brad 66
Well-Known Member
got it going thanks for all the help
charging problems
- Thread starter brad 66
- Start date
Well that's good, but it would be even better if you would described HOW you got it going / what the solution was for all that read these threads.
Maxrat
Well-Known Member
Yes, tell us all what ended up fixing it.
brad 66
Well-Known Member
i ran a new field wire to regulator ,changed the regulator again , and a new wire from regulator to bulkhead connector.
Did you forget the part about doing a few burnouts after getting it fixed?
Glad you got it fixed.. better yet, told what you did to fix it. Many threads wanting help with a problem rarely end with the person who started the thread reporting on what was done to resolve the problem. Thanks..
brad 66
Well-Known Member
sorry i angered people by not posting how i fixed . i do not know much about what i am doing and not sure what fixed it but in the future i will post what i done and am very thankful to all that helped
oldmangarth
Well-Known Member
Is there a reason why this diagram does not have the wiring for and include the voltage regulator? As I am looking at my charger and trying to troubleshoot why my battery isn't charging I see only 1 wire from alternator in this diagram. Should I assume the battery wire is the one missing and what is show is the field but without the regulator? Super novice so when I see phrases like "full field the alternator" I have to rely on pictures. Thanks.
TN Mopar
Well-Known Member
Because that is not a full wiring diagram. It is a diagram of making changes to one side of the amp gauge circuit
69Chargerdriver
Active Member
Good reminder in these posts for me to order a fire extinguisher for my Charger. Done. I bought the H3R 2.5 lb. red one with HalGuard, a clean extinguishing agent. It's been on my list for a year, no better time than now to buy it - go to https://www.h3rperformance.com/collections/auto-fire-extinguishers they are 20% off right now. I paid 213.56 instead of 274.99.
oldmangarth
Well-Known Member
Actually, the diagram I included was one without changes but ok, we'll assume you meant the next diagram. Good to know. So your response still left me with questions. Is the wire coming off the alternator in this non-full diagram the field wire?
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TN Mopar
Well-Known Member
No that diagram shows the battery wire and not the field wire
Thats why there is no regulator in that diagram
If you still have the stock Alternator and a stock regulater
you should have 12 volt ignition feed to one side of the Regulator (IGN)
and a wired going from the field terminal of the regulator to the field terminal of the Alternator
If you have a newer Alternator that has 2 field terminals you can run one wire to regulator field terminal and ground the second field terminal at the alternator
Or use a modern electronic regulator and run 2 field wires
skwatr
Member
This is an old thread, but probably the best one I have read on this topic! Well done gentleman. The fire extinguisher is critical. There is nothing worse than helplessly watching your beloved muscle car burn to the water line.
I have a pristine 69 charger R/T 440, Gauges never worked in my world. While trouble shooting and replacing the voltage reducer/regulator, I pulled the center bulkhead connector. burned and melted connectors mentioned in this post. its been weeks of work and waiting for parts. I am putting my cluster back in for the 4th time tonight. I am getting damn good at doing this job. note to self, fire extinguisher. non chemical!
I am selling the car so I put everything electrical back stock and increased black wire gage to a #10 from the alternator. If I was keeping it I would add an aircraft bulkhead connector next to the stock connector for the high amp circuit. I don't want to change any factory wiring, I replaced the entire bulkhead connector and re pinned every connection in it, both sides. The center one handles all the high amp draw. its a flawed design. new owner can make it the way he/she wants. its made it 54 years. Restoring it to factory original should be good for close to that? I did hate cutting good OEM connectors out and installing new lower quality new ones. They don't make them like they did back then.
I truly appreciate the time you mustache mopar guys have spent on this forum! Your sage advise has been invaluable to me.
I have a pristine 69 charger R/T 440, Gauges never worked in my world. While trouble shooting and replacing the voltage reducer/regulator, I pulled the center bulkhead connector. burned and melted connectors mentioned in this post. its been weeks of work and waiting for parts. I am putting my cluster back in for the 4th time tonight. I am getting damn good at doing this job. note to self, fire extinguisher. non chemical!
I am selling the car so I put everything electrical back stock and increased black wire gage to a #10 from the alternator. If I was keeping it I would add an aircraft bulkhead connector next to the stock connector for the high amp circuit. I don't want to change any factory wiring, I replaced the entire bulkhead connector and re pinned every connection in it, both sides. The center one handles all the high amp draw. its a flawed design. new owner can make it the way he/she wants. its made it 54 years. Restoring it to factory original should be good for close to that? I did hate cutting good OEM connectors out and installing new lower quality new ones. They don't make them like they did back then.
I truly appreciate the time you mustache mopar guys have spent on this forum! Your sage advise has been invaluable to me.
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