Thanks, Mike. But, that’s not the case with mine. I have all aftermarket stuff. Carb, kickdown cable, no linkage. In order for my pump to fully return I had to put a return spring on the pump. But, there’s a reason for wanting to know. I’ve, had issues with the tranny kicking down. I know the pump has to be fully open at full throttle (arm all the way back to rear of car). Regardless of what I’ve tried, it just won’t work and I’ve tried absolutely everything. I’m wanting to know about the return spring. Because I’m wanting to know if the pump arm absolutely, positively needs to be
Thanks, Mike. Everything works fine, but regardless of what I do, the kd hasn’t worked since I bought it, Adjusted bands, adjusted the actual pump inside, adjusted pump arm a dozen times and it will not engage kick down. It shifts on its own in drive and second and doesn’t slip. Just no kick down. I can’t figure it out, I tried everything.
That’s a good possibility. I adjusted both bands to specifications. After I did, it quit shifting automatically in drive. That tells me the bands are a little worn. So, I adjusted the front band a half turn in beyond recommended turns. It shifts great automatically in drive now. It also shifts good automatically in 2nd. But, I left the rear band at factory spec because I would have to take the pan off and drain the tranny again. Based on the front band. I’m thinking the rear band needs to be turned in more too. Maybe, that is the problem and it will start kicking down if I adjust it further too ? It never slips one bit. All symptoms are great, but it never has kicked down once since I owned it. So, I know they aren’t too loose. But, maybe the rear one isn’t quite tight enough. But, I won’t know until I try it. I’ve tried everything else. Increased pump pressure too, by increasing the spring load on the actual pump inside the tranny. But, that didn’t work. Thank you, for your insight. I appreciate it.
Lokar, cable. Instructions are useless based on what I found out. I stopped this evening to talk to a local guy that works only on transmissions every day and has long as I can remember. He confirmed and agreed with what I thought the problem was. He also said the pump arm also has to be fully disengaged toward front of car at idle for it to work properly. The travel distance is different on the aftermarket carburetor butterfly swing compared to the travel distance on the pump arm. A cable alone won’t get them to match. On both ends of the swings. He explained to me how you can achieve it through a couple different measurements at the axes of the carburetor butterfly shaft. Then I would need to fabricate a piece off the carburetor to make it work. Because, I don’t exactly understand the measurement process it requires. But, I do understand basically what he tried to explain. It’s going to take some trials and errors to figure it out. And probably several different fabrication attempts to get it right. I thought throwing a Lokar cable on it would be cut and dry. As it’s adjustable. But, that fact alone. Doesn’t make both ends of the swings, match.
