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Need some help with a 426 hemi street build

Do you have rocker stands for your Hemi? I make the Purple ones
Thanks! A fine product indeed:thumbsup:

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I have the RBRE rocker system on mine with oilers. This Hemi post got me so excited. I went out and started mine last night. Yes, I know. I do need some serious help...lol.

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yep it sure is im using a thicker gasket to lower it to 11:1:lol:
 
Next question to you guys is do you use a stretch gage or the angle method for the rod bolts?
 
got a 6 quart hemi pan from rat rod Al
that needed work so i got it all ready
to go yesterday. Am thinking right that the factory 1/2” oil pickup contacts the bottom of the sump?
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3/8 off the bottom is the way to set them. I use a nut so I can tell depth.
 
Depends on the pickup. Factory pickup with the screen half covered touch the pan. Aftermarket with an uncovered screen needs clearance. Typically 1/4” to 3/8”. Swinging pickup needs clearance checked for the full sweep.
 
Depends on the pickup. Factory pickup with the screen half covered touch the pan. Aftermarket with an uncovered screen needs clearance. Typically 1/4” to 3/8”. Swinging pickup needs clearance checked for the full sweep.

Yes Sir factory pickup it’s stated in my above post. It does have the screen half covered and when it’s contacting the pan looks like the actual intake level is a 1/4”
up from there.
 
This was a running short block in it’s configuration and at a way higher compression than I’m gonna run I got all the specs on the pistons from diamond. This block has had .108 taken off the deck so to get the heads back up so an off the shelf intake will fit and get the compression down
I have chosen the .140 gasket thickness.

I street drove a 66 hemi satelite , and raced a 66- turned 67 belvedere for 14 yrs . Who in their right mind would cut a hemi deck down that far ? No reason , as the pistons and rods were available to do about anything a guy wanted .
I cut a set of pent/tent roof 13 to one pistons down in a lathe to street hemi specs , to be legal at the time , and ran a 785. lift cam dynamics roller in it . The street hemi in the satelite was a stock comp. engine , it would not run at the time on any pump gas that was below a 100 oct. , unless I backed the timing off far enough to kill it , why drive a hemi if u have to kill all the power ??


.140 gasket thickness is gonna cause preigniti
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on , I`m thinking----------
 
I think some of the approach is wrong when you take 12.5 to 1 pistons in a stroker that has piston CD to support the stroke but also the current block deck, then detune it buy adding really thick head gasket to get compression down. The quench will be much different.

You can mill the pistons to get a lower compression profile, then adjust deck height with a gasket, while retaining a better quench profile. Or find a set of pistons with lower profile.

I bought a package deal too. Standard bore that had been windowed and repaired, but damaged cylinder never fixed. So I had it bored .030 over to take care of the neglected block that had too much cylinder wall corrosion, new sleeve. Lined hone, a critical thing to make sure you get done with hemi's. Mine was not decked as much but my heads were in the 166-167cc range. I had had to mill them some to clean the surface for sealing and wound up around 165 to 166cc. All chambers not as even as you would expect if you cc all 8 chamber. Which I did. Had new bronze sleeves installed along with the valves.

I found a complete rotating assembly with ROSS 10.05 to 1 pistons stroked at 4.15. I had to deck the block slightly to square it, and again clean the surface for sealing. At that point I used head gasket thickness to correct compression, considering how much less I had in the heads. Build back to the deck spec for the pistons. I wound up using .080. (Piston spec used .40 head gasket) So I am right about 10.25 maybe a little higher. With sufficient piston to head and valve clearance. Racer Brown made me a SS-H-44 cam. I went Hydraulic for a street car. I Rebuilt almost all of the parts on this, and I tried to use original were possible distributor, fuel pump, water pump, oil pump, alternator etc...). Luckily I had access to the parts and did this under the guidance of a master builder with decades of experience. I did go the big block pulley and balance route. Otherwise your into a grand for parts if you do not have them. Ran great on the run stand, waiting for my modified Hemi K frame, before a transplant into a 70 road runner. One thing about this approach, I can incrementally raise the compression with a gasket change. .020 will yield about a 1/4 pt compression change, as long as clearance are ok which they are. Thick gaskets are expensive though.

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How much piston to head clearance w/ this set up ?
I ran 14 yrs w/ the pistons just shining the carbon off the sides, w/ steel rods. Tom Hoover SAID AT THE TIME , ''IT WAS JUST RIGHT !"
 
Yes Sir factory pickup it’s stated in my above post. It does have the screen half covered and when it’s contacting the pan looks like the actual intake level is a 1/4”
up from there.

My 1968 street hemi , factory pick up , did not touch the bottom of the pan !-----?
Tom Hoover advised 3/8'' clearance on a drag car, to stop vortexing , he said ,
a stock hemi oil pump would pump a qt. a second at 7000 rpm !
 
I would like to run a mechanical fuel pump on this engine anyone doing the same and have recommendations on which pump would supply the needed fuel?
 
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