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frame mods

moparsquid

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
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Location
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was thinking of doing a front half and back half of 64 is there any one that makes kits that wont break the bank
 
Why front and back half? All you will do is end up spending a lot of money and end up with a heavy car. Sell the body as a roller and build a tube chassis with skin panels. Might even find a GM A or G body roller and cut the body off. Rebody it. Or just keep it the way it is.
Doug
 
Why front and back half? All you will do is end up spending a lot of money and end up with a heavy car. Sell the body as a roller and build a tube chassis with skin panels. Might even find a GM A or G body roller and cut the body off. Rebody it. Or just keep it the way it is.
Doug
thanks i appreciate all the good advice
 
was thinking of doing a front half and back half of 64 is there any one that makes kits that wont break the bank
what are you trying to do with the car ?

can get a kit basically by wheel base length
not a lot of stuff MoPar specific, especially for a full chassis

having someone else fab one for you is gonna' be pricey
no matter whom you chose

for lots of the components
---------------------------------------
Chris Alston Chassis Works
(they can help, call them, they ain't cheap **** either,
they have most everything you would need too
)

QA1 tubular front & back suspensions, shocks etc.
(I really like their stuff, I may be a tad bias)

SPC suspension, nice components, esp. UCA's

Gerst Tubular Suspension
(seems to accepted well by the MoPar community)

Chassis Engineering
(lots of different stuff there too, that universal & not make specific)

RJ Racecars , lots of prefabbed parts & tabs etc.
(Rickey Jones NHRA PS/Crew-chief guy, great pieces & components)

Swartz Performance
(full under-frame on unibody cars, not so sure about race stuff)

make you own center portion connect to the
front & rear aftermarket sub-frames
(or the whole deal for that matter)
----------------------------------------
& adapt to some of the aftermarket tubular K members
& sub-frames/front & rear sub-frame
or to the aftermarket premade front & rear suspensions components
----------------------------------------
bend up a roll-cage/roll bar & other interior cage parts

-----------------------------------------------------

my old 49 Ford Pro Gas was a tri-5 kit from, Chris Alston CW
the only thing Ford was the Org. Steel body
I had a bunch of different engine combos in it
including a 528cid Blown Inj. Milodon Hemi...
I just needed to move the bars or suspension mounting around a tad,
12pt cage (later a FC cage), engine & trans cross-member mounts back
or elephant ears & mid plate etc., most of which were in the kit form
or pieced together stuff, from Chris Alston's shop...
or someone else I had listed above
(Chris's shop was close, for about 10 of them years & I knew & raced with his old shop foreman)

On that drag car, wheel base was the most important part on that specific build
overall size of the pre-bent bars for the upper cage hoop
where the bends for the front & rear suspension component were
it was a 2" x 3" chassis, a bit heavier than a "real tube chassis"
It was intended to be a 8.50 car
(outdated by todays std., was good to 7.50 back then)

I had a Altered tube chassis car already

the "real" tube chassis tend to be better & a lot more $$$
& time fab/welding, quite a bit more complicated,
especially for a Novus, 1st time full "race chassis" build
(not very good, if you plan to street drive it ever either)

I've done or helped on quite a few complete tube chassis cars over the years
mostly late 80's round tube chassis
into Top Sportsman/Outlaw PS the early 90's to 2007-ish
stuff has really changed, there's a lot more prefabbed stuff available now...

It's not make specific
(not just MoPar, GM or Ford specific or foreign brand crap)
it's a whole different ballgame, with a "real tube chassis"
than a basic simple chassis &/or a tied together sub-frames style
Involves far more serious fab skills are needed, a good outline/plan & design
going into it...
An ability to MIG weld, fit pipe "tight", before welding,
all the assoc. equipment to do so
& even ability to TIG weld, mandatory in many cases

Many designs/parts or styles available
& many depending on how fast you are wanting to go ?
& what rules & racing sanctioning bodies ?
say about
"what you have to have for what ET & MPH"
I'd highly suggest to review a assoc. rule book 1st

IMO there's lots of different options,
& as many opinions too I'm sure
struts or coil-overs,
even factory style torsion bars, strut rods etc.
what kind of shocks will be used
where to mount stuff & why
anti-roll or sway bars
ladders or 4 link,
watts linkage or panhard rod or track bars
or even Torque arm/3 link & coil-overs
or even a leaf springs rear suspension

lots of ways to go

one style doesn't fit all

good luck in what you decide to go with
 
Last edited:
QA1 tubular front...suspension, shocks etc....SPC suspension, nice components, esp. UCA's
:thumbsup: :bananadance::moparsmiley: :thankyou:
If I had to do it again...and actually work on my Roadrunner doesn't start until next week, the entire front suspension and K-member all QA1 except for the UCAs which are SPC. I wanted more adjustability as that was the biggest complaint with the old school experienced front end/alignment mechanics: not enough adjustment to get the alignment perfect...well that WON'T be a problem with the SPCs!
Anyway, if I was buying parts from the start, the ONLY thing I'd do differently is I would consider the Bergman Auto Craft (one of our forum sponsors) version of the SPC UCAs.
Look at this post, there's a description of what the difference is between the SPC UCAs I bought and "the BAC version" of them.
At this point I'm going with the SPC UCAs I have had since 11/2018 waiting to be installed.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...uto-craft-introduction.185474/#post-911546868
 
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