Fuel Issue?

[Don Frelier]

Maybe when you cleaned it you actually got crud in the idle passages.

They are small. You can try the old back out the idles screws quite a ways, then play with the throttle up and down.
Or remove the idle screws and try carb cleaner/air to blow them out.
Best way of course is to remove and disassemble again.
Sound like once the choke came off it would quit too lean.
Or maybe you do have more loading in gear than before.
Neutral or Park should be the same as always.

 

[RJRENTON]

The carb is a Carter 9635S, not an eddy. The carb was taken apart and cleaned just to be sure it wasn't the problem. I do have the car running again now. You guys can tell me if this makes sense - I noticed the car was dying right after the throttle fully opened and idle would get really slow. I shot some starter fluid in it and got it running again, then started playing with the idle screw increasing the idle when it seems like the car was stumbling. It kept running! It still needs dialed in but ran for 10 minutes without issues. So why would that idle be so far off all of a sudden? Well when I had the tranny rebuilt I had a new torque converter put in. Wouldn't that change of stall speed cause me to have to adjust idle speed? That's all I can think of. Hoping it keeps running. Thanks for all the input. I'll post some pics soon, right now it's wet sanded awaiting polish.

FYI.....
The Carter carb referenced is:
9635S GM-Universal Linkage electric choke
Performance Features:
* 625 CFM
* Emission & EGR Hookup Provisions
* Dual Floats
* No Power Valve, No Sticky Gaskets
* Spring Loaded Needle & Seat Assemblies
* Square Mounting Flange - Bolt On Improvement

Because GM uses/used a different fuel calibration settings than the Mopar or Edlebrock carbs, have you experienced any other issues prior to the current ones?
When the carb was apart, did you check the FLOAT DROP setting? If not set correctly, fuel could be introduced late causing an overall lean condition, causing your problems. Are there pull clips on the float to inlet needle valves? Very necessary to insure the fuel is admitted as soon as the level drops slightly.
The Torque converter 's stall speed should not affect the idle speed once set. It would not or should not effect idle speed only the low speed driveability of the car, but I'm not an expert in this issue. Out of curiosity, why did you select a GM designed carb for a Mopar application....?
BOB RENTON

 

[Coronet67guy]

FYI.....
The Carter carb referenced is:
9635S GM-Universal Linkage electric choke
Performance Features:
* 625 CFM
* Emission & EGR Hookup Provisions
* Dual Floats
* No Power Valve, No Sticky Gaskets
* Spring Loaded Needle & Seat Assemblies
* Square Mounting Flange - Bolt On Improvement

Because GM uses/used a different fuel calibration settings than the Mopar or Edlebrock carbs, have you experienced any other issues prior to the current ones?
When the carb was apart, did you check the FLOAT DROP setting? If not set correctly, fuel could be introduced late causing an overall lean condition, causing your problems. Are there pull clips on the float to inlet needle valves? Very necessary to insure the fuel is admitted as soon as the level drops slightly.
The Torque converter 's stall speed should not affect the idle speed once set. It would not or should not effect idle speed only the low speed driveability of the car, but I'm not an expert in this issue. Out of curiosity, why did you select a GM designed carb for a Mopar application....?
BOB RENTON

I most certainly didn't select it, the carb was already on the car when I got it. It's been nothing but headaches. Maybe it's time to grab an Eddy. That's what I've always done before.

 

[Don Frelier]

An edelbrock is a carter design.
Just an FYI

 

[Coronet67guy]

FYI.....
The Carter carb referenced is:
9635S GM-Universal Linkage electric choke
Performance Features:
* 625 CFM
* Emission & EGR Hookup Provisions
* Dual Floats
* No Power Valve, No Sticky Gaskets
* Spring Loaded Needle & Seat Assemblies
* Square Mounting Flange - Bolt On Improvement

Because GM uses/used a different fuel calibration settings than the Mopar or Edlebrock carbs, have you experienced any other issues prior to the current ones?
When the carb was apart, did you check the FLOAT DROP setting? If not set correctly, fuel could be introduced late causing an overall lean condition, causing your problems. Are there pull clips on the float to inlet needle valves? Very necessary to insure the fuel is admitted as soon as the level drops slightly.
The Torque converter 's stall speed should not affect the idle speed once set. It would not or should not effect idle speed only the low speed driveability of the car, but I'm not an expert in this issue. Out of curiosity, why did you select a GM designed carb for a Mopar application....?
BOB RENTON

Any suggestions on a carb? My 400 HP Charger does have EGR and the vacuum canister still hooked up but in my state no emissions testing so don't really need it.

 

[RJRENTON]

I most certainly didn't select it, the carb was already on the car when I got it. It's been nothing but headaches. Maybe it's time to grab an Eddy. That's what I've always done before.

Personally, my preference would be an original Carter AVS, but many people prefer Edelbrock (Eddy) and there are several current designs available. I would suggest, IF you are contemplating a change, to call Edelbrock, if this is your choice, and ask them for a recommendation based on your particular application (cam, rear gears, compression ratio, intended use, etc), rather taking someone elses word or recommendation, after all who knows their product best.....and don t over carburate. Just my opinion of course.
Link www.edelbrock.com/carburetors/performer-series/
BOB RENTON

 

[Coronet67guy]

Personally, my preference would be an original Carter AVS, but many people prefer Edelbrock (Eddy) and there are several current designs available. I would suggest, IF you are contemplating a change, to call Edelbrock, if this is your choice, and ask them for a recommendation based on your particular application (cam, rear gears, compression ratio, intended use, etc), rather taking someone elses word or recommendation, after all who knows their product best.....and don t over carburate. Just my opinion of course.
Link www.edelbrock.com/carburetors/performer-series/
BOB RENTON

I would prefer the original Carter AVS myself, but not sure where to find one, or what model is for a mopar application not a GM one.

 

[turbine68rt]

Any suggestions on a carb? My 400 HP Charger does have EGR and the vacuum canister still hooked up but in my state no emissions testing so don't really need it.

Have you looked at the 1906 AVS2 yet?

 

[Coronet67guy]

Have you looked at the 1906 AVS2 yet?

I did. Looks super nice but JEGS doesn't list my P code high performance 400 motor under fitment. I don't know if I agree, seems a 650 would work. Looking at a new intake too. (stock single plane now). JEGS wants to push me up to a 750cm for my setup. Thanks.

 

[Aeronet]

You need a Thermoquad. That is what came on a '74 P code 400.

 

[Don Frelier]

Judging from the filter he has a fuel quality issue.
I would work on that first.

If the throttle shafts are not worn then I don't see any reason why you can't get it to run well with the carb you have.
Carter made carburetors for GM, Ford, Chrysler and AMC.
The carb should work on any similar sized engine.
It needs to be thoroughly cleaned and like Bob said the float level and drop set correctly.
Then just change the pump shot clusters, jets and metering rods as necessary and tune it for the engine.

 

[Coronet67guy]

Judging from the filter he has a fuel quality issue.
I would work on that first.

If the throttle shafts are not worn then I don't see any reason why you can't get it to run well with the carb you have.
Carter made carburetors for GM, Ford, Chrysler and AMC.
The carb should work on any similar sized engine.
It needs to be thoroughly cleaned and like Bob said the float level and drop set correctly.
Then just change the pump shot clusters, jets and metering rods as necessary and tune it for the engine.

I agree. For now I'm going to get the intake and stay with the Carter I have. It's already been rebuilt once and then throughly cleaned again. I can keep my eye out for a good 6457 or 6489. I'll need to research those. I show both were used on a 400 A/T in 1974. Thanks!

 

[70chall440]

The tranny/TC repair/replacement has nothing to do with it idling. If it ran well prior to the transmission work and now is having problems, my first vote would be a vacuum leak caused by the engine moving around during the trans removal. You can check this by spraying a little starter fluid around the base of the carb, all hose connections, etc. If the engine RPM increases you found your leak. My second vote would be that something got into the carb and is sticking or gumming it up. Get it running, slowly increase RPM and listen to it, return to idle, then rev the motor manually several times; like pull the throttle arm wide open or close a few time. You are trying to get the carb to clear itself. Last vote would be that you perhaps fouled a plug or have an issue with plug wires or even perhaps distributor cap. You need to think of all of these things as systems (fuel system, ignition system, etc.) and they all have to work right to make the overall system (the engine) run properly.

 

[Moparnocar]

The tranny/TC repair/replacement has nothing to do with it idling. If it ran well prior to the transmission work and now is having problems, my first vote would be a vacuum leak caused by the engine moving around during the trans removal. You can check this by spraying a little starter fluid around the base of the carb, all hose connections, etc. If the engine RPM increases you found your leak. My second vote would be that something got into the carb and is sticking or gumming it up. Get it running, slowly increase RPM and listen to it, return to idle, then rev the motor manually several times; like pull the throttle arm wide open or close a few time. You are trying to get the carb to clear itself. Last vote would be that you perhaps fouled a plug or have an issue with plug wires or even perhaps distributor cap. You need to think of all of these things as systems (fuel system, ignition system, etc.) and they all have to work right to make the overall system (the engine) run properly.

IF doing this, keep a fire extinguisher ready...old plug wires like to leak voltage..I found out the hard way when I was young .

 

[myk r sanchez]

Back in '95 I had the charger's 727 rebuilt and a remanned torque converter installed. The second i got the car back it had an off-idle stumble that I would spend the next twenty years trying to fix.

The car went through multiple carbs, ignition systems, engines, an entirely new fuel system and even another transmission rebuild, and the off-idle stumble remained through all of it. Someone on dodgecharger.com suggested that the torque converter could be "too tight " for my application. I ended up getting a new one rated at 2500rpm and suddenly the off-idle stumble was gone. I think this torque converter is too loose: the car doesnt start moving until 1700 rpm, but I'll take that over the off idle stumble.

I'm just trying to say that the torque converter/transmission work can have an affect on driveability; it did on my car...

 

[Coronet67guy]

Back in '95 I had the charger's 727 rebuilt and a remanned torque converter installed. The second i got the car back it had an off-idle stumble that I would spend the next twenty years trying to fix.

The car went through multiple carbs, ignition systems, engines, an entirely new fuel system and even another transmission rebuild, and the off-idle stumble remained through all of it. Someone on dodgecharger.com suggested that the torque converter could be "too tight " for my application. I ended up getting a new one rated at 2500rpm and suddenly the off-idle stumble was gone. I think this torque converter is too loose: the car doesnt start moving until 1700 rpm, but I'll take that over the off idle stumble.

I'm just trying to say that the torque converter/transmission work can have an affect on driveability; it did on my car...

Great info, thanks! So I went with a 24-20-400Bal Hughes, with a stall around 2000. The other option I almost went with was the 24-25, 2500 stall. When you got the new converter did you step down from a higher stall to the 2500??

 

[AJ/FormS]

I noticed the car was dying right after the throttle fully opened and idle would get really slow. I shot some starter fluid in it and got it running again, then started playing with the idle screw increasing the idle when it seems like the car was stumbling. It kept running! It still needs dialed in but ran for 10 minutes without issues.

By the slowing-down, and then picking up with starter fluid, it seems pretty clear that it is an A/F problem. You're on to it.