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Holley EFI, Sniper or Stealth sniper

Wietse

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Hey all,

I am thinking to take the swap to EFI, i got most of it sorted out how i want to set it up, apart from my doubt in choosing between the Sniper and Stealth Sniper.
Apart from the difference in appearance, which is not my real concern i did read that the Sniper Stealth is easier to hook up the throttle and kick down linkage as it remains in a near same position compared with a normal carb.
Apparently the normal sniper unit is a fair bit wider and therefore require some modding on the throttle cable and linkage.
Down side of the Stealth Sniper (to me) is the duel fuel feed which requires another $60-120 assembly compared to a directly hooked up single fuel feed on the normal Sniper.
The Stealth comes around $100 more expensive, including this with the needed dual feed line it does turn out higher but i am not sure if it is worth the extra $$?

Both are good for 650 HP which is sufficient for my engine, but since the standard Sniper is a 800CFM and the Stealth flows at 870CFM.
Would there be any reasons to pick either one for a 440 engine?
My engine has a Hughes Engines HE3844BL cam which only gives about 7" vacuum at idle.
Currently using a Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold, which should work....although I've read different opinions about the Single plane/Dual plane story.

Anyone some good advice?
Thx for reading!
 
Also, the sniper has a built in regulator. I believe the stealth requires you to put one in.
 
Also, the sniper has a built in regulator. I believe the stealth requires you to put one in.

Yes, that is true, but I am planning on running a in-tank fuel pump with integrated FPR @ 58 psi, so i do not require a regulator anywhere else.
If i had to go with the normal sniper i can block the return line from the FPR on the unit.
 
I've been eyeballing the Stealth...I consider it worth the extra. They may perform the same but the Stealth is much better looking and as you mentioned, the wiring install will be much cleaner. Plumb it just like any double-pumper style carb. Yes, it needs an external regulator but honestly I'd rather be able to choose which type/brand regulator to install. I've been assured it can be mounted at the rear so the return line is not required to be run to the engine bay. I, too, have somewhat low idle vacuum though (avg 8") and even with my 112-LSA cam I'm not sure how well they will get along. That's the part I haven't dug very deep into--yet. As far as intakes, Andy F. has said to run the intake you would run with a carb. I don't know if there's a more trustworthy reference than him when it comes to Holley EFI on a Mopar.
Just my opinion, and I know it's more money, but I'd go Stealth all the way.
Honestly I'm just having a hard time letting go of carbs, I don't mind tuning and modifying them and get great performance out of mine...but I absolutely realize the benefits of an EFI setup. Especially around here where it might be 75 degrees for the morning coffee cruise, and 95 or 100 degrees for the afternoon blast. I can tell the difference in the way the car runs, as well as on the A/F meter. I drive my car a lot and the self-adjusting feature of EFI is what's most tempting...
 
I always end up regretting saving money on the cheaper one. Most people don't have that issue but I'm a sucker for anything upgraded or better.

Mind you I use to get the cheaper everything when I was younger and had less finances. My time for saving has ended.
 
I have the Sniper kit along with the Tanks Inc. Tank, Walbro 255 pump and Holley Dual Sync Dist.

I bought the kit when they were first released after sending my Fitech unit back. I dont have any experience with the Stealth but I can say that the upgrade was worth every penny. I also ran all new fuel line and did AN fittings front to back. Came out very clean. You will need some basic knowledge of tuning with a wide band to understand how to dial these in correctly.

I think you cant go wrong with either unit. EFI is so nice once its running properly.
 
Happy with Edelbrock Pro Flo 4. About 7k road miles. Untouched. Fuel a different story.
 
The difference that makes me most doubt is that it is 800CFM vs 870CFM, maybe this does not affect an EFI setup much, but like with a normal carb i was told not to go to big in CFM, as the bigger bore only reduces air velocity, and i need high velocity on my low vacuum engine to get a decent air/fuel mixture.

I don't want to end up with an EFI kit that does not work out on my engine, then again i believe the fuel atomization on an EFI is mainly taken care of by the injectors already and should not be affected as much if the CFM flow is a bit higher.
Currently i am driving with a 770 Street avenger.

By the looks of it it seems the Holley (20-7) throttle lever can be bolted on the Sniper linkage.
I read people saying that as the Sniper linkage is not progressive, it is hard to take off without chirping the tires...not sure if i would class it as a problem though. :D
Still some food for thought to get something in case it turns out to be more difficult to control.
 
I have the Sniper EFI, Hyper spark ignition and a performer manifold on the 440 in my 66 Charger. Also used an Aeromotive Stealth fuel tank. Throttle linkage was not a problem, I used the throttle stud off my Street Demon carb and an ARengineering raised kick down lever bracket. I don't see any problem with the Sniper linkage being nonprogressive, I can burn the tires or not, easy to modulate.
 
Dont think of the throttle control like a 4 barrel with mechanical secondaries. It takes off smooth but power is instant if you want it. If you are really worried about it they do make a kit to make the Sniper a progressive secondary system. It does require a fireware update in the computer though.

My only thing is the factory cable with the holley bracket and double springs is just way too stiff on the pedal. Switching it up to a throttle bracket made for the Sniper and an aftermarket throttle cable. That way I can do away with the double spring setup and hopefully lighten up the pedal stiffness.
 
Isn’t anything other than TBI multi port really just an electronic carb?
 
Hey all,

I am thinking to take the swap to EFI, i got most of it sorted out how i want to set it up, apart from my doubt in choosing between the Sniper and Stealth Sniper.
Apart from the difference in appearance, which is not my real concern i did read that the Sniper Stealth is easier to hook up the throttle and kick down linkage as it remains in a near same position compared with a normal carb.
Apparently the normal sniper unit is a fair bit wider and therefore require some modding on the throttle cable and linkage.
Down side of the Stealth Sniper (to me) is the duel fuel feed which requires another $60-120 assembly compared to a directly hooked up single fuel feed on the normal Sniper.
The Stealth comes around $100 more expensive, including this with the needed dual feed line it does turn out higher but i am not sure if it is worth the extra $$?

Both are good for 650 HP which is sufficient for my engine, but since the standard Sniper is a 800CFM and the Stealth flows at 870CFM.
Would there be any reasons to pick either one for a 440 engine?
My engine has a Hughes Engines HE3844BL cam which only gives about 7" vacuum at idle.
Currently using a Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold, which should work....although I've read different opinions about the Single plane/Dual plane story.

Anyone some good advice?
Thx for reading!

I've used them both and on a BB Mopar I'd use the Stealth. On a SB Mopar I might go with the regular Sniper. This is all based on where the cables come out of the Sniper. The Snipers can be sensitive to RF noise and if you end up with an RF problem it can drive you mad. So keeping the cables away from the distributor is a good idea. Having said that I just helped install a Stealth on a SBC engine and it worked just fine.

I like the dual inlet design on the Stealth but you have to budget extra money to buy a good dual inlet since the one that Holley sends with the kit doesn't even bolt on. Someone idiot at Holley designed it wrong and it doesn't fit. You can get a nice dual inlet kit from Summit for around $60 so add that to the list of stuff to buy.
 
Yes, that is true, but I am planning on running a in-tank fuel pump with integrated FPR @ 58 psi, so i do not require a regulator anywhere else.
If i had to go with the normal sniper i can block the return line from the FPR on the unit.

An in tank pump that is regulated inside the tank is a good move. Then you only need one high pressure line for the fuel. You can use the existing 5/16 or 3/8 hard line that is in the car without any problems. A 5/16 line is big enough to feed 600+ hp when the fuel pressure is 58 psi.
 
I like the dual inlet design on the Stealth but you have to budget extra money to buy a good dual inlet since the one that Holley sends with the kit doesn't even bolt on. Someone idiot at Holley designed it wrong and it doesn't fit. You can get a nice dual inlet kit from Summit for around $60 so add that to the list of stuff to buy.

Yeah, i did read that the duel feed hose that came with it does not fit...that's stupid.
How i understood is that Holley now does no longer include the feed hose and leaves buyers to sort it out themselves, i did see the Summit duel feed hose for $63 which will be good enough!

An in tank pump that is regulated inside the tank is a good move. Then you only need one high pressure line for the fuel. You can use the existing 5/16 or 3/8 hard line that is in the car without any problems. A 5/16 line is big enough to feed 600+ hp when the fuel pressure is 58 psi.

I am planning on removing all fuel lines (5/16") anyway and replace it with a 3/8" tube.
Then use braided hose with teflon core and adapters (and inline filter) to jump from tank to the hard pipe and another jumper hose from hard pipe to the throttle body.


Thanks all for sharing your experiences.
Looks like nobody had any serious installation issues, with regards of the throttle linkage i guess i will find a way to fabricate a new bracket if required.
 
You shouldn't need to do any fabrication work for the throttle bracket. I'm sure one of my brackets will work on the Stealth.

I already have the AR1071 and AR1060 on my setup as i am using an Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold, if the Sniper Stealth sticks around the same place for the linkage i should be good to go!
 
Just to catch up with the story, i got the Stealth Sniper installation finished today and had my first test drive with it!!
The first start up was still a drama though, after it fired up i had to rev it up manually a little to keep it going until it started to warm up.
After the EFI took over and managed to keep it going, with some fluctuation in idle speed.
Once above 160 Deg F i checked the IAC and it was showing 60-70% which was way too much so i opened the throttle a little more until it was hovering in the 6-10% range and it became quite stable.
Drivability is awesome, no hesitation or whatsoever...just go!
Cruising AFR is around 14.0 and all looks good.
Really happy with this kit, only disappointment is a minor fuel leak on the AN Tee-fitting that has a 1/8" NPT blind plug for installing a fuel pressure gauge.
The feed hose assembly is from Summit and looks decent, i will have to redo it with some teflon tape i guess.
Now used Loctite thread sealant which might not be fuel resistant.

With the AR Engineering brackets the throttle cable lined up perfect, only had to get some more tension after connecting as the throttle only opened up 65% but in the end went to 96%.
Think i still might have to play a little with the Wagner PCV valve and allow a little more air in through there and i can close the throttle again a bit more as it is over 1 full turn at the moment.

But damn, anyone still on the fence for EFI, just go for it man!
 
Glad it worked out!! Probably a bit more enjoyable to start and drive.

I just got my Sniper EFI driving yesterday and it seems very stable with instantaneous response.

Big reason I went Sniper over the Stealth was the built in regulator and the single fuel inlet. It was easy for me to plumb the lines.
 
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