• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Rototiller recommendation.

BLK 68 R/T

Well-Known Member
Local time
8:59 PM
Joined
Jan 10, 2016
Messages
1,966
Reaction score
4,329
Location
Dayton, WA
I’m in the market for a rototiller. Hoping to stay under $1500. Not opposed to looking at a used one if an older model is better.

Our garden is 30’ x 50’ and is just regular dirt. Not clay or sand. Been looking at rear tine tillers but have no idea what’s good.

I don’t want a Chinese or other 3rd world country produced one. Self propelled and something with a neutral option so it can be moved around easily is what I’m looking for.

Anyone have any recommendations?
 
Not an expert here but in my limited experience, rear tine is the way to go, especially for a plot of that size....self propelled is a must.
Good luck finding something not made in China unless you want to buy something very used.
 
Can't go wrong with Troy built. I should qualify that-I have owned a couple of older ones and they were great machines. I would like to believe nothing has changed and they are still good machines.
 
I rented one to do my back yard used it abused it then sent it on its way no storing it after.

My mom bought an elc one !
Funniest thing I've ever seen had a issue with crab grass.

Needless to say I went and rented one again for that job
 
Rear tine tillers are much easier to operate but, they command higher prices. If your in good shape a front tine will do the job. I've been gardening since 1978 and now have a Kubota compact tractor with 50" wide tiller but also have a rear tine Husky and a front tine Toro. We use the small ones for cultivating. Currently working a 10,000 sq. ft. area.
Mike
IMG_2087.JPG
 
older used troy built is the way to go for walk behinds, if you have a tractor with a pto and a 3 point hitch a land pride can be had for around 1500 they work amazing. I needed to buy some top soil for my yard redo after i put a new basement in under my old farmhouse, most of it was lost after the storm of that mess went thru being I live in an area with alot of sand. top soil would have been around 2k, found a land pride on craigslist for 1200 tilled up some ground in my back forty and used that instead. don't use it much but if you have a place to store it and buy it right they hold there value. and u can sell it in the early spring and get your money back, in a few years.
 
Last edited:
Troy-Built is owned by MTD which is well known for making junk.
Be careful buying their stuff because if the engine isn't a Briggs, chances are the engine is made by a Chinese subsidiary.
Also, many components can also be of Chinese origin.
BTW, Briggs&Stratton is now owned by an investment company.
 
Cub Cadet is another MTD brand.
Btw, I forgot to mention MTD is partially owned by Stanley Black&Decker.
 
Don't know anything about current Troybilt (mtd) but I have had a few Horse model Troys.
My current is a 7hp Horse with electric start. Tecumseh motor.
It is good up to 1/4 acre, for larger, look at a Gravely or riding tractor tiller.
I was doing 200 gardens every spring. Changed my oil every 3 hours, never had any problems.
An older Troy is fine. Just watch out, keep tines sharp and always wear boots while making sure you don't get in their way.
It's a heavy machine, so don't try to man handle it, rather dance with it as you let it grind out the 180's. Lift the tines using the weight of the motor to balance and exert a little pressure on one handle. It will spin in circles, but again, be mindful of those tines. After a dozen gardens one day, it was tired and brushed my boot. Cut that leather like it was nothing.
They will most often seep gear lube from all of the bushings, so don't let that scare you. Belts and tines are spendy, and I have found only factory parts fit. Wrong size belt and it either slips or doesn't release. Make sure the reverse is working and watch out, sometimes they will charge you like a mean dog.
When setting the main jet, I put the machine in deep already tilled dirt and walk beside is looking for just a hint of black exhaust. Don't turn the rpm's up, it does its thing with torque, not rpm's. In fact, rpm's are counter productive.

New garden: till north and south, then east to west. Go down in steps and let the machine do the work, don't worry if it hops and bucks. It will if there is sod, but gradually going deeper will grind it up. I add a little fertilizer to speed up decomposition.

In the Fall, I grind everything in, add some cow manure and plant oats or wheat. Let that grow through the Winter and Spring, then till it is for "green manure".

Late in June, I hoe the garden and put down 6 inches of straw around the plants. This chokes out weeds and hangs onto moisture. I till the straw into the garden in the Fall, by Spring, it's gone.
 
Appreciate all the info from everyone. I may just go the rental route this year.

Anyone used or have an older Craftsman tiller? There was one for sale local last fall that I missed out on. Just curious if they are any good?
 
A Troy has a gear driven transmission, with two belts between motor and trans. A Gravely has a clutch disc. The Troy belts last long time. Gravelys are expensive machines, but have a lot of attachments and are more of a commercial machine. Troys now have a PTO and a few attachments available.
I paid $300 for my Troy Horse at a sale two years ago. Troy Ponies are not meant for serious gardeners.
 
Cub Cadet is another MTD brand.
Btw, I forgot to mention MTD is partially owned by Stanley Black&Decker.
I know, and I hate Stanley/Black & Decker. They make horrific ****, but this tiller is OK.
 
I don't currently have a large garden, but I had approximately a 5,000 sq.ft garden for about 12 years in another state. I used my John Deere compact utility tractor (30 hP Yanmar diesel) and large Howard rotovator tiller.

A diesel compact utility tractor with a large tiller is definitely the way to go. Also, I used a rear tine walk behind cultivator to keep the area between rows "cleaned up".
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top