will not line up to factory pedals in a truck setup. You might be better off going hydraulic throwout bearing and slave cylinder to simplify the setup and get rid of all the mechanical parts that will be a bear to get lined up. Not saying it can't be done, but that hydraulic setup will be alot easier I bet in a custom hot rod truck application. Make sure the bellhousing ID hole is the same size as the bearing retainer OD on the transmission as that will align the trans in the bellhousing. I just ran into that a few months back on my Charger and had to buy a new retainer to match my bellhousing.
 
If you are persistent and look at the geometry of how this setup works in the factory cars you can make it happen with fabrication skills and good measurements. I think this problem is why most Street Rodders give up and go with an automatic. 91r/t is right a hydraulic clutch setup is the best for you. Hang in there and have something unique.
 
I assume you're using a late model Hemi?
 
I would think so, as it was mentioned a small block bell. Sounds like a very unique ride if he can pull it off.
No it is a 1955 Desoto 291. 426 flywheel with crank flange adapter and adapter from hemi to bell housing
 
Welcome! Well I can tell you that the shifter for the 68-69 will bolt onto that mounting plate on the forward mount just like it would in a 68-70 B-Body. The linkages I know they make repop kits which work well if you don't have certain pieces and are unsure what rods you have/don't have. That is just one option. You might have an issue as far as where the shifter comes up through the floor being setup for an offset hump in the floor in a car. If you use a console and console shifter handle, it will center the shifter handle more in the truck possibly if needed. Also, your Z bar mount for the outboard side will need to be fabricated as will all the pedal hookups, as that stuff almost guaranteed will not line up to factory pedals in a truck setup. You might be better off going hydraulic throwout bearing and slave cylinder to simplify the setup and get rid of all the mechanical parts that will be a bear to get lined up. Not saying it can't be done, but that hydraulic setup will be alot easier I bet in a custom hot rod truck application. Make sure the bellhousing ID hole is the same size as the bearing retainer OD on the transmission as that will align the trans in the bellhousing. I just ran into that a few months back on my Charger and had to buy a new retainer to match my bellhousing.
My bell is 4.3, trans is 4.8. This can be changed?
 
I find it difficult to believe anyone from Brewer's treated you rudely....
 
My bell is 4.3, trans is 4.8. This can be changed?

You can't go smaller on the trans. You will have to find a large hole bellhousing. You can only convert from a small bolt circle small OD bearing retainer to the large retainer on the tranny. The large bolt pattern trans you have will only accept 4.805" retainers.
 
You can't go smaller on the trans. You will have to find a large hole bellhousing. You can only convert from a small bolt circle small OD bearing retainer to the large retainer on the tranny. The large bolt pattern trans you have will only accept 4.805" retainers.
Is there enough meat on the bell that it could be machined larger? Someone with a Bridgeport could do it....
 
I find it difficult to believe anyone from Brewer's treated you rudely....
I think he was thinking in a numbers matching situation. He was very direct. I tried to explain I was building a 40 truck, not an actual b body so locations and seat types and tower angles did not matter much
 
Might I suggest selling the small block bellhousing and buying the bellhousing you need instead, I don’t think I’d want to machine out the small diameter opening to accept the larger bearing retainer size. I’m thinking that the integrity of the bell after matching wouldn’t be there vs one cast in the proper size. Probably, if you add the cost of machining to the cost of the small block bell that would be about the same as buying a new large bearing retainer bell from brewers. They are $349 for the repop one and include the fork pivot with it..?
 
No it is a 1955 Desoto 291. 426 flywheel with crank flange adapter and adapter from hemi to bell housing
Thanks for the update and congratulations for keeping it all Mopar. 55 was the 291 in the Desoto and 56 was the 330 as in my 56 Desoto Wagon.
 
If your trans has a 307 front bearing with a 3.70 inch bolt circle then you can swap to a smaller retainer.
 
Might I suggest selling the small block bellhousing and buying the bellhousing you need instead, I don’t think I’d want to machine out the small diameter opening to accept the larger bearing retainer size. I’m thinking that the integrity of the bell after matching wouldn’t be there vs one cast in the proper size. Probably, if you add the cost of machining to the cost of the small block bell that would be about the same as buying a new large bearing retainer bell from brewers. They are $349 for the repop one and include the fork pivot with it..?
I don't have any small block bells laying around to look at.....heck, don't even have a BB housing anymore but if it could be done without compromising it's integrity, I would do it for 75 bucks. Aligning it on the table wouldn't be a problem and would most likely be less than an hour total time setting up and cutting it....and you would only be taking about 1/4" per side. And I do accept tips :D
 
I think he was thinking in a numbers matching situation. He was very direct. I tried to explain I was building a 40 truck, not an actual b body so locations and seat types and tower angles did not matter much
I'm willing to bet your application does not have many "experts" on planet earth to ask questions of. :)
 
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