Adjusting Front Wheel Bearings

[Dibbons]

I am looking for a video to explain front disc bearing adjustment. Still looking ...

I did find this video for drum brakes (1966 model). I can't vouch for the accuracy of the tutorial, use your best judgment.

 

[Dibbons]

Here is a video with disc brakes (not a Mopar). Again, may or may not be the best way for our vehicles.

 

[69Bee]

My '69 book says to tighten nut to 90 in/lb while turning wheel, install lock cover lining up a slot with the cotter hole, then back off one slot. My '77 van manual says to tighten nut to 360-480 in/lb while rotating wheel, then loosen completely and tighten with fingers, install lock and cotter pin. Both methods result in in an endplay of 0.0001" to 0.003" which is the spec.

 

[64BEL]

The way I was taught years ago was to tighten the nut down tight while spinning the drum to preload it. The drum becomes tight to spin at that point. Then back it off while rotating the drum until it spins freely. After that, tighten it just snug (very minimal or no free play), install the pin in the closest hole, and that's it. I still do it this way today. I've never had a bearing failure. I repack all 4 of my trailer drums every spring and do the cars as needed.

 

[RJRENTON]

My '69 book says to tighten nut to 90 in/lb while turning wheel, install lock cover lining up a slot with the cotter hole, then back off one slot. My '77 van manual says to tighten nut to 360-480 in/lb while rotating wheel, then loosen completely and tighten with fingers, install lock and cotter pin. Both methods result in in an endplay of 0.0001" to 0.003" which is the spec.

EXCELLENT advice......follow the FSM directions and tolerances. Tapered roller bearings (regardless of the manufacturer-albeit Timken, SKF, RBC, Delco NDH, NTN, etc.) need a small amount of endplay to allow for thermal expansion, as in the coefficient of linear expansion suggests. Using the above recommendations, I try to achieve 0.001" - 0.002" end play, WITHOUT the caliper in place, just the rotor spinnjng. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

 

[Dibbons]

With the disc calipers in place, my rotors don't want to spin at all, is something wrong there?

 

[Beekeeper]

are you saying they won’t turn at all by hand
or they don’t free spin when you turn them?

 

[Dibbons]

When I try to spin 'em by hand they only rotate about 1/4 of a turn and stop.

 

[Beekeeper]

ok there’s gonna be some friction between the pads and rotor so you are good there

 

[Beekeeper]

I’m sure it’s obvious but the bearing preload needs to set before the caliper and pads go on

 

[66Satellite47]

With the disc calipers in place, my rotors don't want to spin at all, is something wrong there?

I suspect that the piston is not completely retracted if you have pads in place. I normally set the bearing before putting the caliper on.

 

[Dibbons]

I plan to rework all the front brake stuff soon, just want to compare how it stands now to after completion after replacing brake parts and bearings.

 

[66Satellite47]

The way I was taught years ago was to tighten the nut down tight while spinning the drum to preload it. The drum becomes tight to spin at that point. Then back it off while rotating the drum until it spins freely. After that, tighten it just snug (very minimal or no free play), install the pin in the closest hole, and that's it. I still do it this way today. I've never had a bearing failure. I repack all 4 of my trailer drums every spring and do the cars as needed.

I have also used this method for 45 years. I tighten till rotating the drum gets fairly tight, snug, Then back the nut off till it rotates freely for several rotations, tighten the nut VERY slowly till I feel a VERY slight drag, make sure the lock cap is real close then put the pin in. Never had a failure. 90 inch pounds seems tough for a back yard guy like me to achieve.

 

[RJRENTON]

Many years ago, I was driving to work in my old work car, a 1964 Ford Galaxie 500, of which i just performed a ftont end rebuild. HOWEVER, I neglected to follow proper wheel bearings installation procedures. The result...I had a right front wheel bearing failure where the bearing got so hot that the outboard threaded spindle twisted off, and while making a gradual right turn, resulting in the right front wheel, tire, brake drum assembly departing the car allowing the car to come down on the bumper and lower control arm on the road, in a dhower of sparks. I hit the brakes only to have the peddle go to the floor....all at 50 MPH. After changing my shorts, for obvious reasons, and quitting shaking, i went looking for the tire and wheel in the weeds.....moral of the story.....mske sure you lubricate the bearings and MAKE SURE the bearings are adjusted correctly. That's my sad tale of woe.
BOB RENTON

 

[91r/t]

I suspect that the piston is not completely retracted if you have pads in place. I normally set the bearing before putting the caliper on.

This is the same way I do it. It's impossible to get it correct with the drag of the brakes involved.

 

[YY1]

It's really more of an art than a science.

In between drag and slop.

I've seen bearings fail after less than 100 miles after following "the book" to the letter.

 

[66Satellite47]

Many years ago, I was driving to work in my old work car, a 1964 Ford Galaxie 500, of which i just performed a ftont end rebuild. HOWEVER, I neglected to follow proper wheel bearings installation procedures. The result...I had a right front wheel bearing failure where the bearing got so hot that the outboard threaded spindle twisted off, and while making a gradual right turn, resulting in the right front wheel, tire, brake drum assembly departing the car allowing the car to come down on the bumper and lower control arm on the road, in a dhower of sparks. I hit the brakes only to have the peddle go to the floor....all at 50 MPH. After changing my shorts, for obvious reasons, and quitting shaking, i went looking for the tire and wheel in the weeds.....moral of the story.....mske sure you lubricate the bearings and MAKE SURE the bearings are adjusted correctly. That's my sad tale of woe.
BOB RENTON

Pretty sure we all have made mistakes. Fortunately for me I haven't made that one. I did have a tie rod end fail & had to drive it home a few miles with the tire screeching the whole time. Tire barely survived.
Not sure why the tie rod end sleeve failed.

 

[turbine68rt]

I am looking for a video to explain front disc bearing adjustment. Still looking ...

I did find this video for drum brakes (1966 model). I can't vouch for the accuracy of the tutorial, use your best judgment.

The "accuracy" is exactly what is in the fsm.