TTI + Roadrace Pan + Exernal oiling = Problem

[Sascha]

Hello!
Today we checked fitment of the Headers with the oilline from the pan.
No chance with this.
I do not want to ding this header as much as nescessary.
I bought this 1 7/8 headers about 8 years ago new.
What to do with ist?
Rewelding the pipe?
Thanks for help!

 

[70chall440]

Yep, I would cut it off high and low and make a new pipe with a bend in it and weld it back in. If you cut it high enough you wont need a sharp bend. Before cutting I would go to an exhaust shop and ask to get a piece of 1 7/8" pipe bent or several with different degrees of bend, then take them home and see what you can make work.

 

[ruffcut]

Might try a low profile fitting. fittings are expensive, I know , but easier than cutting up a header. Ruffcut

 

[66 Sat]

Can't you alter the oil line instead?

 

[#41]

Cut off the oil bung and weld a 90' degree pipe and straight extension with and NTP end so that you can connect to to it with a straight fitting?

 

[5.7 hemi]

Cap the bung and weld a new forward of the old one. That’s the cheapest and easiest way to solve the problem.

 

[gkent]

This is mine - no clearance issues BUT I'm using Dougs headers.

 

[MOPOWER871]

In this mock-up are there header gaskets on the headers? can't tell , and is that a windage tray I see . I don't see gaskets .gaskets will bring the header out further and gaskets on the pan will bring the pan lower, unless it's a windage tray that does not require a gasket. To be honest I would just crease that tube many Studies have shown on back to back dyno test, creasing a tube shows no loss of horsepower or torque. there are plenty of videos on YouTube showing this. Good luck

 

[Sascha]

Hello!
Thanks to you all!
We tried with Remflex gasket but dosn´t fit.
In the pictures it is not possible to see the angle the header flange is at the head.
If I would bend or crease it it will have max. half of the diamter it has now.
Engine has main girdle and windage. For the moment I don´t want to remove the pan;)
Will look for a low profile fitting or weld in a new pipe I think.
Is there any fitting to go for?
@ Stanton: Do you have a picture with Header?
Again, thanks to you all!

 

[Derwud]

I am with Stanton, I have the same set-up with Doug's and have a little more clearance. I am running a 120 degree fitting.

 

[gkent]

Cap the bung and weld a new forward of the old one. That’s the cheapest and easiest way to solve the problem.

You realize that bung is the pickup, right ?!?!? Moving it to a new location means re-fabbing the whole pickup assembly as well as modifying baffles etc.. This is NOT and "easy" solution !!!

 

[gkent]

Photos with headers to follow shortly

 

[Derwud]

You realize that bung is the pickup, right ?!?!? Moving it to a new location means re-fabbing the whole pickup assembly as well as modifying baffles etc.. This is NOT and "easy" solution !!!

Thank you. Was going to say that..

 

[Sascha]

Great, thanks!

Photos with headers to follow shortly

 

[Mike67]

Just curious why you do not want to clearance the header if you're willing to cut it and weld it? Looks like it wouldnt need much.
I had to do my 2" Doug's on the passenger side for the torsion bar and mine are coated. Took a oxy/ac rig heated it up cherry red laid the wrist pin on it gave a few good hits and it looks like it was made that way. Nice radiused relief.

 

[Fran Blacker]

If dinging the header a 1/4" or so makes it work ding it. Been tests about dinged headers little or no loss in HP unless you really close a tube. MO.

 

[Sascha]

1/4 would not be enough.
Took a few more pictures.
Header is in correct position

 

[Fran Blacker]

No dinging that. What about sandwiching in a bare 3/8" header flange with a gasket on each side. Could cause fit problem else where. Not the best way to solve it.

 

[Sascha]

You mean a spacer?

 

[5.7 hemi]

Wasn’t aware that is a pick up point, thought it was a drain back.